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I've been thinking about it and agree. Gonna leave it the way it is.
It will be my "extra-super-duper-lockup-on-demand" feature when doing any heavy cutting.
-
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The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase
- Thread starter ChazzyP
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I've been thinking about it and agree. Gonna leave it the way it is.
It will be my "extra-super-duper-lockup-on-demand" feature when doing any heavy cutting.
Pompous
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If it bothers you later, I believe all you'd need is a fractionally larger diameter stop pin. Earlier the blade hits the stop pin, the less ability to push the lockbar over you should have at max lockup. Wouldn't be too bad to do yourself vs sending it back to russia for 6 months+ plus whatever the cost.
MacLaren1
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Hey fellas & ladies
Just received my first ever Shirogorov- an Ursus Quantium & I'm super impressed with her. Impeccable action & I really like how this Cromax PM steel sharpened up. It's really a very nice Stainelss Steel imo.
I really enjoy carrying & using this Quantium.
Just received my first ever Shirogorov- an Ursus Quantium & I'm super impressed with her. Impeccable action & I really like how this Cromax PM steel sharpened up. It's really a very nice Stainelss Steel imo.
I really enjoy carrying & using this Quantium.
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Let us know how the Cromax holds an edge. I'm eyeballing the Quantum/Quantiums that are available right now, but only have experience with M390.
Jetlau3111
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What’s the difference between the quantum and the quantium ?
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In the Ursus line, I believe the Quantum is SRB with no washers (races milled directly in the scales) and double-Ti with inlays. The Quantium is like a Hati. One composite scale, MRBS, and race washers.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong though.
Edited because of my confusion and wrongness.
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MacLaren1
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Will do.
I'm thinking it's gonna be very decent.
Gotta remember, m390 has a A LOT of Vanadium (4)- so it's gonna take something like s90v (9)or the like to even pass it.
But, so far I really like Cromax PM - as a matter of fact, if I were you I wouldn't hesitate getting a Quantium! Mine is just absolutely phenomenal so far & to be totally honest, only getting better as crazy as that might sound! Yeah, Shirogorov selected tye perfect steel to match m390 but, a lower level per se
It's a really nice Stainless Steel imo.
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Are you a month in yet? Both of my Shiros had a magical moment a few weeks in. I don't disassemble them (yet). I just add a thin oil with a needler into the action and a dab of CRK grease in the detent hole every week or so. My theory is that this mixes with the factory grease (or whatever lube they ship with) and when combined with the parts wearing in... it turns the action into one that feels very smooth and vault-like. Sorta like an old CRK Regular. It's awesome!Will do.
I'm thinking it's gonna be very decent.
Gotta remember, m390 has a A LOT of Vanadium (4)- so it's gonna take something like s90v (9)or the like to even pass it.
But, so far I really like Cromax PM - as a matter of fact, if I were you I wouldn't hesitate getting a Quantium! Mine is just absolutely phenomenal so far & to be totally honest, only getting better as crazy as that might sound! Yeah, Shirogorov selected tye perfect steel to match m390 but, a lower level per se
It's a really nice Stainless Steel imo.
MacLaren1
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Oh gosh no..not even two.weeks yet.
But, mine doesn't need a thing imo.
And, I'll probably never take it apart & have a million bearings going everywhere
(I'm too afraid to do that to be honest! 
)Nah, I'm just hoping she cruises right along.
Now, I would add a little oil & a little grease like your talking about if I feel she needs it.
But, seriously man, this action is just wonderful.
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F3s and Stellars just went up on R1
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New edge on my R18, cuts just like through buttah! The seller warned me it was not sharp, and the price reflected that, but I didn't want him to sharpen it as I didn't want it to get messed up. When it arrived it would not even cut skin. I had to start with 220 grit and reprofile the blade to 19-20 degrees, as it was more like 22-24 degrees. So it took a while to get through all the stones. Then after the final honing with the ceramic stone and stropping with green compound, it reflects light like a mirror and cuts like a scalpel (tested on food, not skin)...
[edited to add sentences missing from my dictation]
[edited to add sentences missing from my dictation]
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I had to edit to add about the other stones, because I dictated and somehow a lot got left out - I didn't just hone it, I reprofiled starting at 220 grit.
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Let us know how you like that angle. I reprofile almost everything at 18.5 DPS, but left my Hati at 21 to try the OEM geometry.
I'll bet that puppy is a slicing beast at 19-20.
Ilikesharpstuff
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Sorry for the shakiness in the video but figured I'd share since we're talking about edges. This is my old F95NL (Elmax) after setting the bevel to 17 degrees then adding a 20 degree micro bevel:
Pretty sure this Neon Zero has the same edge geometry on the M390:
Pretty sure this Neon Zero has the same edge geometry on the M390:
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What system did you use? And, how did you manage to avoid dinging the ricasso (if that's the right word)?
I see that
DocJekl
is using tape... but I'd think that one mistake will go through the tape. To be fair, I haven't tried it. I don't like the damage, but I'm also not willing to spend twice as long sharpening to avoid it. So far, going slower is the only "fix" that I've been able to think of.
Ilikesharpstuff
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What system did you use? And, how did you manage to avoid dinging the ricasso (if that's the right word)?
I see that
Set the bevel with a TsProf Blitz 360, micro bevel with a Sharpmaker. Usually fine or ultrafine rods for the micro bevel.
Both plunge grinds have small nicks, but nothing major. It takes a combination of extreme care and masking to not touch them at all. I've used painter's tape, kapton/polyimide tape, and Loctite Fun Tak to cover and protect the ricasso on various knives. The trick with any of them is building up a thick enough layer that you feel your stone bump it and stop the motion rather than just grinding right through or pushing them out of the way. If you use any type of lubricant on your stones, the tape won't stay put which is what led me to trying the Fun Tak. It works pretty well but is also very soft so while you can feel your stone hit it, you have to stop the motion pretty abruptly or you just push it out of the way. Still looking for the perfect solution and I'm not sure it exists other than sharpening the heel carefully and separately, then blending it with the rest of the edge.
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What system did you use? And, how did you manage to avoid dinging the ricasso (if that's the right word)?
I see that
View attachment 2469053
My F85 R18 was used, and it looked to be previously sharpened, as it already had marks on the ricasso and scale on one side. But I paid below market for it, being a well cared for but dull user knife. I don't want to say how much it was, but might reveal it if I had a couple of people tell me what they think one would be worth first. The marks in these photos are the only marks I see on the whole knife, other than even milder ones on the pocket clip edges.
My WorkSharp Precision Adjust is not as sturdy as I would like, being very slightly wiggly when holding the blade so the blade can move down as much as 1 degree when pressing down on the stones fairly hard, and the angles it displays are maybe off by 1 degree depending on how tall the blade is. In my case I had to set it for 19 degrees to get my iPhone to show 20 degrees (on a perfectly level surface) at the belly of the blade. not a big deal, as I would have ended up with 21 degrees on the belly and 20 at the tip if I set the worksharp for 20. Pressing down more on the belly gave me more like 19 degrees at the belly, but pressing lighter at the tip it stayed at 19 degrees but took much much longer to reprofile. Once I was on 400 grit and above I just used light pressure through 400, 600, 800, and ceramic.
However the Shiro seemed like it was previously cut at about 22 degrees on the belly of the blade, and about 24 degrees in the 1/2" closest to the tip. Someone probably freehand sharpened it at one point, and lifted the tail of the knife at the end of the stroke as they got close to the tip, instead of keep the edge laid back. I may do a 20 degree microbevel on the ceramic stones of my Spyderco sharpmaker, but right now the 19 degrees is so close I don't think it's worth it.
I can't imagine how much work it might have been to reprofile to 17 or 18 degrees without starting with free-hand diamond stones. As it was, I used 3 layers of masking tape on the ricasso and plunge grind, and managed to stay off of them during my time with it. It looked the same afterwards. But I also went slow and took my time to stay off the ricasso and plung grind.
Today I ordered a Professional version of the WorkSharp Precision Adjust, and I'll either sell my base model or give it to my son. I've only done 4 knives on it, and they all turned out great (this one, Benchmade Shootout, Herman Sting in Magnacut, and a Spartan Pallas).
Here is a picture I took from the side while the sharpmaker was set to 19 degrees at the belly, using iPhone as a level. You can see the gap where the edge bevel was greater than 20 degrees.
Here are pics of the tip midway through re-profiling it to 19 degrees. It's cool how the filings stacked themselves like on a magnet. As you look at the edge farther from the tip, you can see how the old edge bevel was above 19-20 degrees (like the microbevel was cut first by the last person who sharpened it).
