Teaser for the Hammer Men

Nathan the Machinist said:
Yeah, I think so too. I have a great deal of respect for Tai and his artistic accomplishments. I'm not sure that all of us have developed the eye to appreciate the lines, proportion and flow that he achieves so effortlessly, but the collectors have noticed. But I think all of us recognize his forging skill.

Tai-Goo-Integral-Knord-001-4.jpg


I have always enjoyed looking at his work, and like many of you, I have been a bystander in some of the metallurgy threads he has "participated" in his own "special" way. For these two reasons I commissioned a thin W2 slicer from him. Because I wanted to own a "Goo" (and it is a beauty) and I was curious how good his HT actually was. Well, that simple knife has outperformed almost every knife I own in various tests. So, he may ruffle some feathers, but I have come to realize that he knows his stuff and I respect that. So I feel honored to work with him on a project because I feel he is truly a master at his craft.
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I gotta say, I Love the shape of that big cutter above!!!

When will see some of these hammer for sale?
 
Don, I'm hoping to have some to sell by the end of the year. I'll keep you posted though.

ASAP.
 
tai....or anyone else who wants to put there two cents in.....do u think this would be a good starting hammer?....or do u think u need alot more skill to forge with it?.....ryan
 
Ryan, it's a great hammer to start with or end with,... but it's going to be real close to 4 pounds. However, none of my students have ever had any real problems swinging a very similar hammer...

My DVD "Hot Forging Basics" does show some good techniques with similar hammers if you haven't seen it.
 
i gotta get a copy of that....i was gonna go over claude's houseto watch itthe other day but got caught up.....thanks for your opinion.....ryan
 
Tai Goo said:
Ryan, it's a great hammer to start with or end with,... but it's going to be real close to 4 pounds. However, none of my students have ever had any real problems swinging a very similar hammer..
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I can vouch for that--and I have noodle arms. :eek: :D
 
Tai Goo said:
Ryan, it's a great hammer to start with or end with,... but it's going to be real close to 4 pounds. However, none of my students have ever had any real problems swinging a very similar hammer...

My DVD "Hot Forging Basics" does show some good techniques with similar hammers if you haven't seen it.
Click to expand...


any plans for a 2 lb'er like a planishing or raising hammer?

I know I wouldn't mind the 4Lb version but I have taught a couple girls who have trouble with even a 1.5 Lb
 
Yes, I plan to make some lighter weight models. 2 pounds would be about the smallest.
 
Have you thought about price points ??? so we know how this is going to hit the pockect book?
 
I have to say Tai,
You're about the LAST guy I'd expect to be posting CAD models for a CNC project you're working on ...
:D;)


(That chopper is just inspired, BTW. Great work!)
 
I still have to be good for a few surprises in my old age, don't I? Keep folks guessing,... No one knows the real Tai Goo,... not even me. :)

Here’s a shot of the prototype, post heat treat and tumbling.

GetAttachment2-1.jpg
 
Tai Goo said:
I still have to be good for a few surprises in my old age, don't I? Keep folks guessing,... No one knows the real Tai Goo,... not even me. :)

Here’s a shot of the prototype, post heat treat and tumbling.

GetAttachment2-1.jpg
Click to expand...

I'd be glad to volunteer my services as a tester......

:D:D:D
 
Tai, looks great! The only thing is you might want to have the option of two different hardness. A harder one for more experienced smiths, and a softer one for new guys so they don't dent the hell out of their anvil. Just a thought.

I really like the look of that hammer, would you mind if I forged 1lb and 1.5lb models? Since you don't plan on having that size made.
 
O.K. Dan,
I'll test out the heat treat when I get it,... see what I think. It should be very tough. Nathan still has it. He took that pic.
 
I don't know about denting anvils, but with those "sharp" hammer-face edges, anyone less than an extremely proficient hammer swinger is going to being denting the hell out of their work. At least that will be so for me. :D
 
Phil, you can dress them and round them a little however you like. I'm just going to do the minimum dressing and finishing, because I figure you can always take a little more metal off, but you can't put it back on... and I'm trying to keep the cost competitive.

I might patina and highlight the form a bit. We'll see.

... Although, I do personally like a somewhat sharp face or nose... :)

One common mistake that many newbies (and even advanced smiths) make is that they are afraid to "dent" the steel.

"Denting the steel= moving the steel".

Trying to move the steel without denting it and strictly using broad flat faced hammers is inefficient and creates a lot more stress and shock to the steel and body.

Basically,... use the rectagular face for denting and the flat round face for working the dents out.
 
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Here's an example of what can be done with a sharp face/nose, the edge of the anvil, and a few other goodies...

nth1.jpg


The handle is from a piece of copper pipe... I used the sharp "corners" of the hammer faces a lot... just a series of very simple, well thought out and controlled,... "dents". :)

"Denting and scratching" is all there is to it! LOL :D
 
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