What did you rehang today?

Speaking of ash... My work tonight. The Flint Edge was part of yesterday's haul, I've had the 28" ash handle. I put a bunch of time into shaping/sharpening the bit, it's all by hand using files and a couple of Baryonyx stones.

The hatchet I got yesterday too. All original I just had to clean the head, sharpen and rehang with a new wedge. No markings on the 1.75lb head but a superb convex shape. The hammer is a Craftsman on a House handle. All are treated with a BLO/turp mix.

 
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junkenstien said:
D R BARTON broad axe 6.9lb head ,34 handle 12inch cutting edgeView attachment 711572
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Nice! If you have time, I'm interested in:

1. The markings yours has,
2. A closer pic of the edge,
3. and the wedging system you are running.

Looks like a fine beastie :thumbsup:
 
20170523_165356.jpg 20170523_164508.jpg tells me images are to large for server to process half the time,only ones that would load up.wedge on side and in front of handle
 
jblyttle said:
Hammer or axe, hammer or axe...what the heck it has a cutting edge. I gave cross wedging a shot. I'll give myself a B- but it is tight.
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IMG_20170523_184908_zpskzekilym.jpg


Great looking handle. I have a 16oz Plumb hammer that looks pretty similar to what you are grading a B-. I use it frequently - last time putting up about 100ft of fencing. Neat hammer you put together :thumbsup:
 
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300Six said:
Congratulations! You did a beautiful job of this. No one makes their own handles to save on money, time or effort. Grain orientation on your piece of wood looks to be great but you might want to read up some more about grain runout before you tackle the next one.
Wedge materials seem to be a personal choice; softer ones such as traditional Yellow Poplar (which isn't a true Poplar) are springy and compressible to fill voids whereas ones of similar or equal hardness to the haft have (so it's been told) the potential to deform or crack axe eyes if driven in too hard.
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Thanks for the Grain Runout tip! I watched a video of it, and will definitely take it into account for my next handle. Going to check for runout on my current one as well. I really appreciate your input!
 
jblyttle said:
Hammer or axe, hammer or axe...what the heck it has a cutting edge. I gave cross wedging a shot. I'll give myself a B- but it is tight.

Click to expand...

One of the things I've run into with cross wedging is that sometimes even the cross wedge isn't enough to push the wood far enough front-to-back to accommodate the taper in some hammers. Part of the problem is the temptation to use a slim wedge for the cross - after all, it's usually a very small piece of wood. Since it is so small, I constantly find myself not making it thick enough and it doesn't do its job. That's all just part of the learning process, and of course, deciding if cross wedges are worth the effort for you. I like them, but it could be because they appease the mental gymnastics I used to start incorporating them in the first place.
 
There's an inherent risk in cross wedging any tool with a relatively short eye that the cross split will carry down through the eye. A piece glued in the front or back of the eye might be better for these tools. There's a limit to what cross wedging can do.
 
I am working on a hang now, and its a handle that I had to buy sight unseen. I swear the grain runs perpendicular to the bit, but it does seem to be very straight grain, running the length of the handle with little to no runout. I am hoping it will do, as I dont want to deal with returns. It is USA made hickory sapwood at the very least.

It's BLO is drying now, so pics will probably come tomorrow after sharpening.
 
I think you're fine. No runout is key. Vertical grain is better for curved handles but continuous grain is more important.
 
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