What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

DeadboxHero said:
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:D
 
DSCF5413 by Ethan Koukides, on Flickr
DSCF5400 by Ethan Koukides, on Flickr
DSCF5391 by Ethan Koukides, on Flickr

Finished this knife for my Dad right in the knick of time! 80CRV2 dressed in Desert Ironwood. Easily my best knife to date. Hand rubbed to 3000 grit (both the blade and handle) then lightly buffed with white rouge (essentially knocking it back down to 1500 or so haha)

I love Desert Ironwood - wish I had 100lbs of it! Hard to take pictures of it though - I need to invest in a proper lightbox/diffuser or something.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
I have purchased some Maple burl scales that were stabilized & dyed with black and it came out excellent! You could see the red, Brown to white specks in the burl with a Milky Way type swirl pattern as it darkened. The knife sold to the first person to pick it up! Of course I lost the pics of it.,,I will do it myself when I send in a batch to K&G. Thy it on a few blocks!
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Lawrence - sorry I did not respond to you on this earlier - thank you for the comment. I will definitely include a couple blocks for black color in my next lot to K&G - probably early Jan. My test blocks are actually drying very very nicely in my box at 90 degrees (F). Went from ambient 10% or to, down to 0.5% in about a week. Burled and Spalted wood seem to dry that last bit in a flash when put under the right conditions....
 
Cushing H. said:
Lawrence - sorry I did not respond to you on this earlier - thank you for the comment. I will definitely include a couple blocks for black color in my next lot to K&G - probably early Jan. My test blocks are actually drying very very nicely in my box at 90 degrees (F). Went from ambient 10% or to, down to 0.5% in about a week. Burled and Spalted wood seem to dry that last bit in a flash when put under the right conditions....
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Don’t rush the drying too much. That can cause cracks.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Don’t rush the drying too much. That can cause cracks.
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That’s why I mentioned “test blocks” .. as in blocks put into the drying box to test whether they will split or crack. Actually, pretty much across the board, varying from dense rosewoods to sparled wood and burl, once below 12-15% moisture, I have had almost zero problem with splitting of wood in the drying box. Curiously, I have had problems only with locally harvested black walnut, and even then only pieces that had some kind of knot in them. These most recent cherry burls appear to be pretty stable in drying, as are the sparled maple I got from WEO. Beginners luck maybe, but I am pretty cautious to be sure about their moisture content before I expose them to higher temps...
 
Cushing H. said:
That’s why I mentioned “test blocks” .. as in blocks put into the drying box to test whether they will split or crack. Actually, pretty much across the board, varying from dense rosewoods to sparled wood and burl, once below 12-15% moisture, I have had almost zero problem with splitting of wood in the drying box. Curiously, I have had problems only with locally harvested black walnut, and even then only pieces that had some kind of knot in them. These most recent cherry burls appear to be pretty stable in drying, as are the sparled maple I got from WEO. Beginners luck maybe, but I am pretty cautious to be sure about their moisture content before I expose them to higher temps...
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Knots can make twisting/drying more likely to crack. There are so many variables with different woods, seasonal differences etc. that’s why I set pieces to dry 1” per year...
 
Cushing H. said:
Lawrence - sorry I did not respond to you on this earlier - thank you for the comment. I will definitely include a couple blocks for black color in my next lot to K&G - probably early Jan. My test blocks are actually drying very very nicely in my box at 90 degrees (F). Went from ambient 10% or to, down to 0.5% in about a week. Burled and Spalted wood seem to dry that last bit in a flash when put under the right conditions....
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I bought a large maple burl slab to process and send to K&G. Also grabbed a moisture tester, but my question is what setting do I use to test it? It has multiple settings for different woods, any idea how to find the base species to test this as?
 
rhinoknives and dustiny - this has gone off topic for this thread - im going to pull back up another thread on drying wood and respond to you there. Hopefully you two wil see it come back to the top...
 
Hengelo_77 said:
Ashwinearl, why such a thick weld on those sheaths?
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No reason. I hadn't thought to thin it except for down at the bottom where the fold is. These are not very wide, so have felt I needed the full thickness at the handle. I hadn't thought to shave it down on these down by the blade. That would make it more balanced as these are smaller more delicate looking knives.

On bigger knives where I need a thicker welt by the handle, I do laminate two pieces thicker and then shave it down so it just single thickness at the blade.
 
luciusx5 said:
Got a great Christmas present. A new heat treating oven. Evenheat recommends running the first firing empty. Going to do that tonight. Looking forward to working with some stainless steels.
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The wife ordered me one for Christmas, she was a little bummed when she found out it takes about 6 weeks to deliver. I'm looking forward to warping all kinds of knives.
 
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