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- Jul 3, 2001
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- 6,135
No, that is a Model 12 with a 14 grind.
Thanks. I forgot that they offer that option.
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No, that is a Model 12 with a 14 grind.
So the Neeley SA9 was by some margin the best chopper, and yet narrow-bladed so not tall above the edge: No rolling tendency either (maybe the wood used just didn't have the coarse grain to cause this)... The performance of the smooth smaller diameter handle was key to this I think, combined with the full 1/4" blade thickness being carried quite close to the massively strong point. Other than that, considering the crap wire edge that became instantly dull, I'm quite stumped... With handle heavy balance, due to the undrilled solid steel pommel, and pathetic thick edge in very bad condition, it really defied comprehension, even after a few match-ups...: What will it do with a better more closed-angle edge that is not completely broken off as it folded?!?:
Gaston
Very interesting knife! Who makes it? (You do know some obscure hollow handle makers, I have to grant you that!)
I count 13 wood teeths and 6 clip ones: 19
What do you mean by "full round tang"?
Can you tell us what is the blade stock and knife weight? Anything that can make me forget my Neeley SA9 is good...
Gaston
Yes First Blood knives are fine, just point-light, so not as great choppers...
The Farid was the poorest chopper because of the design, but at least the 440C steel was good this time around (despite being the very same steel as the Neeley)...: Judging just by its visual damage from wood, I would even guess the Farid had the best edge-holding of all the knives tested: I could detect no damage at all after over 100 strokes on a very thin edge... The Cold Steel Trailmaster's VG-1 and Randall were next with no real visible damage, but some barely visible signs of "beginnings"...
The SA9 was a shocker... And I gave it two chances: This is what it looked like the first time around, it kind of looked like a wire edge crumbling, so I gave it the benefit of the doubt, even though I never allow any wire edges on my work...:
![]()
This is what it looked like the second time around, on another testing day, after full re-sharpening and only around 50-60 strokes: Even worse!
![]()
Let me remind you this is solely on wood and clean wood without bark on it, as you can see in the previous pictures...
This is a rotten shame, as it out-chopped everything, to my complete surprise... And the small diameter smooth cord wrap was the most correct for confort while chopping... The sheath was the best, the handle was the best, the sawback was the best, the blade was the strongest, the design was the best chopper, if the edge was made thinner... You can't argue it didn't try and deserve to be the best... Just sad...
I will try salvage something from this disaster (no question of me selling it): I'm thinking it that despite the missed steel heat-treat, it will make a sound demonstration of the strength of hollow handles in a Noss-type destruction test...
Still shaking my head over this one...
Gaston
On the downside, I just finally found the courage to test the sawback on the Neeley SA9... I could not believe it... the Neeley's SA9's saw goes 1/4" into the same 4" branch, not easily, and then stops...
the Neeley saw every third stroke "slips" and doesn't do any cutting...On the SA9 it is more the seeming inability of the design to dig beyond a certain depth... The Neeley saw acts like a series of razor blades slicing a thin slice of wood if you find the exact right angle... This is not aggressive or efficient in feel...
the SA9 being slightly worse due to the teeths "sliding", wasting effort, both stop at a miserable 1/4".
The SA9 was a shocker... And I gave it two chances: This is what it looked like the first time around, it kind of looked like a wire edge crumbling, so I gave it the benefit of the doubt, even though I never allow any wire edges on my work...This is a rotten shame, as it out-chopped everything, to my complete surprise... And the small diameter smooth cord wrap was the most correct for confort while chopping... The sheath was the best, the handle was the best, the sawback was the best, the blade was the strongest, the design was the best chopper, if the edge was made thinner... You can't argue it didn't try and deserve to be the best... Just sad...
I did some preliminary chopping tests with the Neeley SA9, and I have to say, unfortunately, that the edge penetration in wood, despite 3 months of reprofiling to nearly a third of the original angle (12-14° on a 1.5 mm edge base, from 35-40° plus originally), is just pitifully poor... This is worsened by the fact that the plunge line is a complicated radiused shape, not a straight plunge line, so I don't even know if many sharpeners could even tackle a full re-profile and do a neat job appropriate to the incredible workmanship the knife starts out with...
Despite its many incredibly good design qualities, the amazing sheath (best I've ever seen) and the inhuman precision of its grinding, sadly the Neeley SA series is something I would strongly advise against purchasing for actual use.
At this point, I truly believe youre beyond help. And ridiculous.
Also, deluded beyond belief about your skill and ability with knives. How in the world can you have the nerve to complain about the heat treat on Vaughn Neeleys knife? Have you tested it for hardness? If so, you may have a good point. Lets discuss that. If not
Surely you havent based all your ludicrous statements about the heat treat on that knife on the apparent edge damage the knife suffered after it looks like you have sharpened it into a straight razor? Have you? Part of me wants you to say yes, so I can laugh even more. But part of me is hoping there is yet another bizarre twist to this insane saga of yours.
I know already that you will have a long, looonnng nonsensical rebuttal to this post, just like the gibberish in THIS thread here, which was quite entertaining. But I had to say something about the lunacy of your attacks on Neeleys knife. You very clearly stated in this thread multiple times that you modified and thinned the edge drastically on that knife. Neeley very clearly designed the steel, heat treat, thickness and edge geometry to work as HE provided them. Start changing those factors around, and its on you.
Barring the possibility that the heat treat is off on that knife, (which Im not inclined to go with, given Neeleys experience and skill, although anything is certainly possible) the much more logical explanation is that you sharpened it too thin and beat the crap out of it.
How do you even know what all those factors need to be for optimal performance? Youve sharpened a bunch of your own knives? How many have you designed and made? You modified that knife (based on what Ive read in this thread) to suit your own liking. Fine. But you didnt design and make that knife, nor do you know its parameters and limitations. Well, at least now you presumably know the limitations of the edge.
Holy crap, go start a thread, or better yet write a book about your sharpening adventures, the advantages (???) of carrying large sheath knives inside the pants, and all the other things you have mastery over in life. Im sure it will go over with the same popularity of all your other voluminous posts. (Again, HERE.)
Best of luck.
As for your question about my Leviathon: the blade is D2 steel and is about 11.5" long and just under 1/4" thick at the spine!! I got itcwirh barely an edge on it. It was really hard to edge and sharpen, but now that it is sharp as hell, D2 steel claims it will Stay that way for a long time.
By full round tang, it is a full tang knife but the handle part has been shaped round. This gives people that love round handles and full tang knives the awesomness of Both Worlds!!
Yes First Blood knives are fine, just point-light, so not as great choppers...
The Farid was the poorest chopper because of the design, but at least the 440C steel was good this time around (despite being the very same steel as the Neeley)...: Judging just by its visual damage from wood, I would even guess the Farid had the best edge-holding of all the knives tested: I could detect no damage at all after over 100 strokes on a very thin edge... The Cold Steel Trailmaster's VG-1 and Randall were next with no real visible damage, but some barely visible signs of "beginnings"...
The SA9 was a shocker... And I gave it two chances: This is what it looked like the first time around, it kind of looked like a wire edge crumbling, so I gave it the benefit of the doubt, even though I never allow any wire edges on my work...:
![]()
This is what it looked like the second time around, on another testing day, after full re-sharpening and only around 50-60 strokes: Even worse!
![]()
Let me remind you this is solely on wood and clean wood without bark on it, as you can see in the previous pictures...
This is a rotten shame, as it out-chopped everything, to my complete surprise... And the small diameter smooth cord wrap was the most correct for confort while chopping... The sheath was the best, the handle was the best, the sawback was the best, the blade was the strongest, the design was the best chopper, if the edge was made thinner... You can't argue it didn't try and deserve to be the best... Just sad...
I will try salvage something from this disaster (no question of me selling it): I'm thinking it that despite the missed steel heat-treat, it will make a sound demonstration of the strength of hollow handles in a Noss-type destruction test...
Still shaking my head over this one...
Gaston
Gaston,
Your reviews are not even consistent. You negatively state several times that Neeley's sawback is disappointing...
:
If you had bothered to read my posts, you would know the Neeley saw doesn't work at all on objects over 2" in width, but works very well as soon as you get under 2".
I even mentionned that the performance you saw on 2X4s made sense in that context...
Me, if I was you, and I knew I had not read all the posts, I would not feel confident to make comments about obvious discrepancies without first checking...
Gaston
At this point, I truly believe youre beyond help. And ridiculous.
Also, deluded beyond belief about your skill and ability with knives. How in the world can you have the nerve to complain about the heat treat on Vaughn Neeleys knife? Have you tested it for hardness? If so, you may have a good point. Lets discuss that. If not
Surely you havent based all your ludicrous statements about the heat treat on that knife on the apparent edge damage the knife suffered after it looks like you have sharpened it into a straight razor? Have you? Part of me wants you to say yes, so I can laugh even more. But part of me is hoping there is yet another bizarre twist to this insane saga of yours.
I know already that you will have a long, looonnng nonsensical rebuttal to this post, just like the gibberish in THIS thread here, which was quite entertaining. But I had to say something about the lunacy of your attacks on Neeleys knife. You very clearly stated in this thread multiple times that you modified and thinned the edge drastically on that knife. Neeley very clearly designed the steel, heat treat, thickness and edge geometry to work as HE provided them. Start changing those factors around, and its on you.
Barring the possibility that the heat treat is off on that knife, (which Im not inclined to go with, given Neeleys experience and skill, although anything is certainly possible) the much more logical explanation is that you sharpened it too thin and beat the crap out of it.
If you are that serious about countering what I said, here is my offer: Tell me what address you want it sent to, and I will send you this piece of junk free of charge for you to keep forever