Wicked Edge Owners....

ssblood said:
If you read on the website he explains how to do a convex with it.

I ordered the 30th and expect it mid May. Long time to wait. :'( chipped my para2 today cutting a serpentine belt and am having to use diafolds with a lansky guide.

Anyone ever seen the South Park where Cartman freezes himself to wait for the new video game system? :D
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Hilarious. Please don't do that:D Time will go quick. In the mean time you have lots of good research time. You'll be an expert by the time it comes to set up.
 
Whitefox, I started a thread where I did a poor job of asking the same question. Clay responded with basically the same as Leo, leather strops to maintain the convex edge. I just added the leather 5/3.5, 10/14 (backordered), and blank leather strops with sprays to my order. I have a few convex users, including Busses that can really take a polish, with the right gear.
 
Woot! Got mine Wednesday but havn't been able to play with it until now. Time to find the most messed up knife I own and see what this baby can do.

Mark
 
Mark-Cliff..... Light touch, Don't rush, have fun.

If anybody is out and about spin by and unplug ssbloods time capsule.:)
 
It takes a few knives to break in the stones, they were kind of rough to start out. But they work just excellent! I did all my kitchen knives, two pocket knives and a hunting knife for my boss. And they are all shaving sharp. (I ran out of arm hair and am now using bunny fur.) I didn't take them down to the .25 micron level, just to the 1600 grit. I'm going to run my EDC (Delica in zdp-189) through the entire process.
 
mongolguy said:
It takes a few knives to break in the stones, they were kind of rough to start out. But they work just excellent! I did all my kitchen knives, two pocket knives and a hunting knife for my boss. And they are all shaving sharp. (I ran out of arm hair and am now using bunny fur.) I didn't take them down to the .25 micron level, just to the 1600 grit. I'm going to run my EDC (Delica in zdp-189) through the entire process.
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When I did my Acies (ZDP-189) definately took a little longer than my kitchen knives:)
Work each phase and definately use the sharpie/magnification to ensure you are getting to the apex. I found burr detection on my Acies almost impossible. The sharpie and magnification saved my A$$ and kept me from ending too soon OR removing too much material.
 
rubiconss said:
When I did my Acies (ZDP-189) definately took a little longer than my kitchen knives:)
Work each phase and definately use the sharpie/magnification to ensure you are getting to the apex. I found burr detection on my Acies almost impossible. The sharpie and magnification saved my A$$ and kept me from ending too soon OR removing too much material.
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what do you use for magnification? and what u mean by sharpie.....have my WEP coming in a few weeks
 
collioure said:
what do you use for magnification? and what u mean by sharpie.....have my WEP coming in a few weeks
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Anything will help as far as magnification. I started with a regular handheld 5" magnifying glass that you can get at any drugstore. Then I got the Lighted 100x magnifier from Radio Shack (about $10) I have since gotten a bench mounted spring arm magnifier that has 3 windows 5x,8x,10x. Anything that will enable you to see the blade edge will help.
As for the sharpie, I put three(3) lines on each side of the knife bevel perpendicular to the edge apex to where the bevel meets the flat blade. Tip/Center/Back, these marks are only 1/16 of an inch depending on how large your bevel is and I re-apply after each is removed by each step in the process. That way I know when I have removed just enough material each time AND that I have gotten to the apex evenly the entire length of the blade.
As you become more proficient you will rely on the sound of the stones against the blade and you will hear where you need to spend more time, you will also see the scratches under magnification and use those as a gauge of progress.
I still use the sharpie during a reprofile where I know I am creating a new relationship of the blade to WEPS (angle/bevel size/bevel being even tip to back)
Hope I was able to paint an understandable picture, if not, please keep asking until it becomes clear. Having fun and experiencing success is what it is all about :thumbup:
 
rubiconss said:
Anything will help as far as magnification. I started with a regular handheld 5" magnifying glass that you can get at any drugstore. Then I got the Lighted 100x magnifier from Radio Shack (about $10) I have since gotten a bench mounted spring arm magnifier that has 3 windows 5x,8x,10x. Anything that will enable you to see the blade edge will help.
As for the sharpie, I put three(3) lines on each side of the knife bevel perpendicular to the edge apex to where the bevel meets the flat blade. Tip/Center/Back, these marks are only 1/16 of an inch depending on how large your bevel is and I re-apply after each is removed by each step in the process. That way I know when I have removed just enough material each time AND that I have gotten to the apex evenly the entire length of the blade.


As you become more proficient you will rely on the sound of the stones against the blade and you will hear where you need to spend more time, you will also see the scratches under magnification and use those as a gauge of progress.
I still use the sharpie during a reprofile where I know I am creating a new relationship of the blade to WEPS (angle/bevel size/bevel being even tip to back)
Hope I was able to paint an understandable picture, if not, please keep asking until it becomes clear. Having fun and experiencing success is what it is all about :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Rubiconss has that right. Those lines act as a good guide. After several months of using the WEPS I found I didn't need the sharpie lines anymore and now I just use my hearing and the sense of touch as I paddle. It becomes clear when the edge is completed in each stage and when to move on to the next... intuition and your senses become sharpened too over time. It is really quite Zen! The big clue is as the Chinese proverb says," Slowly, slowly catches the monkey." Take your time and carefully and thoughtfully do each step and you can't go wrong.

Best regards
Leo :)
 
leomitch said:
Rubiconss has that right. Those lines act as a good guide. After several months of using the WEPS I found I didn't need the sharpie lines anymore and now I just use my hearing and the sense of touch as I paddle. It becomes clear when the edge is completed in each stage and when to move on to the next... intuition and your senses become sharpened too over time. It is really quite Zen! The big clue is as the Chinese proverb says," Slowly, slowly catches the monkey." Take your time and carefully and thoughtfully do each step and you can't go wrong.

Best regards
Leo :)
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Just beware. Unlike the WEPS the other pursuit (properly executed) and with careful slow diligence CAN end with you being Pooed in the eye. Yes, I said Poo and I do not mean the cuddly flatulent bear. Stick with knife sharpened as a hobby the other venture is embarrassing and somewhat unpleasant not to mention tough on the wardrobe.
I much prefer the s l o w steady articulation of a fine blade edge to sneaking up on a distant relative with bad manners.
 
Can I sharpen my slip joints on a WEPS? I can't seem to figure out how to get them centered and secure in the holder.
 
I've seen pictures clay took of a slipjoint he sharpened (while in the vise still) but not exactly sure how you would mount it the same everytime:confused:
 
ssblood said:
I've seen pictures clay took of a slipjoint he sharpened (while in the vise still) but not exactly sure how you would mount it the same everytime:confused:
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Thanks for the info. That was my worry, too, I couldn't figure out how to consistently get a small thin blade back in the same spot each time.
 
rubiconss said:
Anything will help as far as magnification. I started with a regular handheld 5" magnifying glass that you can get at any drugstore. Then I got the Lighted 100x magnifier from Radio Shack (about $10) I have since gotten a bench mounted spring arm magnifier that has 3 windows 5x,8x,10x. Anything that will enable you to see the blade edge will help.
As for the sharpie, I put three(3) lines on each side of the knife bevel perpendicular to the edge apex to where the bevel meets the flat blade. Tip/Center/Back, these marks are only 1/16 of an inch depending on how large your bevel is and I re-apply after each is removed by each step in the process. That way I know when I have removed just enough material each time AND that I have gotten to the apex evenly the entire length of the blade.
As you become more proficient you will rely on the sound of the stones against the blade and you will hear where you need to spend more time, you will also see the scratches under magnification and use those as a gauge of progress.
I still use the sharpie during a reprofile where I know I am creating a new relationship of the blade to WEPS (angle/bevel size/bevel being even tip to back)
Hope I was able to paint an understandable picture, if not, please keep asking until it becomes clear. Having fun and experiencing success is what it is all about :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Cheers for the advice.........sick of waiting for it....hopefully will get delivered 1st/2nd week of May
 
PG5768 said:
Can I sharpen my slip joints on a WEPS? I can't seem to figure out how to get them centered and secure in the holder.
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I've been following this thread since it started.I'd like to sharpen up a bunch of slipjoints with it too.I'm looking forward to an explanation from Clay on the above post.

BTW,I just bought one last Fri.Just waiting on shipping.

Also,If you don't mind answering this.I got the WE Gen II + 800 & 1000 grit diamond stones.
Would I be able to achieve a mirror edge with this,plus some hand stroping?
I plan on getting the 1200 & 1600 ceramics & the strops with diamond spray in the next couple of months.

Thanks
 
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