What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I'd trade my new grinder for a good mill any day, lol. I think with certain finishes, the steps look pretty cool, especially with right scales. Grimsmo Norseman Flippers are a good example of how the geometric work on the handle compliments the stepped blades...the important thing is, you are making some kick butt knives with the tools you have! I commend you for that sir! I wish there was some place that I could learn to do some mill & lathe work so I can decide if I want to get one...considering I have done CAD design for over 18 years, it would be easy to model & create some really cool stuff if I had CNC capabilities, but I'm sure I'd be happy with a manual setup as well. Looking forward to seeing more of your prototypes Stevos.
 
SugarSkulls said:
I'd trade my new grinder for a good mill any day, lol. I think with certain finishes, the steps look pretty cool, especially with right scales. Grimsmo Norseman Flippers are a good example of how the geometric work on the handle compliments the stepped blades...the important thing is, you are making some kick butt knives with the tools you have! I commend you for that sir! I wish there was some place that I could learn to do some mill & lathe work so I can decide if I want to get one...considering I have done CAD design for over 18 years, it would be easy to model & create some really cool stuff if I had CNC capabilities, but I'm sure I'd be happy with a manual setup as well. Looking forward to seeing more of your prototypes Stevos.
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Thanks! If you can do CAD you can do the CNC!

I learned mostly from youtube(mostly Grimsmo!) and google. I had no form of school. Just started tinkering one day and found myself very interested!

Let me know if you have any questions on the subject!

thanks!
 
SugarSkulls said:
The first priority was to ensure that my blades get secured when I need to drill them. I just happened to see the Harbor Freight ViseGrip style work table clamp. It wouldnt work on my work table as it was, but I knew I could adapt it and here's what I came up with. The lower jaw of this clamp has a threaded lug on it that screws into the nut with the ring on it. Well, I cut most of the ring off & turned it into a wing nut looking thing & that works great for keeping the nut from spinning when I slide it into the groove & thread the clamp into it.


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I sanded a little flat relief in the wood to catch the blade and also positioned the clamp in the path of the blade if for some reason it did spin free. This seems to hold really tight, but when I can find some T-bolts, I plan on making something better for securing my blades to the drill press. I was drilling out a Russell Green River Dadley kit blade for some corby pins.

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Looks alot like something I did long ago... in a galaxy far far away. :D
:thumbup:

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Erin
 
SugarSkulls said:
I got my 2x72 grinder in yesterday. I'm waiting to get the belts in so I can mount the motor & grinder down and space it properly. This is the Oregon Blade Maker grinder that is currently being sold on eBay. I also got my drive wheel from him. The motor I got from DeslersIndustrial on eBay, and they had a deal on a VFD & 1hp Toshiba motor. All told I spent $829 for these items including shipping. I will report back on it's operation when I get it up & running. In the meantime, here is an unboxing video I made.

[video=youtube_share;vZGJQHoj1A0]http://youtu.be/vZGJQHoj1A0[/video]

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So the whole thing for $829? That seems pretty good compared to some of those $2,000 grinders but perhaps a better option than the grizzly grinder at $500? Look forward to your review of it!
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Much appreciated!

I'm applying the 72 RC Tungsten carbide to the Titanium blade for edge holding. The hard carbide does the cutting while the tough Ti backs it. This combo excels on cardboard and other abrasive materials, bone, meat, veggies, cloth, rope, rubber, canvas and more. The Ti is softer than the carbide so as the knife wears it will reveal more carbide in a self sharpening effect.

Why? Ultralight, no rust, easy to maintain, cuts aggressively...

These are easy to sharpen also, just work up a burr fro the opposite microbevel and strop off. The burr builds faster than one on steel and takes a little longer than normal to remove.

I make 'em but it is a goal that they do not look handcrafted... I want people to think robots from outer space made the knives. :D :D :D


Here it is all finished up!







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Do you have a link explaining how carbonizing works? Are you just finding a way of adding a carbide coating to the blade edge?
 
Heres my latest:
So I finished a new kitchen knife and here it is:
There are the spec's:
Steel: 52100 multiple quench
handle: Ivory paper micarta with G10 liners
Finish: *400 grit satin finish
Blade length: * * 8 1/4"
Handle length: * 5 1/4"
Overall length: *13 1/2"
Width: * * * * * * *2 1/4"
Spine thickness: .102"
1/4" behind the edge: .029"
edge spine thickness(approximately) .010"

Right Handed
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What do you all think?

Daniel Rohde
 
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Erin, Good call on using two. I almost bought 2 but wanted to test one out first. I think I'd still like to come up with some t-nut with hold downs that have knobs or something. I just need to measure the slot dimensions on mummy table and either fab or find some hardware to fit it.

Fish, yes, the grinder, platten, drive wheel, motor, and VFD cost that to my door and $100 of that was shipping. I'm actually in my garage trying to wire it up and I plan on doing a review of it, the motor setup, and also a new tool rest he just started offering that swivels on a ball so you can get creative and lock it down to get compound angles.

Daniel, I love that ivory micarta, that is a knife I would enjoy in my kitchen! Love the handle shape.
 
It's not technically in the shop. I put it in the basement so it stays warm and clean. I picked this up off of CL last week. Adjusted it a little bit and it's right on.
 
Making progress on the Grinder In A Box version 2.0:

Version 2.0 allows bolted construction for attaching the main upright to the base, no more bottom tapping required. Same with the idler bracket assembly, redesigned to allow through holes instead of bottom tapping. Version 2.0 is also set up for installation of a gas shock. I've really enjoyed putting this together and can't wait to get my motor and VFD to finish it up.

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Here's another I worked on today. it still needs some detail work but its looking nice! first time using kirinite for me. This on is also a right handed knife
52100 triple quenched.
This morning:
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Later...
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this has been a fun one!

-Daniel Rohde
 
I finally have something to post in this thread! My first pre order sale went well. Now I have 30 knives to get done. My VFD smoked itself a month ago, but it just came back via the big brown UPS truck today, so I'm back up and running. I just got my sub forum up. Glad to be moving forward.
 
JHoffman, I would like to buy one of those also but I don't have a clue how much to spend on a used tester. Could you tell me what you had to pay to buy that one? Did you have to buy a kit to adjust the hardness readings? Are there printed instructions for these to adjust them for accuracy. Any info. would be appreciated. Thank you, Larry Lehman
 
Larry, I had no idea the hardness testers cost as much as they do.

I found one local but it's missing parts and it looks like a very old one so I don't want to spend the money and not be able to source what ever is missing.
 
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