What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Number 9
3.25" blade
1.15" tall
.180"thick at spine
3.5" Macassar ebony handle
Homemade pins and bolsters.

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Daniel Rohde said:
PEU: How did you secure it to the blade?(Pins?)
Click to expand...

Daniel, I do the following:

I use 3mm 304 stainless rod for bolsters (which are also 304), having the same steel is important so they age in a similar way and your pins stay hidden.
Also have 3mm brass rods
Cut two pieces of 304
Drill one at a time clamped tightly
Once both sides are drilled I join them together with brass pins to do the front curve 36-120grit using the flat and 240 on the rubber wheel of my grinder so its smooth.
Then I do the opposite side, top and bottom are rough last as I want to finish them once the bolster is properly attached.
Using the brass pins I join the bolsters to the blade and hammer them in place so I can rough taper the bolsters
Once tappered I remove the brass pins (a PITA **) usually by drilling with as 2mm drill, then putting it on the vise and rotating, the 0.5mm walled brass cedes rapidly.
On the outer side of the tappered bolsters I oversize the holes with a larger drill just a little, so the pins have a place to expand when I hammer then in
Cut two rods of 3mm stainless with about 1.5mm excess in lenght on each side.
I have a large chunk of stainless I use as an "anvil" it has divots of different sizes so I can put the pins on one of these holes and hammer and they expand uniformly
Using a light peening hammer I deform both sides of the pins so they "seat" on the expanded portion of the holes.
Then using a 500grams hammer (1.1lb) I finish the work with a 5 minutes hammer solo :)
Then the magic happens in the belt sander, pins blend and dissapear.
Thats it.

In the past I didn't used the brass rod and the enlarged holes, but from time to time pins reappeared after a very nice finish, which is a royal PITA, and since a royal PITA beats a plain PITA (**) I decided to go this way :D


Pablo
PS: next time I will take photos
 
My first two completed knives. I'm not too happy with the handle on the second one (top knife - too short and needs more sanding) but each mistake is a learning experience. They are made from W2 and after doing a cutting test with the bottom one I think the steel is a pretty good performer. The grind line on the bottom one is out of wack due to a divot in the blade. The other side looks good.

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Finally finished one.......for a local farmer to cut up pigs and chickens.

my Damascus.... low layer count(56) 1084 and 15n20. Stabilized birch burl, and brushed nickel silver.


Darcy:)
 
Had a piece of 3/32 1095 catch my eye yesturday in the shop. Decided to try another kitchen knife. This one for my wife so I can use and abuse it in the kitchen.

This time I heat treated before grind. So I profiled the blade and tossed it in the forge. Where it promptly curled up like a leaf. :banghead. Took 2 tries to get it straight before I could even think about quenching. Then it warped again. I hate thin steel. But those hurdles were over come. I wanted to try a no plunge line grind and it worked pretty good. Then I grabbed a little non descript block I had been saving labled buckeye burl. I cut it into slabs and was excited to see how cool it looked inside.

I'm not gonna lie. I like this knife. I'm glad it's staying here. The pins in the bolsters don't match. I ordered some different pin stock.
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DEllis said:
Finally finished one.......for a local farmer to cut up pigs and chickens.

my Damascus.... low layer count(56) 1084 and 15n20. Stabilized birch burl, and brushed nickel silver.


Darcy:)
Click to expand...

That's most excellent! Nice work.
 
ricky_arthur said:
Had a piece of 3/32 1095 catch my eye yesturday in the shop. Decided to try another kitchen knife. This one for my wife so I can use and abuse it in the kitchen.

This time I heat treated before grind. So I profiled the blade and tossed it in the forge. Where it promptly curled up like a leaf. :banghead. Took 2 tries to get it straight before I could even think about quenching. Then it warped again. I hate thin steel. But those hurdles were over come. I wanted to try a no plunge line grind and it worked pretty good. Then I grabbed a little non descript block I had been saving labled buckeye burl. I cut it into slabs and was excited to see how cool it looked inside.

I'm not gonna lie. I like this knife. I'm glad it's staying here. The pins in the bolsters don't match. I ordered some different pin stock.
20141231_190429-1_zpsvvt7id73.jpg


20141231_190923_zpskivdecuu.jpg



20141231_191150-1_zpsdtjasbu7.jpg


2014-12-31%2019.49.18_zps4wj1q668.jpg
Click to expand...

Ricky, first, nice looking knife for your wife. Second, ALWAYS wear eye protection in polycarbonate wrap arounds or a plastic face shield in the shop!

I have a few sets of the Polycarbs around for guests and the two face shields in the shop. You don't want to lose an eye! :eek:
http://www.uline.com/Grp_208/Safety-Glasses-Goggles
 
Rhinoknives. I appreciate the safety tip. But I meant "caught my eye" in the figurative sense. Meaning I was moving some stuff around and saw a 14 inch piece of 1/8" 1095 laying there, and thought..."that should be a kitchen knife. I always wear eye pro in the shop. :)
 
I also tried my hand at the no plunge line on a gyuto. I used Bolivian rosewood scales. I wish I could get the grain to pop. They are sanded through 1500 and buffed. This is my second gyuto and it turned out way better than my first one.
 
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Finally got an etch stencil from Ernie and marked and finished up the first 3 to have my name on them, numbers 6,7, and 8 total. 1084, Green and brown canvas and black linen micarta.

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Built a new hammer / tong rack. Sagging slightly in the center, so I need to add one more support, or replace one of the cross all-threads with an angle iron or whatnot. Was looking for a place to put a new hammer rack in my shop when I realized... why not the back of the door?

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