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Could something like this be done in 3.5mm 75cr1? The grind would be obviously very short and convex. Will it handle bone chopping and at what hardness is the peak toughness for 75cr1?

0LbAb4r.jpg



I sometimes use this thread as a thread for all current projects including questions? Is that fine or should new thread be made for questions like this?
 
Fallbrook Forge said:
I FINALLY finished up what was supposed to an Anniversary(July), then a Christmas present kitchen knife for my wife. She’s quite the cook, and we’ve been using a Victorinox Forschner for about a decade now. So I figured it was time for an upgrade and for me to stretch myself as a maker.

My first kitchen knife.
10” 80crv2
Dyed claro walnut handle, blaze orange g10 liners, jade g10 pins and copper corby bolts.
View attachment 1270997 View attachment 1270998 View attachment 1271000 View attachment 1271006 View attachment 1271008 View attachment 1271009 View attachment 1271010
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That is a VERY classy knife. Well done! I hope to do the same for my wife one day.
 
Fallbrook Forge said:
I FINALLY finished up what was supposed to an Anniversary(July), then a Christmas present kitchen knife for my wife. She’s quite the cook, and we’ve been using a Victorinox Forschner for about a decade now. So I figured it was time for an upgrade and for me to stretch myself as a maker.

My first kitchen knife.
10” 80crv2
Dyed claro walnut handle, blaze orange g10 liners, jade g10 pins and copper corby bolts.
View attachment 1270997 View attachment 1270998 View attachment 1271000 View attachment 1271006 View attachment 1271008 View attachment 1271009 View attachment 1271010
Click to expand...


I had that exact knife as my first “real” knife. I based my first chef’s knives off of that knife years ago. I burned the edge thinning it out, then reprofiled it and gave it to my mother in law with a custom walnut handle.
 
Willie71 said:
I had that exact knife as my first “real” knife. I based my first chef’s knives off of that knife years ago. I burned the edge thinning it out, then reprofiled it and gave it to my mother in law with a custom walnut handle.
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nice! I did the same, used the profile of the Forschner as the base for this.

thankfully no burning of edges occurred
 
HSC /// said:
Run your grinder belt speed slow, I mean really slow it down.
If you run it like you normally do on easier steel, the belt just glazes over the Z wear.
Run it SLOW and it starts to cut like small chips.
You will see the material coming off the belt when you slow the grinder down.

I start with a 10" contact wheel and 50 grit VSM ceramic.
I cut grooves (hollow grind) with the round wheel lengthwise across the blade.
I think I use 3 of these belts for a large chef's knife.

Then flat to convex grind out the high spots.
Then a 100 grit VSM ceramic. Maybe 2 of these belts

I have a long platen and try to get lengthwise scratches on the belt grinder,
As far as finishing, I use the 3m microfinishing paper roll with honing oil, I use an old 1" wide file with leather glued on.
100 micron, then 60 or 50 and stop at 40 micron.

I takes about an hour to 90 minutes to grind a Z wear blade roughly.
Another 1-2 hours to finish it.

I don't get all the scratches out and the customer knows this up front.
Getting all the scratches out is another 2 hours....Z wear laughs at sandpaper
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I use a vsm60 grit, and slow with high pressure works well. 1750rpm with a 5” drive wheel, at the fastest. I find the VSM belts lose the initial bite quickly, but hold that 70-80% sharpness a long time. I can get 4 or 5 short knives out of one belt, but tall knives like kitchen knives glaze the belts much easier.

I never really liked the structured abrasives in simple steels, but in high carbide steels, they work much better. I need to buy some sic belts and try them.
 
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Fallbrook Forge said:
nice! I did the same, used the profile of the Forschner as the base for this.

thankfully no burning of edges occurred
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This was the first knife I made based on that profile. That was back in 2012/2013. I slimmed the tip a bit, but the belly profile is the same. I borrowed this one back from my mom, and traced it for the kitchen Kith. JT has the profile saved. I lost the handle drop in the “new” version.

100_2190 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr
 
Fallbrook Forge said:
I FINALLY finished up what was supposed to an Anniversary(July), then a Christmas present kitchen knife for my wife. She’s quite the cook, and we’ve been using a Victorinox Forschner for about a decade now. So I figured it was time for an upgrade and for me to stretch myself as a maker.

My first kitchen knife.
10” 80crv2
Dyed claro walnut handle, blaze orange g10 liners, jade g10 pins and copper corby bolts.
Click to expand...
That walnut is killer! Great job!
 
Fallbrook Forge said:
I FINALLY finished up what was supposed to an Anniversary(July), then a Christmas present kitchen knife for my wife. She’s quite the cook, and we’ve been using a Victorinox Forschner for about a decade now. So I figured it was time for an upgrade and for me to stretch myself as a maker.

My first kitchen knife.
10” 80crv2
Dyed claro walnut handle, blaze orange g10 liners, jade g10 pins and copper corby bolts.
View attachment 1270997 View attachment 1270998 View attachment 1271000 View attachment 1271006 View attachment 1271008 View attachment 1271009 View attachment 1271010
Click to expand...
That came out great. Just a idea since I have one of my best kitchen knives with the same issue is that area where the handle meets the blade and and then flares out to a little point. It's a area where the wood isn't supported and can chip easily. It also breaks the lines of the handle meeting the blade. I have plans of grinding it out but so far I haven't gotten around to it. If it breaks maybe it will get me more motivated :p. Beautiful knife for your first chef. I wish mine had looked that good.
 
FredyCro said:
Could something like this be done in 3.5mm 75cr1? The grind would be obviously very short and convex. Will it handle bone chopping and at what hardness is the peak toughness for 75cr1?

0LbAb4r.jpg



I sometimes use this thread as a thread for all current projects including questions? Is that fine or should new thread be made for questions like this?
Click to expand...

Hey bud, I don't know jack about that steel other than what a quick google search revealed. Looks like it should be plenty tough,though for a cleaver I might consider some thicker stock. 3mm will work if that's what you have.

Storm W said:
That came out great. Just a idea since I have one of my best kitchen knives with the same issue is that area where the handle meets the blade and and then flares out to a little point. It's a area where the wood isn't supported and can chip easily. It also breaks the lines of the handle meeting the blade. I have plans of grinding it out but so far I haven't gotten around to it. If it breaks maybe it will get me more motivated :p. Beautiful knife for your first chef. I wish mine had looked that good.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Not sure what you're talking about with the handle though.
 
Fallbrook Forge said:
Hey bud, I don't know jack about that steel other than what a quick google search revealed. Looks like it should be plenty tough,though for a cleaver I might consider some thicker stock. 3mm will work if that's what you have.
Click to expand...
Thanks.

It's just an Europian equivalent of 1075 with traces of chromium.

My main worry was if it's too tall (10 cm) for that thickness (3.5 mm)?
 
Dang Pablo! Those are awesome, and it looks like a heck of a lot of work!
How long did that set take you?
 
Here's another Mega Fanger in 5160 with yellow and black G10 liners, 12 degree dovetailed Wenge and Padauk scales, stainless pins and Campitas Turquoise accents. About 12" overall.
19-33 1.JPG 19-33 2.JPG 19-33 7.JPG
 
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