What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Rhinoknives1 said:
You want to double your grit with each belt or paper change, I use a 36 grit, 60Grit and 120 grit then to Scotchbrite or cork belts depending on what I'm after.
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I do usually go along those lines, but I think I used 36, 80, 120, 220, then either 320 or old 220 belts. This was the first time I used scotchbrite but I liked how it performed. I had already tried a buffer before the scotchbrite though.

But if I could ask one more question, when it comes to having a flat grind vs a large convex grind, is this more of an aesthetic thing or does it seriously affect the performance of the knife?
 
eyeeatingfish said:
I do usually go along those lines, but I think I used 36, 80, 120, 220, then either 320 or old 220 belts. This was the first time I used scotchbrite but I liked how it performed. I had already tried a buffer before the scotchbrite though.

But if I could ask one more question, when it comes to having a flat grind vs a large convex grind, is this more of an aesthetic thing or does it seriously affect the performance of the knife?
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I think the thickness behind the edge affects the cutting performance of the knife.
 
What would knife making be without making a mistake or two? I made this Murray Carter design paring knife for myself. I always seem to go for the smaller knives in the kitchen and thought I would try something of his. I have no idea where my head was at when I etched the blade, but I put my maker's mark way too far back. Oh well, live and learn. It will be a good reminder of what not to do in the future. I also made a little leather sheath kind of holder for it. The steel is AEB-L at 62Rc with bleached linen micarta scales.

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eyeeatingfish said:
I do usually go along those lines, but I think I used 36, 80, 120, 220, then either 320 or old 220 belts. This was the first time I used scotchbrite but I liked how it performed. I had already tried a buffer before the scotchbrite though.

But if I could ask one more question, when it comes to having a flat grind vs a large convex grind, is this more of an aesthetic thing or does it seriously affect the performance of the knife?
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bottom line, Unless you are a pretty skilled knife maker, the chances of you making a symmetrical convex grind are slim to none. Doing a flat grind gives you a pretty good benchmark for symmetry, If the grind lines are the same height and length on both sides, the blade is most likely symetrical and will perform better, be less likely to warp in heat treat, and just look way better in general. My first attempt looked "ok" to me, but once i realized what a full flat grind looked like in comparison, I realized how bad the work I had done on the "convex" one was. Quite frankly, I was deluding myself into thinking I had done a "convex" grind, when in reality, I had just failed in doing a flat grind. Once I accepted that, I got better at flat grinds. If you want strength behind the edge, you can always just keep your grind lines lower, like many "bushcraft" knives seem to be.
 
That question is one of the eternal debates! ;)

I personally, on some of my knives like a tad of convex starting about 3/4 to 3/3rds from the spine, Camp knives used for chopping and some culinary knives benefit from it
I really make a FFG first and then Conex it a tad.

I suggest you focus on the FFG for now, Any convexing can come later after you can consistently put a FFG grind on your blades. Using the little 1 x 42 machine you have, you can only get maybe 5 minutes tops out of those belts.

Scott at www.trugrit.com Has Norton, Blaze and other Ceramic belts that have more life than A/O or S/C belts.
 
Lo/Rez said:
What would knife making be without making a mistake or two? I made this Murray Carter design paring knife for myself. I always seem to go for the smaller knives in the kitchen and thought I would try something of his. I have no idea where my head was at when I etched the blade, but I put my maker's mark way too far back. Oh well, live and learn. It will be a good reminder of what not to do in the future. I also made a little leather sheath kind of holder for it. The steel is AEB-L at 62Rc with bleached linen micarta scales.


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I have a maker friend who calls those "stake" knives instead of mistakes! Says his wife has a drawer full! Looks really good though. Nice work
 
Looks like you got the tip just a tad hot and a little thin, But looks good.

I finished the dagger and it turned out nice I think considering it's almost twice the work.
Fopefully some one will like it as much as me in the forsale area.

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That's really nice! Daggers are a pain in the butt. I think you nailed it!
 
Lo/Rez said:
What would knife making be without making a mistake or two? I made this Murray Carter design paring knife for myself. I always seem to go for the smaller knives in the kitchen and thought I would try something of his. I have no idea where my head was at when I etched the blade, but I put my maker's mark way too far back. Oh well, live and learn. It will be a good reminder of what not to do in the future. I also made a little leather sheath kind of holder for it. The steel is AEB-L at 62Rc with bleached linen micarta scales.

IMG_20160204_152130_zpsxs457fmc.jpg


IMG_20160205_130921_zpsyxygklgo.jpg
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Great little knife. Like the handle.

Jay
 
JTknives said:
Looks like you got the tip just a tad hot and a little thin, But looks good.

I finished the dagger and it turned out nice I think considering it's almost twice the work.
Fopefully some one will like it as much as me in the forsale area.

12644749_10209298770453282_3890905128697866003_n.jpg


12651358_10209298771493308_8032714303801557807_n.jpg


12687948_10209298774413381_1112764654803406757_n.jpg


12661942_10209298775533409_1033001093471723328_n.jpg


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Great wrap job on that dagger.

Jay
 
I really like the white once it's finished but it is a pain to keep clean while working it.
Lo/Rez said:
Thanks. I think I might be going retro or something as I am starting to like white/bone/ivory for handle colors. I think I will do all of my personal knives with them.
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Here are a few pictures of the I just finished this morning. The blade is 3/32" Cpm154cm at 61RC. The handle is African Blackwood. I promise to get a better setup for pictures soon!
 
The customer confessed...



Yes, he was abusing the knife and he knew better. He's an instrument mechanic and one of my brothers coworkers at the nuclear plant but he hasn't said exactly what he was doing.






So this is how I tried to salvage the blade. Could I have salvaged this one some other way? Suggestions?
 
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