What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Hahahaha I woke up this morning thinking maybe Scotch Brite is the perfect finish. Mirror polish is very impressive but so easy to mess up. I'm too much of a pragmatist.
 
Recently got into handle making (dont have the space to make my own blades just yet). This guy is about 2/3s through the finishing process with about another week to go.

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If you have another week I'm assuming you're using truoil? I am finishing some curly walnut with it now. I am going to give it a week and buff it. I already have 6-7 coats on it. Yours is looking good bud!
groy87 said:
Recently got into handle making (dont have the space to make my own blades just yet). This guy is about 2/3s through the finishing process with about another week to go.

pl8Sx56sj
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Matt R said:
If you have another week I'm assuming you're using truoil? I am finishing some curly walnut with it now. I am going to give it a week and buff it. I already have 6-7 coats on it. Yours is looking good bud!
Click to expand...

Yep I'm using tru oil on this guy. I'm about 11 coats in with at least 5 more to go. Still honing in the method but I am happy with the results so far. :)
 
Been some weeks since my last post here... Santoku, ebony handle

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Pablo
 
If you're doing plungless knives and are not using a contact wheel to blend then you should give it a try. Start with a sweeping plunge and go up to an A65 gator. At this point it should be close to being blended but you can still see the plunge. Now stay with th A65 and switch over to the contact wheel. I have an 8" but a 4" or 6" would be better I think. Hold the blade tip down about 45 degrees and start about halfway on the tang. Now, ride the tang until the cutting edge side starts to roll down the plunge and continue to the tip. Make full passes each time. I then go to a blue scotchbrite . After this I go back to the platen and make sure the tang is flat. Then a little hand sanding and you're done!
 
My 4 year old wanted to hang out in the shop and we ended up making his first knife. Don't have a Rockwell tester but I'd guess it's around .2 to. 3. Walnut blade and scales. Full flat grind and solid one piece construction. Doesn't cut very well. Didn't get much done in the shop but time well spent in my book. Here's a pic of the happy owner lol.
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That's awesome!
josh81 said:
My 4 year old wanted to hang out in the shop and we ended up making his first knife. Don't have a Rockwell tester but I'd guess it's around .2 to. 3. Walnut blade and scales. Full flat grind and solid one piece construction. Doesn't cut very well. Didn't get much done in the shop but time well spent in my book. Here's a pic of the happy owner lol.
4a9ab602d7ca1b06e78f62122fb293ed.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I just finished up the larger piece of this matched pair.

All of the major components of this piece(leather excluded) come from a generation's old farm that climbs slopes of the Cape Breton Highlands in the town of Cheticamp. The blade was forged from a "100+ year old" farrier's rasp. The moose antler pieces all come from a nearly intact skull that had been left atop an old shed to weather for several decades before I got a hold of it. The Ambrosia Maple is also from the same property.

Cheticamp Bowie

Blade: 11 3/4" x approx 1/4" of forge finish farrier's rasp, flat ground bevels with a 600 grit hand sanded finish.

Handle: Wrought iron S-guard and spacer forged from an anchor chain link, etched and lightly polished. Moose antler spacer with birch bark, birch, and bloodwood accents. Natural Ambrosia Maple with buffed tung oil and paste wax finish, and a peened, domed, and polished stainless steel pin.

Sheath: 6/7 oz veg tanned leather with natural polished edges, leather lanyard, moose antler conch, and a maple bead. The leather has a buffed mink oil finish

Please let me know your thoughts,

Thanks,
Peter





















 
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