Super polished edges

Finally worked up the nerve to put a new edge on my CKF Morrf :o It came with a 25º secondary. I took it down to 20º with NO micro. Cuts like a red-hot razor blade. Making me re-think (always) adding a micro. It's thin & flat ground so I know that enhances its cutting ability...but geeeez, this thing is now an unbelievably sharp slicer. Probably the sharpest knife I own now. Virtually silent & almost no resistance doing S-cuts through phonebook paper. I might do some comparison cut tests between this & my Rockstead Higo. The difference in the Morrf post sharpening is that noticeable.

**Josh (@ razor-edge-knives)...and any other seasoned sharpeners, if you see this post with all this said, do you feel I'd receive any meaningful benefit by adding a 25º micro? (It's just a light use edc for me.)
(This Morrf 3.2 is S35VN, not M390 like the new, all ti 4.0)



**The more I work on it & with it, the smoother and snappier the action gets, the more I like it. :cool:
 
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Thanks chopsaki. I'm relieved it came out well. I was more nervous on this one than any other knife I've sharpened. I'm a hobbyist at sharpening and I really didn't want to mess this one up, such a pretty knife (IMHO).
 
do you feel I'd receive any meaningful benefit by adding a 25º micro? (It's just a light use edc for me.)[/B]
(This Morrf 3.2 is S35VN, not M390 like the new, all ti 4.0)

I have been using my pm2 S30V at 10 DPS that Josh did for me, i had requested no micro and i use it like I stole it, however I am quite careful with my cutting, I only do draw and slice cuts and avoid push cut or chop action. It has hold up well after 1 year, there are 2 tiny nicks (chips) that developed about half inch from the tip.

My intention was that once the blade develop edge chips I will micro bevel with my sharp maker at 15 dps and take the chip out, once the micro bevel becomes a visible edge say... 1/16 inch width, I will send it to Josh again to have 10 dps put on.

From my experiences in cutting performance, the thinner behind the edge the better the knife cuts even if they are at the same edge angle, by doing 15 dps micro, I have essentially match the stock bevel angle but it's night and day difference in cutting performance.

So far I am quite impressed with Josh's grind, I think a lot has to do with the fact that he uses water cooling so the blade retained its try heat treat from factory.

S35VN is similar to S30V, perhaps slightly better in edge retention so keep us posted, that's a sweet looking blade and the edge is just pure knife porn. Great job!
 
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Honed, great work man and beautiful pics!

**Josh (@ razor-edge-knives)...and any other seasoned sharpeners, if you see this post with all this said, do you feel I'd receive any meaningful benefit by adding a 25º micro? (It's just a light use edc for me.)
(This Morrf 3.2 is S35VN, not M390 like the new, all ti 4.0)

Hey Scrim great job!!! looks amazing! The way I see the advantages for microbevels are:

- It allows you to take an edge lower than you normally otherwise would. I will be pushing my Elmax ZT down to 8-10 dps this way, and then adding a micro at 15 for apex stability. You want to go as thin/low of an angle as possible w/ out compromising the strength/toughness of the edge to a noticeable degree. So ideally one would profile the edge to a lower and lower degree until, under magnification, they notice chips, denting, or edge rolling at which point they will begin to strengthen the edge w/ a microbevel that goes further into the edge than the damage that took place. Hope this makes sense, I will probably do a video on it at some point, but Cliff Stamp has one of the best videos about fine tuning the blade geometry for your intended uses (see below).
- It allows for very very quick touch ups at the micro-bevel degree, with only one "sit down" major reprofiling every so often.

Personally I think 20 dps is overkill for most knives and steels, you can likely take it much lower than that and then micro at 20° =)

[video=youtube;Hy23qeCL1s8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy23qeCL1s8[/video]
 
I've posted this pic before. I use my KO Worksharp on my knives and have been very very happy with the results. I get really nice mirror polishes and very sharp edges. No way I could do what you guys do with freehand. I am in awe of your skill and realize that the Worksharp gets me great results, but is also cheating to some degree.

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Just wanted to say thanks to the folks on this thread. This is is a very cool and useful thread IMHO. Lots of knowledge and good advice being shared. I am humbled by your insights, advice, great photography and very impressive edges. I raise my frosty mug of Stella to you all! :cool:
 
Personally I think 20 dps is overkill for most knives and steels, you can likely take it much lower than that and then micro at 20° =)

Totally agree, when I first got into knives I thought I needed a 20-25dps edge to be durable, as I wasn't great at sharpening either. Once I got a knife that had been reprofiled to 15dps and micro beveled it changed my views completely. Now I run almost everything at 15dps with a micro bevel, even my large choppers.

I've been reading lately on fb knife groups like spyderco, benchmade, and knife gods that most enthusiasts on there tend to lean to 20dps or greater on their folders and 25-30dps on their larger knives. I've had several tell me my knives won't ever hold up under use, like my edc blades a bk16 with 15dps with 18dps micro bevel and the s110v pm2 you sharpened for me. I just laugh as they'll never know the performance boost you gain after thinning your edge down.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to the folks on this thread. This is is a very cool and useful thread IMHO. Lots of knowledge and good advice being shared. I am humbled by your insights, advice, great photography and very impressive edges. I raise my frosty mug of Stella to you all! :cool:

Glad to help, and thanks for posting up your pics as well!


Totally agree, when I first got into knives I thought I needed a 20-25dps edge to be durable, as I wasn't great at sharpening either. Once I got a knife that had been reprofiled to 15dps and micro beveled it changed my views completely. Now I run almost everything at 15dps with a micro bevel, even my large choppers.

I've been reading lately on fb knife groups like spyderco, benchmade, and knife gods that most enthusiasts on there tend to lean to 20dps or greater on their folders and 25-30dps on their larger knives. I've had several tell me my knives won't ever hold up under use, like my edc blades a bk16 with 15dps with 18dps micro bevel and the s110v pm2 you sharpened for me. I just laugh as they'll never know the performance boost you gain after thinning your edge down.

Hope that pm2 is holding up well, I need to try out s110v and see how I like it! Yes, most will never push their knives to get max performance, but once you start down that rabbit hole, there's no going back ;)
 
Glad to help, and thanks for posting up your pics as well!




Hope that pm2 is holding up well, I need to try out s110v and see how I like it! Yes, most will never push their knives to get max performance, but once you start down that rabbit hole, there's no going back ;)
It's holding up great, loving s110v atleast now that the heavy work on the edge has been done lol. Been using it since I got it back cutting cardboard and vinyl graphics and will still cleanly slice phone book paper.
 
Howdy.. new here,

With discussion about angles, has anyone looked at what Rockstead come with? Curious.

Also, does anyone care to comment on the "marketing" on guided (I have WEPS) systems, and how they show the process. Getting a mirror edge is NOTHING like how they show the system in use. Not to mention two of my ceramic stones were terribly contaminated, and not even close to flat. They don't really represent how much work with the ceramics (WEPS doesn't anyway) is needed after the last diamond step to get the scratches out.
 
Howdy.. new here,

With discussion about angles, has anyone looked at what Rockstead come with? Curious.

Also, does anyone care to comment on the "marketing" on guided (I have WEPS) systems, and how they show the process. Getting a mirror edge is NOTHING like how they show the system in use. Not to mention two of my ceramic stones were terribly contaminated, and not even close to flat. They don't really represent how much work with the ceramics (WEPS doesn't anyway) is needed after the last diamond step to get the scratches out.

Welcome! I am not sure on Rocksteads... never sharpened one before.

Most marketing is designed to show the highlights of the systems... never the downfalls (can you blame them? lol). And most people want a razor sharp edge, not necessarily a mirrored edge. So they probably just hit the highlights of the system and call it a day. Whatever system a person chooses out there, they all have their downfalls. So that's what's great about forums is that you can get other enthusiast's opinions about the pros/cons of each system =) I have had the Edge Pro Apex, Edge Pro Professional, and Wicked Edge and out of all of them I like the Wicked Edge the best. Of course, I do mod mine into oblivion lol.
 
Welcome! I am not sure on Rocksteads... never sharpened one before.

I don't think anyone really sharpens those except Rockstead. Stropping maybe.

I have had the Edge Pro Apex, Edge Pro Professional, and Wicked Edge and out of all of them I like the Wicked Edge the best. Of course, I do mod mine into oblivion lol.

I would like to get set up to use abrasive sheet materials with my WEPS in addition to the factory stuff. I have the new style clamp.
 
Howdy.. new here,

With discussion about angles, has anyone looked at what Rockstead come with? Curious.

Also, does anyone care to comment on the "marketing" on guided (I have WEPS) systems, and how they show the process. Getting a mirror edge is NOTHING like how they show the system in use. Not to mention two of my ceramic stones were terribly contaminated, and not even close to flat. They don't really represent how much work with the ceramics (WEPS doesn't anyway) is needed after the last diamond step to get the scratches out.
Your not going to have a mirror edge using the ceramics alone after the diamonds ...but you have to spend the time on each grit until all the previous grits scratches are gone, then follow up with the strop and diamond paste progression after the ceramics.
 
Your not going to have a mirror edge using the ceramics alone after the diamonds ...but you have to spend the time on each grit until all the previous grits scratches are gone, then follow up with the strop and diamond paste progression after the ceramics.

Thanks, what I was getting at is the seller demonstrating their sharpener with a few strokes with each grit. When in fact after you switch from diamond to ceramic it can take a LOT of effort to remove the scratches. It's not a surprise to me. But I feel it's misleading a potential buyer with very little sharpening experience.
 
Thanks, what I was getting at is the seller demonstrating their sharpener with a few strokes with each grit. When in fact after you switch from diamond to ceramic it can take a LOT of effort to remove the scratches. It's not a surprise to me. But I feel it's misleading a potential buyer with very little sharpening experience.
Which ceramic do you have? I've heard guys use wet dry sand paper taped to the 1k paddle after the 1k to aide in the polishing.
 
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