The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase

[ChazzyP]

These two have appeared here in the Den before, but the light was nice today for what seems the first time this year, so I took a couple more pics 'cause I could.

 

[anvil_den]

Nice 95, a_d, and good post for sure. What vintage is that knife?

The only Shiro I've picked up that was wicked sharp when I got it is my Tabargan and I just stropped that one some.

Paper it came with said 2012. ... when I consider the tang shape, it's a transitional... like many earlier Shiros it has a round tang. Hence the pivot area is slightly smaller and has the characteristic slightly stiffer detent like those earlier knives too. I saw your Tarbargan and thought it look familiar nice CF scales... almost got it for myself.


This Den is really feeling like a cozy corner to me now.. Ok see some "insides", I'll start...

Haven't done much with my 111MRBS. Did a tune up back then but wasn't satisfied. Recently look under a digital scope and stropped it a little.. Edge wise I am happy with the way it cuts and not gonna touch it too much. But last night I finally stripped it down again and worked on it. Just finished up an hr ago tuning to the way I want. Gotta say getting that 4" blade to drop slow like the rest of my Shiro this time took a lot more than usual for this one.

Clean up everything and started on polishing up the race track...

...almost there. Checking against some lighting

Clean, deburr and polishing on bearing cages...

Debated with myself on doing more on the lock side track and detent track after repacking the bearings.
Left those alone in the end for now.. Another round to tinker if still not satisfied after today.

While lubing up with my "secret formula" . The internal stop pin and track caught my attention this time... Pulled a "new" lube trick out of the bag and hoping things will go as anticipated. Chain wax rather than messy grease and oil on carbon fiber with the stop pin.. smooth the x-section of stop pin as well...

Ok... all in not too bad.. Will leave it alone for now...
[video=youtube;SbFs8-cFoWw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbFs8-cFoWw[/video]

last one on my instagram
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQFmRI3lPhO/

 

[coiledwire]

...

This Den is really feeling like a cozy corner to me now.. Ok see some "insides", I'll start...
...

Thank you for posting those photos, commentary, and video. I enjoy coming across this kind of material. The other day I had my F3 apart for a tuneup. I stopped when i had it fully apart and took a photo. Not sure why I did, but it looks like a relevant place to share it.

And since it's the bears den, there should be at least 1 more photo.

 

[ChazzyP]

Glad to see some tinkering and breakdown posts here. Mtneer had some way at the beginning, but mostly it's just been pics and comments along the way, which is fine too.

anvil_den and coiledwire, as you share my interest in tweaking and maintenance, maybe you could go back to post#280 on page 14 for a look at my issue with lock-stick on my F3 Python. I've received no responses on that one and perhaps you might have some thoughts to share as I haven't had that knife out much lately or tried to solve it.

 

[anvil_den]

coiledwire - that 95 in lay is one of my absolute fav CD ... love the milled-thru handles.
In fact I was raving so much about it to a friend-- ended up he bought one instead and till now I still don't have a single CD Shiro

ChazzyP - Read about your lock stick woe and I don't have an F3 on hand to play with and look closely. My only early lock up + "sticky" problem with Shiro has been ones like Neon and Dr Death, framelocks when new... after flipping for a while they went away. Only thing with those framelock compared with my F95 etc is that the handle and lock are thinner. On lock up-- you can push them in deeper and only then intermittently they may exhibit that lock stick problem now and then.. but I think that's because it's been forcibly jammed in and there is some minute compression on the ti more than a thicker handle would resist. In the same way I think a part of issue can arise due to thinner ti on a liner lock like an F3 while all of that is also in relation to lock face angle/ contact.

Can you push the lock inwards after lockup? Or do you see a later lock up if say u flip the tab hard?

 

[Bladegunner]

These two have appeared here in the Den before, but the light was nice today for what seems the first time this year, so I took a couple more pics 'cause I could.

Chazzy, What knot is that on those lanyards looks classy yet simple to tie?

 

[James Longstreet]

Two cf beauties:

Shiro 111 CF, 01

Shiro 111 CF, 02

Shiro 111 CF, 04

Shiro 111 CF, 05

Shiro F3 CF, 01

Shiro F3 CF, 02

Shiro F3 CF, 03

Shiro F3 CF, 05

Shiro F3 CF, 07

Shiro F3 CF, 08

Shiro F3 CF, 09

Shiro F3 CF, 10

Shiro F3 CF, 11

Shiro F3 CF, 12

 

[ChazzyP]

Chazzy, What knot is that on those lanyards looks classy yet simple to tie?

Those are snake knots, BG, and very easy to tie. I have quite a few like that. It's basically the Chris Reeve lanyard with bead, though I favor 550 cord over the 440 that comes with CRKs. Here's a link to a tutorial on tying that one.

 

[Thin-Slice]

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[Thin-Slice]

While lubing up with my "secret formula"

Curious what ur secret lube is


EDIT: also wanted to get some answer if possible from the Shiro bretheren here. Have a F3 and when i was cleaning it lost me a BALL and created a thread asking and ppl said 1.5 mm for the bearing balls. Can anyone plz confirm if they know for sure. I dont have calipers


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[Thin-Slice]

I sooooo wish they made a peoduction version of the ones below rather than the full custom. Cannot afford those

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[anvil_den]

Thin-Slice .. no secret actually but I mix it up accordingly when needed. Used to prep tune race bikes so specific greasing and lubing was somewhat of a "hobby" in itself for me.. I start with a base of that DuraAce Shimano luminous green bearing grease. The white bottle probably is a lithium based suspension which you can substitute with something else if you can't find.
Some knives I want a slower action and the concoction would be more viscous... so less of the micro zx1/ Eezox

Ya those custom with the signature duckfoot screws are what i call "Hen's Tooth" -- Unobtanium for most of us
That last tanto there-- its the prototype of the upcoming collab aka RFT (Russian Flipping Tanto) between Shiro and Brad Southard.. But there would be a 200 piece edition afterwards. I believe the official announcement will be soon ... don't quote me but direct $ if one can get it for I think would be $1.5K... judging from the trend of the past few collaboration models and materials involved.

Yup-- its 1.5mm balls. Measured it before and so did a few others I know of. Some replace with ceramic balls as well. But for the kind of application and ball size, I didn't bother with that kind of changes to my knives.

 

[Thin-Slice]

Tyvm for the info


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[Bladegunner]

got a new Neon ultralite due in Wed. The 95 T I picked up was just a tad big for me so the Neon's are my go to size. That 95 T is a great knife hate to give it up.

 

[ChazzyP]

ChazzyP - Read about your lock stick woe and I don't have an F3 on hand to play with and look closely. My only early lock up + "sticky" problem with Shiro has been ones like Neon and Dr Death, framelocks when new... after flipping for a while they went away. Only thing with those framelock compared with my F95 etc is that the handle and lock are thinner. On lock up-- you can push them in deeper and only then intermittently they may exhibit that lock stick problem now and then.. but I think that's because it's been forcibly jammed in and there is some minute compression on the ti more than a thicker handle would resist. In the same way I think a part of issue can arise due to thinner ti on a liner lock like an F3 while all of that is also in relation to lock face angle/ contact.

Can you push the lock inwards after lockup? Or do you see a later lock up if say u flip the tab hard?

Hey anvil_den--Here's a pic of the lock-up on my F3 Python. You can see how early it is. I can't move it further either forcibly or by flipping it extra hard. As early as it is it locks up really solidly, but I am not a big fan of this early lock-up mania and would rather it was substantially later. When I first got the knife it released almost effortlessly but after a few months of openings, it now makes quite the loud "crick" and takes a bit of force to release. My 111 and F95T release completely effortlessly and silently.

I'm half-tempted to take a diamond stone to the lock-bar but am leery of screwing it up. At this point I'm hoping that another thousand or so releases will wear it in further and the problem will go away.

 

[coiledwire]

Glad to see some tinkering and breakdown posts here. Mtneer had some way at the beginning, but mostly it's just been pics and comments along the way, which is fine too.

anvil_den and coiledwire, as you share my interest in tweaking and maintenance, maybe you could go back to post#280 on page 14 for a look at my issue with lock-stick on my F3 Python. I've received no responses on that one and perhaps you might have some thoughts to share as I haven't had that knife out much lately or tried to solve it.

I saw your post awhile back. It sounded like a mystery why the lock stick started out of the blue.

I don't think I can add anything past what advise Anvil offered. I'm just not sure it's a good idea to touch the lock face with any stones. Did the lock-stick change any after to put it back together again? I know you said it was still there, just wanted to know if it changed any. If it were me, I'd try taking it apart again before doing anything permanent.

The picture of your lock up isn't too bad. I've seen a shiro lock so early, you couldn't tell if touching the lock face.

Obligational Shiro pic. I feel the neon is one of the best small knives out there. Probably not $700 good, but really good.

 

[ChazzyP]

I'm just not sure it's a good idea to touch the lock face with any stones. Did the lock-stick change any after to put it back together again? I know you said it was still there, just wanted to know if it changed any. If it were me, I'd try taking it apart again before doing anything permanent.

I agree about hitting the lock-face with stones. There are many things I've been tempted to do in this world that have not come to fruition. Good thing too...

The sticking issue did not change at all after re-assembly. Looking at the lock-ramp again, I can see a clear demarcation where the lock-bar insert hits the ramp. I'm surprised to get stick as it's steel-on-steel. My Python is S30V and perhaps the insert is harder and is digging in a bit.

I think what I'll do is dis-assemble again, polish both surfaces, and de-burr where I can. I'll let y'all know how that works out.

Thanks for your thoughts and comments, guys.

PS: Nice comparison shot of the Neon, coiledwire. I've been so tempted by that knife, despite not being a small knife guy. I sold my small 21 because I had a hard time hanging on to it and didn't want that much tied up in an ill-fitting blade. The length and palm-swell on the Neon looks very appealing now. I've got a couple higher-enders I may put up for trade/sale and am looking at a Neon or maybe a large Inkosi natural Micarta. Those are temptations I likely will fall prey to.

 

[Nfd538]

Chazzy come see if you want a Neon.

Longstreet, that CF F3 is a thing of beauty.

 

[Cjwknives]

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[coiledwire]

I'm surprised to get stick as it's steel-on-steel. My Python is S30V and perhaps the insert is harder and is digging in a bit.

Believe it or not I've had 2 Shiros come to me brand new with a sticky lock. A neon ultra lite (S30V) and a 95T (M390). With this brand's reputation and price point any amount of lock-stick is hard for me to stomach. Since these were brand new, they got sent back to the workshop for repair.

Edit: sorry, forgot to add another pic.