Wicked Edge Owners....

Leo-
Just be careful my friend. At our age, when shopping for glue strange things can happen.
I once sent a good buddy to pick up some special glue - never saw him again.
Next week I saw the store was advertising a "New Glue".
The resemblance was uncanny, just sayin'. :eek:
 
Big_Red said:
Sweet... I just talked with Clay and he said it shouldn't be any problem using the regular stones on a slight recurve as found on the BM 710.

Very nice to be able to get Wicked Edge on the phone and definitely a pleasure to be able to speak with Clay.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

As we talked about, I used my DMT Diafold stones to reprofile my 710. Those stones are narrower than the WE stones, and even they didn't really do a good job inside the recurve part. There were areas where only the edges of the stones would make contact with the edge of the knife. It's not going to kill your 710 to try, but I don't think you're going to get real good results with the standard WE stones. I could be wrong, but just know it wasn't easy for me to do with the Diafolds.
 
I've sharpened my ZT 0301 and 0350 and a Kershaw Blur so far. Haven't had a problem using the regular stones and creating a wire edge along the full length or with any of the other stones after. I just tried to make sure they kept contact as I moved them along the blade. I do have the curve stones and expect I'll need them for my Bump, though.

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clayallison said:
Leo,
Please make sure the glue you purchased is effective on polypropylene plastic - that is the material of the paddles. The Loctite gel I looked up is listed as not being effective with polypropylene. I would be interested to know which glue you ended up with.
-Clay
Click to expand...

Hey Clay
Thanks for the heads up on this! I haven't bought this stuff yet but I have sent off an e-mail to the producer asking the question...is it recommended and/or effective for use with polypropylene.
Good on you my friend!

regards
Leo
 
what is this angle cube ? i tried to search the thread but no answer. can someone elaborate please ?

thanks.
 
pwet said:
what is this angle cube ? i tried to search the thread but no answer. can someone elaborate please ?

thanks.
Click to expand...

It is a digital angle finder with magnetic sides. If you place your paddle on the WEPS on the blade after you have set the angles, you can place the angle finder on the paddle and read the exact angle. If there are differences in angles between the two sides, it is easy to adjust things so that each side matches pretty precisely. If one is going to use the Chosera stones, the angle cube will be necessary to set angles as each set of Choseras will wear differently.
There may be different cubes available but the one I got cost me 26 bucks US about 6 months ago. You can get one here:
http://www.compoundmiter.com/digital_cube.html

Cheers
Leo
 
leomitch said:
It is a digital angle finder with magnetic sides. If you place your paddle on the WEPS on the blade after you have set the angles, you can place the angle finder on the paddle and read the exact angle. If there are differences in angles between the two sides, it is easy to adjust things so that each side matches pretty precisely. If one is going to use the Chosera stones, the angle cube will be necessary to set angles as each set of Choseras will wear differently.
There may be different cubes available but the one I got cost me 26 bucks US about 6 months ago. You can get one here:
http://www.compoundmiter.com/digital_cube.html


Cheers
Leo
Click to expand...


One thing to take into consideration first is, if your work surface that you're setting the WE on isn't level, your angles won't match, even if they're, in fact, the same. Always check to see what angle your work surface (sharpening base) is so you can figure out if your rod angles are correct. For instance if your work surface is 1 degree to the left, and both rods are exactly 20 degrees to your edge, one side will read 19 and the other will read 21, which could lead you to believe your rods are set improperly when in fact they're just right. Gets more complicated if your work surface isn't an even angle... ie 1.7 degrees or 2.1 degrees, etc, because then your rod angles will show funky angles and make the math more complicated to figure if they're correct. Hope that makes sense, but it's something I've found to be true when working with my WE on my kitchen table and using my tilt meter on my iPod touch to read my stone angles. Best option is just make sure your work surface is perfectly level, at least from left to right.
 
Another kitchen knife is razor sharp... my first every 'tree topping' edge on ANY knife. The Henckel Santoku will pull and snap a few hairs when running the edge just above the skin on my arm. Sweet. The edge was achieved with the 1600 ceramics as final stone, no strop.

SIDE NOTE: It took me an hour and half... I timed it... to reprofile my new Benchmade Kulgera in S30V to 18 degrees on each side. An hour and a half on the 100 grit stones - geez. Then another hour or so on the remainder of the stones/strops. I am new to the system, but holy cow I didn't know if I'd ever get there. The tip and base of the blade really took some work.

I'm ordering the extra super duper course stones today.
 
Medic1210 said:
One thing to take into consideration first is, if your work surface that you're setting the WE on isn't level, your angles won't match, even if they're, in fact, the same. Always check to see what angle your work surface (sharpening base) is so you can figure out if your rod angles are correct. For instance if your work surface is 1 degree to the left, and both rods are exactly 20 degrees to your edge, one side will read 19 and the other will read 21, which could lead you to believe your rods are set improperly when in fact they're just right. Gets more complicated if your work surface isn't an even angle... ie 1.7 degrees or 2.1 degrees, etc, because then your rod angles will show funky angles and make the math more complicated to figure if they're correct. Hope that makes sense, but it's something I've found to be true when working with my WE on my kitchen table and using my tilt meter on my iPod touch to read my stone angles. Best option is just make sure your work surface is perfectly level, at least from left to right.
Click to expand...

The nice thing about this cube is that it can be calibrated to 0 degrees for whatever surface you are working on. When I am ready to measure the angles of the paddles I turn on the cube, place it on the base of the WEPS , press and hold the right hand button until it jumps to 0.00 and then it is calibrated for that surface. Now it will correctly read the angle of the paddle as it rests on the apex of the knife's edge inserted in the vise.

Cheers Mike
Leo
 
Way to go Big Red. That 50 and 80 grit stone should shave some time off a job like that...a lot of time!

Best to you mate
Leo
 
After much research, especially from this thread and forum, I ordered from Wicked Edge this morning. I ordered the Wicked Edge sharpener, Naniwa - Chosera 800 and 1000 Grit Waterstones Pack , 5 and 3.5 Micron Diamond and Balsa Strop Pack, Super Fine Ceramic Stones Pack, and a Red Granite base. I just dropped some serious coin, but I have a feeling it will pay itself off soon. Once I get really good with it, I might set up a side business sharpening knives for these hunters in the bush of Alaska. Could pay off my whole package in no time :) .

Thanks again for all the info guys, esp. Leo.

Ryan B.
 
Hi Ryan
Congratulations and welcome aboard mate. Prepare to be very pleased. Living where you are, your business idea will probably take off. People who make their livelihood from the wilds or even who just live in and about those beautiful forests will want sharp knives...they will be active users of them.

Best to you
Leo
 
I've sharpened 8 knives so far and I think I'm starting to get the hang of using the WEP. So far the best results have been on my G10 Tyrade. The D2 has taken the best polish so far.

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You can still see scratches, but its getting close to mirror-like.
 
That edge is looking great. Your stones are still breaking in so you're seeing more scratching. The more you use your stones, the more they'll make your edges shine.

PG5768 said:
I've sharpened 8 knives so far and I think I'm starting to get the hang of using the WEP. So far the best results have been on my G10 Tyrade. The D2 has taken the best polish so far.

5607727103_f6a9748f8f_b.jpg


5607726851_0b57abbc1a_b.jpg


You can still see scratches, but its getting close to mirror-like.
Click to expand...
 
That bevel size and consistency looks outstanding. As Clay said, the polish will come. The part that came as a result of your technique and the WEPS is the even consistent bevel.
That is how my Acies looks now, wasn't close when it came new.
 
clayallison said:
That edge is looking great. Your stones are still breaking in so you're seeing more scratching. The more you use your stones, the more they'll make your edges shine.
Click to expand...

rubiconss said:
That bevel size and consistency looks outstanding. As Clay said, the polish will come. The part that came as a result of your technique and the WEPS is the even consistent bevel.
That is how my Acies looks now, wasn't close when it came new.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the encouragement. I'll keep at it, I've got a few more users to go.
 
Thought I'd share my latest addition. A digital angle gage. I mounted my 0551 in the top position and set the angle on the WEP to 22 deg. and sharpened it last nite. Checked the actual angle today.

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Putting the knife in the bottom position and the gage reads 21.7 deg. (Sorry, no pic, maybe later.)

Looks like the scale is pretty accurate if you put the knife in the correct position depending on blade width.
 
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Clay, is there by any chance the Wicked Edge will be able to do convex edges in the future?
That would make the sharpener even more wicked :D

On a side note, as I wait for my Wicked Edge to arrive in the mail, its painful to see other users post their results from the Wicked Edge :(
Not saying that the pictures are bad, just can't wait to try it out.
 
This isn't Clay, but I am sure this is what he will answer...it already can. :D
If you go to his web site and look for the heading Instructions. Go there and click on Advanced...scroll down the page until you come to Creating a Convex Edge and there you are. It is easy to do but you have to have a pair of the leather strops to do it. It really works and it is easier than using sandpaper. BTW, if you have knives that already have a convex edge, the leather strops can be used to maintain the edge.

Good luck :thumbup:
Leo
 
If you read on the website he explains how to do a convex with it.

I ordered the 30th and expect it mid May. Long time to wait. :'( chipped my para2 today cutting a serpentine belt and am having to use diafolds with a lansky guide.

Anyone ever seen the South Park where Cartman freezes himself to wait for the new video game system? :D
 
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