ultimate hard use / abuse knife

I'm not an expert in ultimate hard use uses but I have an Ontario RD-7 in 5160 that seems capable of taking a heck of a beating and it only cost me somewhere around $70.
 
find a 3/16" thick knife in 3v that you can baton through bricks and stab through sheet metal without ANY damage, and then put in a vice and hit with a steel hammer without a failure, and i'll concede that 3v may be close to INFI as a hard use knife steel
 
BePrepared said:
find a 3/16" thick knife in 3v that you can baton through bricks and stab through sheet metal without ANY damage, and then put in a vice and hit with a steel hammer without a failure, and i'll concede that 3v may be close to INFI as a hard use knife steel
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Most Busse blades are thicker than 3/16" though, are they not?

How about S7? That stuff is tough.
 
i won't argue with that. S7 is tougher than a drunk red neck.

Yes most Busse's are .25 or more, but Nos tested one that was 3/16 and that thing took a beating that woulda made an irishman proud
 
BePrepared said:
Yes most Busse's are .25 or more, but Nos tested one that was 3/16 and that thing took a beating that woulda made an irishman proud
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I'll agree that INFI seems to be a very good steel, and quite a few of the Busse knives are well designed.
 
Raphael.caluwe said:
So I am mostly into folders, and am a couple of knives away from having all I want (for the moment ;)). I am going to buy a spyderco military, a microtech utx-70(yes I found a dealer who still has some in stock!=D) and a spyderco dragonfly tattoo for my girlfriend. After that I will be looking for a really tough fixed blade, preferably quite large, approx 10inch+ overall. Not to edc, but really for hard use!

post suggestions please!
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Raphael.caluwe said:
well, experience has learned me that when I like a knife the price really isnt really important, but to stay serious, I wont pay more than 500usd.
Well, on the busse website they only show 2 models. the team gemini and the argone assault, wich I dont like.
also, im quite confused mt knives buyer...
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I would agree with some of the others that suggest you look to less-expensive options for your purposes. Personally, I don't see the point of paying $500 for a beater--especially since there are so many solid options to be had for far less. With your budget, I'd say that if you plan to use your knife as a knife and intend to care for and maintain it, I'd recommend a nice custom.

I'm sure you'd be more than satisfied with any Becker or ESEE offering that catches your eye and meets your preferred specs...

Good luck, OP! :)
 
timberweasel said:
Personally, I don't see the point of paying $500 for a beater.
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The funny thing is that my brother got the Swamp Rat Rodent Waki because he could beat the crap out it.
He lets everyone who's around use it.
It's been chipped, dinged, rusted, then sharpened back to okay. It has even been used as a lawn dart (thrown AWAY from everyone else).:eek:
Much of the coating is gone entirely.
By the time shipping and duty and sheath are factored in, it cost more that $500.
 
stabman said:
The funny thing is that my brother got the Swamp Rat Rodent Waki because he could beat the crap out it.
He lets everyone who's around use it.
It's been chipped, dinged, rusted, then sharpened back to okay. It has even been used as a lawn dart (thrown AWAY from everyone else).:eek:
Much of the coating is gone entirely.
By the time shipping and duty and sheath are factored in, it cost more that $500.
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That is funny... :p

Seriously though, as long as he enjoys it, the juice was indeed worth the squeeze... :thumbup:
 
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I just got my first Busse. A TGLB. It cost me less than $400 including g10 , and i'd put it up against ANY custom or production knife of similar size and shape as a "hard use" knife...
 
timberweasel said:
Seriously though, as long as he enjoys it, it the juice was indeed worth the squeeze... :thumbup:
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Absolutely.

My dad is on the other end of the spectrum, and he WON'T use his Rodent Waki due to how much it cost.
So he just uses my brother's.;)
 
timberweasel said:
BTW, lawn darts are just dangerous, fella. Only thugs and punks carry those things... ;) :D
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I remember lawn darts as a kid.
There were some close calls, but we all seemed to live.:)

Of course, back then we didn't have all the drive by dartings...;)
 
BePrepared said:
find a 3/16" thick knife in 3v that you can baton through bricks and stab through sheet metal without ANY damage, and then put in a vice and hit with a steel hammer without a failure, and i'll concede that 3v may be close to INFI as a hard use knife steel
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When would you ever need to "baton through bricks and stab through sheet metal without ANY damage, and then put in a vice and hit with a steel hammer"? I understand that those tests show the knife is tough, but what possible forces could one apply to a knife in real world use that would equal putting it in a vice and hammering it? I can't think of any need for a knife that strong in the woods short of bashing one's way out of a downed airplane. Maybe in the city you could bash your way out of a car, but that could be done with a $5 glass breaker tool.

This isn't meant to be provocative. I'm really curious as to what uses people think they need "hard use" knives for or what they intend to do with their knives that requires .25"+ thickness and extreme toughness. I mean it's not like 3/16" 1095 is going to shatter when used for chopping, look at a BK9.
 
stabman said:
Stop stalking my posts.:mad:
I get it: you don't like me.
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I hadn't noticed that I had replied to a lot of your posts. Quite honestly, I usually just correct the silliest post I see in a thread. Are you that guy from the thread on Bark Rivers who thinks that survival knives shouldn't be used to cut chopsticks unless they're batoned, using an approved BRKT batoning stick? Because if so, I can see how I'd have replied to a LOT of your posts...
 
Fanglekai said:
When would you ever need to "baton through bricks and stab through sheet metal without ANY damage, and then put in a vice and hit with a steel hammer"? I understand that those tests show the knife is tough
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You may never want to cut through a concrete block, the toughness to do so safely is not completely irrelevant. You're chopping, a branch severs before you think it will - and your blade tip WHAMS! into a quartz rich stone with your weight behind it. You're chopping through an old oak in a polluted area and it is full of carbides and grown over nails. If you're going to spend hundreds of dollars on a large chopping blade that you will actually use heavily, then it is smart to make sure that it survive the odd mis-hap. Of course, most of these knives are used as props and toys, but there you go.

Confession: I'm cheap, so I use either a Marbles Bolo or an MTECH Trailmaster clone when I need a large knife, and a Bahco or Mora when I need a small one. They are reasonably tough and quite decently effective, but if one gets I trashed I'll only be out the cost of a sheath for a Busse, so who cares?
 
I am NOT going to destroy my three favorite knives to see which one is tougher. I did take my Busse B10(INFI), Fherman extreme Judgement(3V) and my SYKCO SOD(SR77) out in the woods. The B10 was the king Chopper. It bit deeper and stayed sharper longer. It could be the zero grind.
The Fherman batoned the best. It's size and curve made it easy to get a good whack to drive it through and it didn't seem to even affect the edge one bit.
The SOD was at an size disadvantage. It did everything well, it didn't do anything the best. It is however my absolute favorite. It is easy to carry and you have total confidence that it will do anything you need it to, lighter than the other two.
 
stabman said:
I remember lawn darts as a kid.
There were some close calls, but we all seemed to live.:)

Of course, back then we didn't have all the drive by dartings...;)
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Alternatively, I might have been commenting on your posts because they're funny...
 
BePrepared said:
I just got my first Busse. A TGLB. It cost me less than $400 including g10 , and i'd put it up against ANY custom or production knife of similar size and shape as a "hard use" knife...
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What about thicker/different Busses that do not have skeletonized handles or unnecessary fullers? They would be stronger...



We get it. You like your new knife. You do NOT, however, have any practical knowledge on it's use, or how it holds up to it. Since it is your first Busse, that means it is your first INFI. That means that you have pretty much zero actual experience with the steel, either.

Reading the Busse forum and watching some troglodyte hit a knife with a 3lbs hammer on youTube does not make INFI more than what it is, mkay?





And yes, I have several Busses in different steels, have used a bunch of them, and am a big fan of the knives and company. The fanboys...not so much.
 
Fanglekai said:
When would you ever need to "baton through bricks and stab through sheet metal without ANY damage, and then put in a vice and hit with a steel hammer"? I understand that those tests show the knife is tough, but what possible forces could one apply to a knife in real world use that would equal putting it in a vice and hammering it? I can't think of any need for a knife that strong in the woods short of bashing one's way out of a downed airplane. Maybe in the city you could bash your way out of a car, but that could be done with a $5 glass breaker tool.

This isn't meant to be provocative. I'm really curious as to what uses people think they need "hard use" knives for or what they intend to do with their knives that requires .25"+ thickness and extreme toughness. I mean it's not like 3/16" 1095 is going to shatter when used for chopping, look at a BK9.
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In the woods nothing comes to mind. In a combat knife there are plenty. The easiest: you find yourself in a Humvee that took a light hit from a ied. The doors are jammed and you have seconds to get out. You use your knife to pry the door open thus survive.

There are many more uses in that context that can break a lesser knife
 
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