What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Adam,
That it one fine looking Tanto and it looks even better to me personally because you made it with a traditional tip and length.

Thanks Laurence

I figured it was time for one with the traditional tip on it :)
 
From a few pages back, keyhole integral with the engraving for those that asked. Engraving is by a very determined young lady in her early twenties named Danae Cresswell. Thanks for looking.












I am sure you hear it alot, but my god that is nice work.
 


While my grinder is in the laboratory getting brought back to life like Dr Frank's monster I'm modding this old m7 bayonet into a fancy boot knife! Once I've cut out the markers steel I think I'll either go for a full tang set up or check all the pet shops for some nice antler! (Apparantly antler is a dogs chew toy these days and some bits are really handsome!!)

Drilling the tang is prooving to be a sob! I tried to soften it twice with a blowtorch but clearly not enough, I barely got 2/3s through the first pin hole!
 
I have 2 hunters that I'm currently working on. One with a 4" blade and Maple Burl that is nearly complete. The other is it's "little brother" that has a 3 3/8" blade and will be wearing Bocote. Both have tapered tangs and distal tapered blades.

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Man, you guys are kill'n it around here. Lots of great stuff! :)


Peter- my mind is officially blown. :eek: :eek: :eek: F'ing awesome my friend!!! :cool:
 
I have 2 hunters that I'm currently working on. One with a 4" blade and Maple Burl that is nearly complete. The other is it's "little brother" that has a 3 3/8" blade and will be wearing Bocote. Both have tapered tangs and distal tapered blades.

IMAG0255.jpg

Wow, those are some nice hunters!

Is that Bocote block stabilized?
 
I got the handle impregnated.

Now the challenge of the Saya.

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East Branch Knives said:
Wow, those are some nice hunters!

Is that Bocote block stabilized?

Thank you for the compliment. I'm constantly working to improve on design and execution with every knife I make. Striving for perfection is difficult though, as I'm my own worst critic.

As for the Bocote block, no it is not stabilized. It isn't necessary or beneficial with Bocote. If you are wondering what you're looking at, it is the thin black G10 liners epoxied to the outsides of the block. I do this well in advance of the build. Rather than splitting the block first and then applying the liners, I've found this approach to be beneficial to me for a multitude of reasons. I can then split the block whenever I'm ready and roll the pieces over just like you would when book matching any set of wood scales. It dawned on me one day and I've been using this method ever since.
 
I've been finishing up a package for a Canadian Forces soldier. The inlaid sheath is nearly complete:










Then, the next two. The top one still needs a rear Blackwood bolster:



-Peter
 
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Thank you for the compliment. I'm constantly working to improve on design and execution with every knife I make. Striving for perfection is difficult though, as I'm my own worst critic.

As for the Bocote block, no it is not stabilized. It isn't necessary or beneficial with Bocote. If you are wondering what you're looking at, it is the thin black G10 liners epoxied to the outsides of the block. I do this well in advance of the build. Rather than splitting the block first and then applying the liners, I've found this approach to be beneficial to me for a multitude of reasons. I can then split the block whenever I'm ready and roll the pieces over just like you would when book matching any set of wood scales. It dawned on me one day and I've been using this method ever since.

Adam,
In my experience while it may not be necessary to stabilize Bocote, It certainly does benefit from have it professionally stabilized.

I love and use a fair amount of Bocote for my culinary knives and there is a marked increase in the moisture content that non-stabilized Bocote can pick up from folks that may not be so diligent in drying the knife off and putting it away after use. IE leaving in the sink.

So while you might not see the difference on a hunter, you would on culinary knives.
I now only use stabilized Bocote for all of my knives now so I don't have to ever worry about mixing the blocks up.

Sweet looking Hunters by the way.
 
I'm feeling a bit blue these days, but I'm staying busy in the shop.

I gave this one to my spinal surgeon as a "thank you" for keeping me on the tall side of the grass. A simple dashi in W2 with a Red Maple "onion burl" and leather pocket sheath, and a moose antler bead.






-Peter
 
Just started making my own Roll Mill based on McDonald's plans.
And 2 knife kilns with Ar inlet - gathering materials.
 
Took a short break from the three knives I am working on (trying fix the mistakes) and spent some time regrinding and refurbing this old school Forgecraft chef's knife. Flattened the tang and thinned her out big time, I think she's going to be a solid performer once I'm done with her.

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Took a short break from the three knives I am working on (trying fix the mistakes) and spent some time regrinding and refurbing this old school Forgecraft chef's knife. Flattened the tang and thinned her out big time, I think she's going to be a solid performer once I'm done with her.

tfQSVD.jpg

That looks good. If I may suggest, try to keep the height of the handle at a max of 3/4" at the heel. Any taller, and I find they get tiring on the hand in extended use, unless you have arthritis or something similar that impairs your grip. Nice knife! :thumbup:
 




Finished my first kitchen knife! I used yes for the handle and coated it in super glue for a wateproof finish.

After I sharpened it on my diamond kitchen set it pops hairs migtynwell!

I'm pleased.
 
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