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Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by WillSwift, Oct 8, 2013.
DSCF5413 by Ethan Koukides, on Flickr
DSCF5400 by Ethan Koukides, on Flickr
DSCF5391 by Ethan Koukides, on Flickr
Finished this knife for my Dad right in the knick of time! 80CRV2 dressed in Desert Ironwood. Easily my best knife to date. Hand rubbed to 3000 grit (both the blade and handle) then lightly buffed with white rouge (essentially knocking it back down to 1500 or so haha)
I love Desert Ironwood - wish I had 100lbs of it! Hard to take pictures of it though - I need to invest in a proper lightbox/diffuser or something.
Here are my latest knives.
First is a Chef 240mm in 52100, the second is a Santoku Ktip 180mm in 14C28N and the last one is a Petty Ktip 150mm in 14C28N with a elforyn wa handle.
Lawrence - sorry I did not respond to you on this earlier - thank you for the comment. I will definitely include a couple blocks for black color in my next lot to K&G - probably early Jan. My test blocks are actually drying very very nicely in my box at 90 degrees (F). Went from ambient 10% or to, down to 0.5% in about a week. Burled and Spalted wood seem to dry that last bit in a flash when put under the right conditions....
Don’t rush the drying too much. That can cause cracks.
That’s why I mentioned “test blocks” .. as in blocks put into the drying box to test whether they will split or crack. Actually, pretty much across the board, varying from dense rosewoods to sparled wood and burl, once below 12-15% moisture, I have had almost zero problem with splitting of wood in the drying box. Curiously, I have had problems only with locally harvested black walnut, and even then only pieces that had some kind of knot in them. These most recent cherry burls appear to be pretty stable in drying, as are the sparled maple I got from WEO. Beginners luck maybe, but I am pretty cautious to be sure about their moisture content before I expose them to higher temps...
Knots can make twisting/drying more likely to crack. There are so many variables with different woods, seasonal differences etc. that’s why I set pieces to dry 1” per year...
I bought a large maple burl slab to process and send to K&G. Also grabbed a moisture tester, but my question is what setting do I use to test it? It has multiple settings for different woods, any idea how to find the base species to test this as?
rhinoknives and dustiny - this has gone off topic for this thread - im going to pull back up another thread on drying wood and respond to you there. Hopefully you two wil see it come back to the top...
This was my last knife of the year, a 259mm gyuto in 26C3 deferentially hardened @ 64/65Rc. The handle and saya are zircote with brass accents.
Last knife for 2019, a small push dagger in 51200 and micarta, never tought it would besuch a nightmare to finish!
Ashwinearl, why such a thick weld on those sheaths?
Got a great Christmas present. A new heat treating oven. Evenheat recommends running the first firing empty. Going to do that tonight. Looking forward to working with some stainless steels.
No reason. I hadn't thought to thin it except for down at the bottom where the fold is. These are not very wide, so have felt I needed the full thickness at the handle. I hadn't thought to shave it down on these down by the blade. That would make it more balanced as these are smaller more delicate looking knives.
On bigger knives where I need a thicker welt by the handle, I do laminate two pieces thicker and then shave it down so it just single thickness at the blade.
The wife ordered me one for Christmas, she was a little bummed when she found out it takes about 6 weeks to deliver. I'm looking forward to warping all kinds of knives.
Bocote, DIY mosaic pins and 1080 steel. I attempted a hamon and after etching found almost nothing at all. Still made a great Christmas gift for my dad though. I was very, VERY pleased with how easy bocote was to work. Felt like pine compared to cocobolo...