THE Hollow Handle Knife Thread

Well its original -low quality- black paint is already stripped off the blade...: If it makes you feel any better, I plan on Cerakoating it back to a full matte black, AFTER testing, so it will look exactly the same as it did originally... This will allow testing it while stripped, and then bringing it back to a like new appearance with a Cerakoat (the Cerakoat is a much better finish in every way)...

It also has no edge at all: About 90° inclusive... It would be kind of sad to leave it unsharpened... Sorry for the collectors but I want to see how it performs for a little while... It will end up looking like new afterwards anyway...

Gaston
 
Here's a few photos of the Lile, with the Cerakoated Chris Reeves Jereboam (a bit of a mistake that color, unfortunately), the Cerakoated Clinton dagger (that came out very well), and the now stripped Lile which was all black.

P9056415_zpsgn3dtbjw.jpg


My Lile has a slightly stouter point than at least one of two others "Mission" I found that display their spine online... That was a big relief as it was quite a gamble...

P9056418_zpsbg0sdd30.jpg


The first impression is that the knife is unnaturally light: 16.9 ounces (barely over half the 30 ounces of the similar size RJ Martin Blackbird!: Both share the same 1/4" stock, but a true flat grind does rob a huge amount of weight: Even so, the respective guards are probably the biggest difference): The Farid First Blood is likely much heavier, just because of its very heavy all steel pommel (aluminium pommel Lile FBs are around 16 ounces)... Because of that, and the more massive guard, the Farid conveys an impression greater quality, despite the fact the Lile "Mission" is much better balanced, with the center of balance 3/4" into the blade, versus 1/4" behind the guard on the Farid...

There are several good points to the construction of the Lile: Symmetry of the Lile clip bevels is almost flawless, the blade is dead straight, the top of the blade width is a true 0.249", vs 0.22" on the Farid. The Farid's clip bevels were symmetrical in taper from above, but not symmetrical in position on the blade sides... Best of all the Lile's main edge bevel shoulders were an excellent 0.028" wide, vs around 0.043" on the Farid, which has now been re-ground to 0.030" at RazorEdgeKnives. The Lile had barely any edge applied at all...: Just quickly ground bevels or around 40° per side, (80° inclusive...): At this price that is just a bit shocking...

There are other surprising bad points: The finish under the paint was very rough, with some strange localized flaws near the plunge line: This is the blade stripped and the rough sandblasting paste-polished to a sort of "stonewash":

P9056422_zpsr2gez0b0.jpg


The plunge line flaw has a similar counterpart on the other side: It appears to be a consequence of using a sort of "dual grinder", probably to speed up production (over 800 were made, unumbered, so this is actually not that rare a knife): Because it is near the plunge line, it doesn't bother me, but the rough sandblasting is just too crude for such a pricy knife, and mine will be Cerakoated back to black after testing...

The paint was much inferior in quality to what typically comes on a black painted knife today, and the blade finish underneath was very, very crude compared even to a $39 United Cutlery Karambit I have, which had a very crisp and precise appearance in comparison, plus a far more refined and durable black finish to top it off (edge thickness and overal geometry was far poorer though...).

The Lile took on a vicious edge fairly easily owing to its thin geometry: This makes it comparable in long-term field usefulness to Randalls, and objectively this alone makes it a more useful and durable knife in the field to any other large knife I have (except for the Randall Model 12), even including the magnificent RJ Martin "Blackbird", whose edge is a little thicker at 0.040".

P9056421_zpsjgpezhrl.jpg


The most unusual feature of this knife, to anyone used to everything else, is the fact that the clip takes up nearly half of the huge 10" blade: It is more surprising in person than in photos, because the blade is so long and broad...: This clip would be proportional to a 13-15" blade, so the overall size is actually disapointingly compact(!), but the biggest cost is in blade heft: It makes the blade feel cheap and light, and it also robs the sawback of some stroke length. To be fair to the knife, it doesn't really hurt its usefulness, and the large curves are elegantly done, which is often not the case on concave curvy clips, especially those on some Randalls, which look poor to me (I usually don't like concave curvy clips, and much prefer spear points or straight clips).

The split of the sawteeth is not quite perfectly centered, but straight: I think this feature is useless, and if it is going to be a problem to get it perfectly centered, it should not be done at all...

The handle wrap is extremely well done, and was still new-unfrayed. A very important point is that the guard is thinner, lighter and much more compact in feel than on the First Blood(!)... That does rob it of some heft... The sheath is simply first rate, with beautifully rounded edges, superior to many more recently made versions. It still looks almost new after about 30 years, thus aging far better than the brass sharpening rod, which had serious "greening"... Most importantly, the sheath is rigid and looks impervious to water, and yet it does not rub on the blade, while being fairly tight to it: I superglued a small leather piece below the snap strap, to tighten tension over the guard: This prevents any residual motion of the knife inside the sheath.

I never found this knife as elegant as the First Blood, and in person that impression is confirmed: The Farid looked "right" in person. Here the oversized clip seems a bit designed to impress the camera quite frankly... Yet, despite this, I am sure "The Mission" is actually a better more useful Survival Knife, providing you don't get a clip that is ground too thin...: Testing will determine how well it chops before I sent it to Josh for a return to its original color (with much better paint!)... If it chops much below my Randall Model 12 I would be very disappointed...

Gaston
 
Last edited:
Great review, Gaston. I enjoyed reading it. In the photos, the current blade finish on the Lile really doesn't look bad at all. I assume Lile left it "rough" underneath so the black paint would adhere better. Will Josh be able to refinish the guard so the blade and guard have the same paint?

Also, the Clinton dagger looks fantastic! Much better than the original finish. That knife needed a tougher look. Well done! :thumbup:
 
Yes the Clinton came back just beautiful...: The now matching guard color is a huge plus for me...: It actually looks much classier than the original finish to my eyes...:)

One thing with Cerakoating is try to go with a finish with metallic "speckles" in it: The effect is very subtle on both the "Burnt Bronze" of my Model 18, and the "Titanium Gray (?)" of my Clinton: Because of the very subtle slight "unevenness" to the speckled color (there is no metallic shine actually: Just a very refined-looking uneveness), it seems to withstand contact wear much better and to cover up any flaw from use... The straight unspeckled green of the Chris Reeves seemed to take "marks" from chopping more readily, even though it is just as tough: Solid colors are more prone to showing imperfections... Unfortunately there is no "speckled black", so the Lile will be a solid color: Just like the Clinton was done, the handle will be masked off behind the guard and so the guard will be covered in black as well: I think flat black makes the most sense for the Lile, though I considered the Cinton or Model 18 color on it: With the Reeves repainted, I have no other all black knife, so it fits well in my collection, and is closer to the "original" condition anyway...

The Lile's naked finish looks better on the photos than in person, but the clip grinds are indeed very tightly symmetrical: Even if that was tool-achieved, I'd rather have that than sloppiness... On the other hand, note the strong swelling "wave" near the plunge line: It gives it a bit of a mid-price mass-produced feel to it...: The good thing is the wave's "swell" is extra material, not material substracted, so it doesn't weaken the blade: On the better side, I can't say enough how much I appreciate that the knife doesn't undershoot its quoted "target" thickness of 1/4", as that annoys me no end (anything under 0.24" would have been very annoying)... The sufficiently stout point is nothing compared to a Neeley, which must be several times stronger, but when the sides are eveny "swelled" outward, that is also a big plus, as it inspire confidence the knife was not "overground": Nothing is worse than a point that looks like two needle-like tapering straight lines, or worse yet, one of those two lines being concave...

Gaston
 
Last edited:
I think it's a good idea to go with a flat black on the Lile and keep it as close to the original as possible. As for blade thicknesses, it really comes down to stock removal vs. forged. As you know, Lile and Neeley are stock removal. Randall is forged, which usually ends up under quoted thickness after all of the pounding and extra polishing.
 
Yes but somehow the Clinton dagger remained a full 0.25" throughout, while the Model 12 is 0.22"...

I've just tested the Rambo Mission today, and it chops incredibly well...: About 20% or even 30% better than even the Randall Model 12 (!)... The somewhere below 15° per side edge held up well with absolutely no damage, but after 80 strokes it would not slice phonebook paper cleanly anymore...: To be fair, that was on par with the Trailmaster and the Model 12 as well: They all would not slice phonebook paper after around 80 strokes, so it was about even for all of them...

I was astounded by the Mission's chopping performance...: It made incredibly deep bites, and also made a strange "tink" sound like it was a dime store machete... It sounded like it was breaking each time it hit, but it didn't, so I got used to it...: It think the width and thinness of the blade make it sound like tin...

The wood I used had no heavy grain in it, so the round handle would not roll and was perfect... I have a feeling it bites so deep, even with a heavy wood grain it would not have rolled...

For some reason I cannot get the Trailmaster to perform now... The best it did previously was 80-90% of the Model 12, but now, despite good sharpness, I cannot get above 60% of the 12, so despite its much heftier-feeling blade, it can't even get half the depth of the Rambo Mission (after 35 strokes each)...: The difference is just huge...

The Mission saw did well too, and way better than the Neeley saw on over 2" diameter limbs: It went about 5/8" vs 1/4" for the Neeley (the First Blood did only about 2/3rds or 1/2 as well as Neeley below 2" stuff...: On thinner stuff, the Neeley goes over 1" and maybe all the way...). The huge clip does cut a little on the Mission's useful saw stroke...

I've also found an interesting phenomenon in that when a knive fails to bite deeply, the tendency is to spread the strikes, because hitting into a previous strike "pinches" the blade gradually, and robs too much depth, so the tendency is to laterally "wrench" chunks out by spreading the hits, then having a wider area to keep spreading the hits on the next (lower) level... I'll go more "in depth" on that later...

I would say the "Mission" chops easily twice as well as the First Blood, and maybe a little more, but that was with the Farid with a 0.22" stock on a 0.043" edge, vs the "Mission" at 0.25" stock on a 0.028" edge: Not an even comparison by far (the Farid has been thinned to 0.030" now)...

Today I was pressed for time and forgot to test the Chris Reeves Jereboam, which is too bad as there is a lot to say about the design and what the Mission's performance revealed to me...

I'll post pictures, and do some more detailed "ranking musings" later on...

Gaston
 
Last edited:
The split teeth tend to saw better because you don't have a .25inch thick tooth trying to rip through the wood. So thats why the split teeth. A question about your sharpening, what are you using that is so abrasive? Can you go with a finer stone and then strop those edges on leather, they will hold an edge longer if you do.
 
I use an Extra-Coarse 6"X 2" Dia-Sharp, mounted on a prominent stand, for closing down the angle with as flat sides as possible, then a similar Coarse Dia-Sharp which is worn, so it is basically "fine" by my reckoning...

I find anything finer than that tends to take the flat V sides out of flat... There's only so much fine motion control a free hand can do, so a worn Coarse will eat a whole flat V-side evenly, but is nearing too gentle to "get" the whole surface into one "true flat" with just a few strokes...

Too many strokes to "flatten" the surface, and inevitably the V's side will be out of a true "flat": They will begin to "round off" after twenty or thirty strokes, due to the hand's natural imprecision over too many strokes...

Because of the difficulty of maintaining the same angle throughout too many strokes, for the "base" initial work I try to stroke as parallel to the edge as possible with Extra-Coarse, because, during the stroking motion, "rocking" from side to side is easier to elliminate than "rocking" from back and forth...: One problem however with this lengthwise motion method is "getting" deep into near the ricasso: I can't because the motion is stopped too soon by the ricasso...

So initially the striations are parallel to the edge, then I shift to "coarse" or worn "Coarse" with a more diagonal motion, which makes finer diagonal striations (you can see the diagonal striations on the Lile's edge).

Then I check very carefully for a wire edge by sliding the nail upside down, side to side, so that any microscopic metal curl will "grab" some material from my nail on one side: I do this repeatedly throughout the sharpening: When a big amount of nail material is "grabbed", I rub the edge very gently at 70-90° (!) on a "medium" stone I have, to make sure to break the wire edge where that is needed, then final polishing is done on that same "medium" stone, usually making a nearly invisible final micro-bevel at the tip of the coarser diamond-made flat surface...

I have to say that despite my edges not being highly polished, they are far, far more aggressive than anything I have seen elsewhere (except for a full convex "zero" edge that Josh did on my Wall, but even that does not perform much better because of the curvature, and it is excessively thin and fragile near the apex)...

With professional sharpener edges, I find they are either too open (at 15° per side), because the guided sharpeners limit what they can do near the point (which is why I do this free hand), or they are too highly polished, which then gives them poor aggressivity: That is easily fixed by just "roughing up" the edge with a diamond hone.

It is perhaps true a polished edge may last longer, but, like 15° per side edges, I find they lack so much in aggressivity I never bothered checking this...: It seems to me stropping would take the flat side of the V edge out of a true flat: At least a stone-applied micro-bevel is itself a "true flat"...

In the case of my Neeley's SA9 edge trouble, it seems my "Extra-Coarse" parallel striations were not enough "smothered" by the diagonal "Worn-Coarse" work: The paralell lines still dominated, which may have made the edge more fragile...: It happens...

On the Lile "Mission", my hand-applied edge came out really well (as it did on my RJ Martin Blackbird), and the performance was extremely good, yet durable... It is off to get Cerakoated black... Today someone posted another all-black Lile "Mission" on Ebay, identical to mine, and it is said to be among the first 25 made (with some supporting papers): Asking price is $8000, for a knife and sheath in way rougher shape than mine were... I'm thinking I got a great deal at $1770...

I'll post pics of the "Mission" chopping test soon, but photobucket is so slow these days it will take me a while to get down to it...

Gaston
 
Last edited:
Been pretty busy lately, so haven't had much time to post a lot. But I thought I would post pics of a recently completed SAFE knife. The customer requested a more "tactical" look, so this is what I did. There is a little more upsweep to the blade, added a false edge, and the blasted finish. I am very pleased with how it came out, and the customer is even more so. Let me know what you think.

105_2622_zps2hdu9f5d.jpg


105_2618_zpsxfi5wh3q.jpg


105_2626_zpsast2u1st.jpg


105_2631_zpsbw1qoevi.jpg


Thank you,

Sam Wilson :thumbup:
 
Looks great, Sam. I like the modified blade shape. Very nice solder job as well. Curious, can you strike a fire steel with the blasted finish?
 
Looks great, Sam. I like the modified blade shape. Very nice solder job as well. Curious, can you strike a fire steel with the blasted finish?

Thank you, Tom. I would have thought it was the opposite, but the blasted finish highlights any mistakes with the silver solder, not hides it. It keeps me honest, lol. And yes, the blasted finish will strike the fire steel. So far, so good.

Thank you,
Sam
 
Been pretty busy lately, so haven't had much time to post a lot. But I thought I would post pics of a recently completed SAFE knife. The customer requested a more "tactical" look, so this is what I did. There is a little more upsweep to the blade, added a false edge, and the blasted finish. I am very pleased with how it came out, and the customer is even more so. Let me know what you think.

105_2622_zps2hdu9f5d.jpg



Thank you,

Sam Wilson :thumbup:
What a beauty. I like it, I like it a lot!
 
Very nice small knife! There is only one thing I find peculiar: The counter-sinking of the wrapping at the rear is a fairly broad surface: Is there a reason for doing it that wide?

The radiusing of the guard's soldering is superb. Good work!

Here is a few shots of my testing the Lile "Mission": This was on a fairly thin diameter branch of under 4", 19 strokes for all:

P9076463_zpssywvejni.jpg


I just cannot get the Trailmaster to perform anymore, yet it keeps its edge as well as the others: I find the convexing is so accentuated, it simply makes the blade cross-section a little fat. I remember the Aus-8 Trailmaster I had in the early 1990s as being a somewhat thinner convex than that... I can't swear to it but... They all push-cut phonebook paper initially, throughout the edge.

You'll notice the Trailmaster has more widely spaced hits: I find this is a natural tendency, when the hits lack a bit of depth, to spread them laterally, to get chunks out "sideways" to make a broader "lower level" to work on. The thinner the geometry, the easier it seems to make a narrow V and keep progressing within that narrow V. Also, on a blade that feels "fat", you sense you can't afford to hit inside a previous strike, because the blade will then be "grasped" and decelerated gradually, while a thinner blade will sail through a previous cut and still hit the bottom hard inside that previous strike... This encourages a narrower concentration of hits, so the result should not be considered biased because of you can see some have more spread...: It is a result of the performance, not a cause...

I do think it is possible to go a little harder on the Trailmaster, but the thick abruptly decelerating blade, coupled with the much too thin handle, combines to make it kind of a little scary...

The "Mission" performed way better than I expected, with its feather light point: That light point was mitigated by hitting fairly close to the guard. It made a peculiar "tink" "tink" noise completely unlike any other chopper I ever tried... It feels like a feather, and must undoubtedly perform by the finesse of its geometry alone (0.028")... It may be the absolute best chopping knife I have seen so far, only the Neeley SA9 being inexplicably close... The SA9 does have something like a four-five times thicker point 1/4" from the tip than the "Mission", but not any extra mass over the wider, thicker bladed and better profiled Trailmaster...: The SA9 geometry is way worse than the Trailmaster, but I think the key issue here is the use of a hollow grind, even if a thick one, combined with my heavily reprofiled 16° or therabouts edge: The hollow grind simply leaves the edge "free" to go deep, while the convexing swells and slows down the Trailmaster...

That does not explain why the hollow grind Chris Reeves seems to feel hampered in a similar way to the Trailmaster... An interesting note is that on 3 inch diameter or less, the Chris Reeves and Trailmaster seem closer to the Randall Model 12: With less wood to decelerate them, their thick blade mass seems to overcome the wood, but maybe the wobblier branch just evens up all the knives...

Below is on a thicker log with 35 strokes each, if I'm not misremembering... The grinding flaw on the Mission's plunge line shows up really well here...: Quite pronounced, and it looks like a kind of "machine rig"-related thing (it is caused by the presence of the sawteeth being already cut), so that could have been fixed easily on later blades: I think this is either quite an early unumbered one, or they simply counted on the black paint to hide it...: It doesn't bother me, but it is worth mentionning for the price...: An apparently documented first 25 black blade also has a slight hint of the same thing, but not that bad... $8000 on Ebay... I've never seen this flaw on any of the others... No serial numbers anyway so...

P9076439_zpsoe3oru47.jpg


The Trailmaster's cut is tilted, so it looks much deeper than it actually is...

The "Mission" saw works quite well, hard to say if any better than the Farid's, but it seemed truly effortless until it stopped at about 5/8" or more on this 3" log. On the same log the Neeley saw would stop in less than 1/4", but try a log under 2" in diameter and all of a sudden it goes over 1.25" or maybe even all the way, but by then the weakening wood "pinches" the sawing, and stops things anyway... I didn't test the "Mission" saw on something smaller, as I was pressed for time: The huge clip shortens and impedes the stroke motion, but not overly so.

P9076435_zpsbqhek3q7.jpg


I wanted to mention the Chris Reeves, as it is a favorite of many, and this time it had been re-profiled by RazorEdgeKnives to under around 15°, so the performance should have been better than before... Initially the edge took a lot of bending damage very easily, but when I re-sharpened it, same angle, and for some reason that did not re-occur... The claim I made of visibly low edge-holding no longer appeared to be obviously correct... I would no longer trust my initial assesment of the Neeley SA9 edge after that either, but this time for the CR it was a professionally applied edge that buckled, and it was my work that solved the "issue", whatever "it" was... A fickle business if you ask me, since that initial CR edge was hand-applied and flawless, while my non-buckling edge edge looks much scratchier and is probably a bit more thinned-down in angle...

Chopping performance for the CR remained low throughout, and very similar to the Trailmaster in that a narrower 2-3" limb that wobbled, seeming to bring it level to the Model 12: That bigger branch below is truly rigid, and gives a better view of its actual performance...:

P9086470_zpshb2wo6ez.jpg


So far for chopping I would rank them in categories: Top: Lile Mission, Neeley SA9 (but with a heavy, heavy edge reprofile)

Just a touch below would be the Randall Model 12: It would do better if there was not some slight "convexing" fattening above the V-edge, something I've never seen on any Model 14 or 18...: It is well done and intentional, and not limited to mine...

Well below that, but still good, would be the Trailmaster, Chris reeves Jereboam, Re-profiled TOPS Hellion, Wall FB, Al Mar "Special Warfare" and many others.

At the bottom would be the Randall Model 18 and the Farid "First Blood"... Note the Randall did a little better while chopping than the Farid, owing to a 0.020" edge versus a 0.043" edge on the Farid (which is now 0.030", maybe not to be tested), but they were both equally bad in "pommel down bite", which is actually the main reason they sit in another category to those immediately above...: The balance point is similarly 1/4" behind the guard on both, but note the Farid has a hugely heavy steel buttcap, and so is not quite representative of a Lile... I actually like the Farid buttcap, quite frankly, as Liles have this "feathery" feel to them that is a bit disconcerting... But it certainly doesn't help chopping much...

Overall chopping performance seems consistent, but hard to predict in advance with theory...: I thought the Neeley would rank among the lowest...

Gaston
 
Last edited:
Very nice small knife! There is only one thing I find peculiar: The counter-sinking of the wrapping at the rear is a fairly broad surface: Is there a reason for doing it that wide?

The radiusing of the guard's soldering is superb. Good work!


Gaston

Thank you, Gaston. As far as the "counter-sinking surface," I think you are referring to the cord ring? If so, the reason for it being the size it is is simply personal preference on my part. It has two primary functions: the first is to capture the cord and prevent it from moving/sliding down the handle or coming undone. The second is to extend beyond the end of the handle a little, and provide a protective hood to shield the O-ring from getting beat up/cut during use. A third, purely aesthetic function is that it provides visual flow from the handle to the buttcap. I hope that makes sense.

Thank you for the compliments about the silver solder. It is one of my favorite parts, as I think it gives the knife a little class. I would like to recommend that you start a thread on these posts with pictures and summaries of the performance of the knives. You're using knives that most will never hold, much less use. The nature of a long and winding thread like this is that the information is going to get buried in time and is difficult to skim through due to the size of it. It's up to you, but it will make it easier to reference the info and pics and follow along with it. Either way, nice pics and knives.

Sam :thumbup:
 
I would like to recommend that you start a thread on these posts with pictures and summaries of the performance of the knives. You're using knives that most will never hold, much less use. The nature of a long and winding thread like this is that the information is going to get buried in time and is difficult to skim through due to the size of it. It's up to you, but it will make it easier to reference the info and pics and follow along with it. Either way, nice pics and knives.

Sam :thumbup:

I was thinking of doing just that, since the main part of what I wanted to test is now done. On that other specific thread I might add some batoning and more detailed sawback use, whittling and edge-holding comments... I might even reserve a few specific hollow handles for extreme torture testing, since that seems to be one of the issues that keeps them from being more popular...

The funny thing about batoning is I am convinced that sawbacks, by biting into the baton when hit, are actually absorbing the impact, and this makes them the kind of blades least likely to break under batoning...: I am on the fence about the actual value of batoning, but it would be neat to actually demonstrate that...

I just won the auction on this: It wasn't part of my plan at all, and I know it chops poorly, but with an $1160 winning bid, how could I pass on it? The owner told me he paid $2800 two years ago... Ebay is hard to beat...

$_57.JPG


Gaston
 
I was thinking of doing just that, since the main part of what I wanted to test is now done. On that other specific thread I might add some batoning and more detailed sawback use, whittling and edge-holding comments... I might even reserve a few specific hollow handles for extreme torture testing, since that seems to be one of the issues that keeps them from being more popular...

The funny thing about batoning is I am convinced that sawbacks, by biting into the baton when hit, are actually absorbing the impact, and this makes them the kind of blades least likely to break under batoning...: I am on the fence about the actual value of batoning, but it would be neat to actually demonstrate that...

I just won the auction on this: It wasn't part of my plan at all, and I know it chops poorly, but with an $1160 winning bid, how could I pass on it? The owner told me he paid $2800 two years ago... Ebay is hard to beat...

$_57.JPG


Gaston

That's a beautiful knife, congratulations.

As far as sawbacks and batonning, I recommend people not baton them on my knives. You have already notched the steel and introduced possible stress risers, so there is no sense in exacerbating the situation by beating on that part of the blade with a club. In my opinion.

And let me save you some time on the torture testing of hollow handle knives. If you want to do it for fun, go for it. But the people that don't want to believe are never going to, no matter what kind of testing and proof is offered. Here are a couple of videos I did a while back. These were not scientific, and were just done on the fly so some of the performances could have been better. But it demonstrated the toughness and performance to the degree I was going for. Despite this, there are still people that want to disparage hollow handle knives. That's fine, I understand. But I have proven their durability to my satisfaction, and to any reasonable person.

It's been awhile since I posted these, so I'll do it again.

Chinups:

[video=youtube_share;amrJY9blnaw]http://youtu.be/amrJY9blnaw[/video]

Batonning:

[video=youtube_share;rmMBkgNpjGE]http://youtu.be/rmMBkgNpjGE[/video]

Chopping:

[video=youtube_share;vVvzbLMmZu8]http://youtu.be/vVvzbLMmZu8[/video]


Sam :thumbup:
 
And might as well do one more, for tip strength:

[video=youtube_share;PUiO_4fAkmg]http://youtu.be/PUiO_4fAkmg[/video]
 
As far as sawbacks and batonning, I recommend people not baton them on my knives. You have already notched the steel and introduced possible stress risers, so there is

It really depends on the batoning in question. I typically use an axe to split wood, but fireside I will baton quarters into little slivers to start the fire. That won't stress the blade, in my experience. Pounding away to split a knot, maybe, but not to make kindling of soft wood.
 
It really depends on the batoning in question. I typically use an axe to split wood, but fireside I will baton quarters into little slivers to start the fire. That won't stress the blade, in my experience. Pounding away to split a knot, maybe, but not to make kindling of soft wood.

I agree with you, for the most part. I have done much heavier batonning than that with sawbacked knives without incident. But I discourage batonning with them simply because some people don't know when to quit. If somebody starts smashing the back of a sawback knife with a heavy round of wood, or heaven forbid uses something metal to hit with, the chances for catastrophic failure go up big time. And there is no getting around the fact that a bunch of extra notches, even radiused, introduce a number of stress risers. But that is just my take on it.

Sam
 
Back
Top