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What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!
- Thread starter WillSwift
- Start date
First time Heat Treating Nitro V! 1950 for 15, plate quench, liquid nitrogen bath for an hour, 2 hrs at 325 (really 340 on my kitchen oven), twice, 62 HRC and nice and fine grain structure!
Working on this boning knife in Nitro V, stabilized maple burl handles, red liners, natural canvas micarta pins. This is one of the 3 Nitro V blades I worked on today that I also heat treated!
scales roughed out, I will rough down the tang, flatten the scales, epoxy then to the tang, shape/polish, sharpen and do my logo tomorrow! I got the order Tuesday afternoon and blanked out the blade last night, blanked 2 other blades this morning in Nitro V, heat treated them all and got this far on this one!
And I ground this one today, too! Cutting edge is around 3.75" or so, 5/32" 125cr1/15n20 at 63 HRC. Did the grinding to 400 on the belt sander, then EDM stones to 800, then 600 and 800 six sandpaper hand rub to prep for the acid etch. Gotta shape the tang/shoulders, mill out a guard slot and figure out what I am doing with the handles!
Not bad for just over a days work!
Working on this boning knife in Nitro V, stabilized maple burl handles, red liners, natural canvas micarta pins. This is one of the 3 Nitro V blades I worked on today that I also heat treated!
scales roughed out, I will rough down the tang, flatten the scales, epoxy then to the tang, shape/polish, sharpen and do my logo tomorrow! I got the order Tuesday afternoon and blanked out the blade last night, blanked 2 other blades this morning in Nitro V, heat treated them all and got this far on this one!
And I ground this one today, too! Cutting edge is around 3.75" or so, 5/32" 125cr1/15n20 at 63 HRC. Did the grinding to 400 on the belt sander, then EDM stones to 800, then 600 and 800 six sandpaper hand rub to prep for the acid etch. Gotta shape the tang/shoulders, mill out a guard slot and figure out what I am doing with the handles!
Not bad for just over a days work!
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2014
- Messages
- 450
Attempt #2 at forge welding bolsters onto an integral chef. All MIG welded and ready to forge!
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2007
- Messages
- 340
Many moons ago I made my belt grinder with plans by Jer Schmidt. It is a testament to how good the plans were that I was able to build it as a first welding project, and despite my execution being questionable at best and the grinder being kind of wonky as a result, it worked well for me. I do recommend the plans if welding your grinder together is a good option for you.
However, now I have decided to build a new grinder. I picked plans that just happen to be made by a fellow Czech guy, but that was just a coincidence. It is more of a milling and bolting together kind of project rather than welding, which I hope will suit me better. It's this grinder (no affiliation or recomendation for now, just a reference) - https://skala-work.cz/stroje-a-zarizeni/bg-011/
The plans come with dxf files for laser/waterjet cutting, so I used that option:
I started with machining the side plates for the base, clamped together as a pair in a totally non-sketchy setup:
I have no idea how long it will take to make this. The grinder from Jer Schmidt took me more than two months worth of weekends, I hope it will be less now since I have lots more equipment and experience, but I am also a lot more lazy so...
However, now I have decided to build a new grinder. I picked plans that just happen to be made by a fellow Czech guy, but that was just a coincidence. It is more of a milling and bolting together kind of project rather than welding, which I hope will suit me better. It's this grinder (no affiliation or recomendation for now, just a reference) - https://skala-work.cz/stroje-a-zarizeni/bg-011/
The plans come with dxf files for laser/waterjet cutting, so I used that option:
I started with machining the side plates for the base, clamped together as a pair in a totally non-sketchy setup:
I have no idea how long it will take to make this. The grinder from Jer Schmidt took me more than two months worth of weekends, I hope it will be less now since I have lots more equipment and experience, but I am also a lot more lazy so...
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2024
- Messages
- 186
Here’s one of my latest projects I’m working on. The blade is around 11” in length and is 8670 carbon steel. The handle is ebony with a G10 and nickel silver spacer.
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- Joined
- Oct 18, 2018
- Messages
- 8,721
I keep bumping into structure and guarding on my platen, even though there should be room/clearance...... Today, I ground away More. Clearance.
I Should of just made the thing from the start, it would of been easy enough....Next time.
I Should of just made the thing from the start, it would of been easy enough....Next time.
I am really going to regret this!!!! Big one is 13.5" blade length S90V and little is 7" blade in S90V.....post Heat Treat. I gotta stock up on coarse belts! I cut down one of my Shechita S90V blanks to make a large brisket slicer and smaller trimming knife. Used carbide drill bits to drill some holes and then cut off wheels. Truly sucked!!
But they are narrower blades, so I can put more pressure on them unless the 2-2.5" wide Shechita. I ground a normal EDC S90V blades and it wasn't nearly as bad to grind!
But they are narrower blades, so I can put more pressure on them unless the 2-2.5" wide Shechita. I ground a normal EDC S90V blades and it wasn't nearly as bad to grind!
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2011
- Messages
- 5,963
I have a compressor I need to put together and a mister system I haven't set up yet. It may be the time to get off my butt and do it! I did 4, 5" x 2" Shechita before in hardened S90V and a few drop points. The narrower drop points were much easier to grind than the wide Shechita. Just put in a belt order with TruGrit for more U936's and a bunch of coarse ceramics!
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2000
- Messages
- 1,124
This weekend I finally finished the large tool rest that has been nothing but a big piece of plate steel staring at me for a year!
IMG_0351 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
Mounted via two Reeder "pig knuckles"
IMG_0352 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
Have enough steel plate left over that I can make a small wheel profiling tool rest at some point.
Also got my RD Knives carbide platen mounted up. Used some 10mm aluminum scrap that had been drilled with a bunch of holes for testing Helicoil inserts, had to cut some off both long sides to bring it down to 2" width. Wanted to be able to mount the Contender platen cooler, not so much for cooling the platen, but for the coolant pipe, so added 3mm of steel to the back of the aluminium.
IMG_0359 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
IMG_0360 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
IMG_0364 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
I don't have a mill, I will be very happy if I don't have to saw, file or sand any more aluminum for a while!
IMG_0351 by Last Scratch, on FlickrMounted via two Reeder "pig knuckles"
IMG_0352 by Last Scratch, on FlickrHave enough steel plate left over that I can make a small wheel profiling tool rest at some point.
Also got my RD Knives carbide platen mounted up. Used some 10mm aluminum scrap that had been drilled with a bunch of holes for testing Helicoil inserts, had to cut some off both long sides to bring it down to 2" width. Wanted to be able to mount the Contender platen cooler, not so much for cooling the platen, but for the coolant pipe, so added 3mm of steel to the back of the aluminium.
IMG_0359 by Last Scratch, on FlickrIMG_0360 by Last Scratch, on FlickrIMG_0364 by Last Scratch, on FlickrI don't have a mill, I will be very happy if I don't have to saw, file or sand any more aluminum for a while!
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2023
- Messages
- 38
I mentioned some unexpected repairjobs over in the "work shops and garages" thread, and today I finally buttoned up the watercooler for my welder.
Started off as me noticing the wiring being fubar, and falling apart. Since the ~15-20cm (~6-8") short leads were already driving me nuts for the past 6-7 years, I decided to throw away the whole thing, and make new leads.
During that, I also noticed the tank being almost empty, so I checked all the fittings for leaks. As it turned out, the pump itself leaked from the input shaft of the motor, not enough to see anything on the ground that could've tipped me off beforehand, just enough that it collected in the cooler housing itself, and probably evaporating until next time. It was a close call as well, not much later, and the torch would've run dry, ruining it.
While fixing the pump, I decided to install a radiator, and a much smaller/quiter fan, as that was something on the list since forever, but never got around to it. Initially, I was planning to control the fan via thermoswitch, but once I tested it once to see if it works, I noticed it was actually quiter than the pump itself, so I decided to just let it run as long as the pump runs.
The big fan on the right in this image was really loud, so I was happy to finally disconnect it, after I put in the new fan.
Repurposed an old computer 240mm radiator, it just fits in there, almost as if it was made for the available space
Started off as me noticing the wiring being fubar, and falling apart. Since the ~15-20cm (~6-8") short leads were already driving me nuts for the past 6-7 years, I decided to throw away the whole thing, and make new leads.
During that, I also noticed the tank being almost empty, so I checked all the fittings for leaks. As it turned out, the pump itself leaked from the input shaft of the motor, not enough to see anything on the ground that could've tipped me off beforehand, just enough that it collected in the cooler housing itself, and probably evaporating until next time. It was a close call as well, not much later, and the torch would've run dry, ruining it.
While fixing the pump, I decided to install a radiator, and a much smaller/quiter fan, as that was something on the list since forever, but never got around to it. Initially, I was planning to control the fan via thermoswitch, but once I tested it once to see if it works, I noticed it was actually quiter than the pump itself, so I decided to just let it run as long as the pump runs.
The big fan on the right in this image was really loud, so I was happy to finally disconnect it, after I put in the new fan.
Repurposed an old computer 240mm radiator, it just fits in there, almost as if it was made for the available space
jfk1110
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2013
- Messages
- 26,913
Nice!!!Here’s one of my latest projects I’m working on. The blade is around 11” in length and is 8670 carbon steel. The handle is ebony with a G10 and nickel silver spacer.
A.McPherson
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
- Messages
- 2,921
Explain please...This is a cool little gadget.
Does it just hold the guard so you can grind etc?
Well, I finally got my compressor (that I got for Christmas...in 2024!!!) set up finally!!! Couldn't find the foot pedal to control the air/water, so I ordered another one, which will be here today! Hoping to set this up tonight, and get my laser and CNC into their enclosures in the garage tonight as well!
I did the rough grinding on the 7" S90V blade with a 36 grit belt I used for cleaning up the profiles and it wasn't too bad. Steel is around .110" thick, so it's stiff enough to not flex a ton. Waiting on my TruGrit order with my other coarse belts to come in.
I worked on this one yesterday in Nitro V. Based off the Benchmade mini bug out made into a fixed blade. Carbon fiber bolsters, white G10 pins and liners and some old stabilized Koa thin pieces I found left over from my kitchen knife says!
I had another one of these with blue linen denim handles, red liners, white pins and copper lanyard tube, but I ground one side down too thin into the liner so I had to make up new scales. Toxic Green liners and snakeskin micarta on this go around!
I did hand rubs with these. Came off the grind after a 400 belt and cork belt with Black Magic on it. 320 and 400 EDM stone, 220 SiC sandpaper, 600 SiC sandpaper and then Pops super finishing wheel for the finish. Each blade was around 30 minutes to do this hand rub on. I wanted to find a way to do a hand rub at a lower finish that still looks nice for a user knife and would help mask kydex scratches. These will probably get kydex pocket sheaths, and I may do leather for them as well. I basically tried to do a scotchbrite type finish, but lengthwise on a knife with plunge cuts.
I did the rough grinding on the 7" S90V blade with a 36 grit belt I used for cleaning up the profiles and it wasn't too bad. Steel is around .110" thick, so it's stiff enough to not flex a ton. Waiting on my TruGrit order with my other coarse belts to come in.
I worked on this one yesterday in Nitro V. Based off the Benchmade mini bug out made into a fixed blade. Carbon fiber bolsters, white G10 pins and liners and some old stabilized Koa thin pieces I found left over from my kitchen knife says!
I had another one of these with blue linen denim handles, red liners, white pins and copper lanyard tube, but I ground one side down too thin into the liner so I had to make up new scales. Toxic Green liners and snakeskin micarta on this go around!
I did hand rubs with these. Came off the grind after a 400 belt and cork belt with Black Magic on it. 320 and 400 EDM stone, 220 SiC sandpaper, 600 SiC sandpaper and then Pops super finishing wheel for the finish. Each blade was around 30 minutes to do this hand rub on. I wanted to find a way to do a hand rub at a lower finish that still looks nice for a user knife and would help mask kydex scratches. These will probably get kydex pocket sheaths, and I may do leather for them as well. I basically tried to do a scotchbrite type finish, but lengthwise on a knife with plunge cuts.
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