What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

The Struggle...I think I need to update my TouchID on my iPhone....it doesn't recognize my thumb anymore.
033e7d7937feff49f53a53052fda41da.jpg
 
Been working one this one and finally got the bolster peined on, lot's of oil on the blade right now in the pic

24624835830_914730e154_b.jpg


24623913770_e3978b6a57_b.jpg
 
Erin, pretty wicked man! I LOVE the fluted handle! How are you attaching the wire wrap?
 
Spucknit said:
That is by far the sexiest handle I have ever seen. The liners, the spacers, the contours are all gorgeous. Absolute eye candy.
Click to expand...

Haha thanks man! It's my favorite part, to see all the pieces come together. 😊
Blessings,
Joshua
 
JoshRG said:
Haha thanks man! It's my favorite part, to see all the pieces come together. 😊
Blessings,
Joshua
Click to expand...

Yeah Josh, those are impressive! do you ever have trouble with raised pins? I had a handle that just would not like me.
 
Daniel,
If I'm reading this correctly? Try this, Put a thick piece of leather behind your final hand sanding paper to flatten those pins.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Daniel,
If I'm reading this correctly? Try this, Put a thick piece of leather behind your final hand sanding paper to flatten those pins.
Click to expand...

I'll give that a shot, I have been tried darn near everything under the sun and it's not like the pins are really raised(it's very slight) but I can just barely feel them and I don't like that. Thats probably the most annoy thing about full tang knives to me.
 
Here are a couple of Japanese kitchen knives I've been working on. A petty and a bocho. The handles are Gabon ebony and curly koa, and will be octagonal wa. They will have blue g-10 spacers too.
 
My shop is kind of a joke right now. Just barely started so I'm on a 3'x4' work table. I'm armed with a little belt sander, an unassembled drill press, some files, and a vice. I'm working on my first knife and it's a ton of fun. I'm looking at buying a grinder and moving into the shed.
 
Daniel Rohde said:
I'll give that a shot, I have been tried darn near everything under the sun and it's not like the pins are really raised(it's very slight) but I can just barely feel them and I don't like that. Thats probably the most annoy thing about full tang knives to me.
Click to expand...

Besides backed sandpaper I mostly use my Rhino Finger Skins for Sculpting my handles and making the pins/Loveless bolts flush with the Platen out and pressing from the back of the belt using X weight 40 grit up to the Superflex 600 grit.

It was accidental that I discovered that this works so well having designed them for working Harden steel. They work fantastic for handle Sculpting as well.

Speaking of accidents, be careful when doing this, having your hand/fingers go between the belt and wheel is no fun! Ask me how I know this! ;)

ricky_arthur said:
I just finished this set.
20160209_201901-1_zpso1gzfkrw.jpg
Click to expand...

Find looking set! What steel did you use?

Kadecho said:
My shop is kind of a joke right now. Just barely started so I'm on a 3'x4' work table. I'm armed with a little belt sander, an unassembled drill press, some files, and a vice. I'm working on my first knife and it's a ton of fun. I'm looking at buying a grinder and moving into the shed.
Click to expand...

I worked with my knife project on a old bread board C-Clamped to the railing outside of my apt with hand files & paper for six months, You will learn alot this way !:)
 
New and hust starting out with steel. I have done a couple handles on kit knives and the file is the first one i have done any metal on.

0a1106ff8624578f248697861427ab5c.jpg

5600a894491e525a70d6cb436c03959b.jpg

9db2cd5a439f0d7078f20359904ce9ee.jpg

ed1ec2c57f98d447bd30e3014c33a28a.jpg


The little one was my first and the wood is 200 year old non wormy American chestnut.

Mike
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Besides backed sandpaper I mostly use my Rhino Finger Skins for Sculpting my handles and making the pins/Loveless bolts flush with the Platen out and pressing from the back of the belt using X weight 40 grit up to the Superflex 600 grit.

It was accidental that I discovered that this works so well having designed them for working Harden steel. They work fantastic for handle Sculpting as well.

Speaking of accidents, be careful when doing this, having your hand/fingers go between the belt and wheel is no fun! Ask me how I know this! ;)



Find looking set! What steel did you use?



I worked with my knife project on a old bread board C-Clamped to the railing outside of my apt with hand files & paper for six months, You will learn alot this way !:)
Click to expand...

The cleaver, filet knife and paring knife are 440c. The other 3 are AEB-L. Here is the block I made for them today.
20160210_180354-1_zpsphtnvuzz.jpg
 
Working on some handles.
Horse chestnut burl and crosscut carbon fiber. Sanding them and removing previous scratches :)

61de291ab9b6b75be4bc1f49edb975e3.jpg
 
Finally finished! To be frank I'm not really a fan of this style of blade anymore :o

24337134713_a1782ca7bf_b.jpg
 
daniel rohde i saw your post about the pins. a hard backing works for me. i use a piece of flat steel. with soft backing, the paper and backing deforms over the edge of the hard pin, and sands the handle away more than it does the pin. you end up with a bump, or anthill. i find the same thing can happen with a guard/handle joint. the softer material wears away quicker, and you can feel the joint with your fingernail. i use hard backing up to 400 grit. at 600 grit, so little material is removed i can hand sand from there on up.
 
7 3/4" Rhino Asian Chef with Pinch Grip butterfly. 0.110 AEB-L Steel, RC 61 Paul Bos HT,
Dyed & Stabilized Ash Handle with Black liners. Loveless Bolts. The buyer will be picking this one up tonight.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top