Beckerhead Knife Making and Modification Thread

The Warrior said:
Looks like it has a Dubz size handle, haha.
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In a way i thought of you when drawing it. The handle was smaller on paper at first but i thought people like you might not be able to get a full grip on it so i extended the handle!
 
I guess I can contribute. Still making slow but steady progress on my blade. Got a little bit of contouring done last night and I am getting real close to finished with the shaping...

Like I said, not done yet, but getting closer...

 
Them scales are looking great bud!!


Just went down and drilled the holes for the handle pins and lanyard tube. Then smoothed out the ridges by hand with sandpaper and made sure the handle pins will fit snugly.

All ready to go the HT now.
 
worldwood said:
Them scales are looking great bud!!


Just went down and drilled the holes for the handle pins and lanyard tube. Then smoothed out the ridges by hand with sandpaper and made sure the handle pins will fit snugly.

All ready to go the HT now.
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A file will do that too.
got 'em countersunk? that's important.
 
daizee said:
A file will do that too.
got 'em countersunk? that's important.
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Why is that important for holes you want pins in? I read NOT to countersink holes you want pins in??? Could make the pins not fit snugly at the very least give them less to attach to?


I got them de-burred pretty good though.

Edit, well im reading to countersink and not to countersink now. I thought countersinking was done mostly for aesthetics. I can understanding removing the burr but is there other reasons for countersinking?

I just figured the steel is only 1/8" countersinking would remove a little around the hole on both sides, that doesnt leave much for the pin to attach to. But i guess the pins are really to hold the 2 scales together?

Just trying to understand WHY things are done instead of just simply doing them because i read to do them.

Thanks for the advice bud!
 
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Always countersink, from what I've been told. A few reasons. First, those sharp edges can cause stress risers during heat treat, from what I understand. Second, the pins are mainly for preventing movement along the axis of the blade. Most of the work relative to holding the handle scales on is done by the epoxy. Countersinking gives more space for the epoxy to grab a hold of the pins. In fact, you don't even want the pins to be exactly the same size as the holes. It's harder to fit, and won't result in as positive a fit, because you need space for the epoxy all along the pins so that they don't come out. There's a few more reasons, but those were sufficient for me.
 
Thanks for the info Crimson!

I went ahead and countersunk them, funny thing afterwards the pins didnt fit the holes... Its like the countersink bit tightened the hole or something... Easy fix just using the drill bit to clear the holes again.

It seems people do things different when it comes to what sized holes to drill in relation to the pin size. I find people saying to drill the same sized holes and people saying to drill them a bit larger. I went ahead and drilled both 1/8" and 9/64" just in case. All holes are countersunk as well. And the handle sanded a bit to remove any top ridges.

Not sure if there is an issue with my countersink bit or what but i found it funny that it put a small ridge or lip on top of the holes and made the pin not fit in the holes. It seems opening the outside diameter of the holes would make it fit better, not worse. Is this normal of a countersink bit, or maybe mine is dull or something?
 
I have never countersunk the holes on a tang, but I will give it a try on the knives I'm working on now. Been quite lazy about them lately, maybe tomorrow I will cut up some more steel.

GSOM, your rig for mycarta looks great but maybe a bit overbuilt? I just wrap the stack with wax paper and clamp it between 2 flat boards and c clamps, making sure to tighten them evenly; after the first clamp, I wait like half an hour and then give them another tightening turn, then forget about it for 2-3 days. To avoid hassle with the hardener, I measure out resin ounces individually in small Dixie cups and add hardener drops to one at a time, when I finish a cup then add drops to the next one and so on. I also find that doubling up on disposable nitrile/latex gloves is easier and faster as you can just slop it and spread with your fingers.
 
crimsonfalcon07 said:
Always countersink, from what I've been told. A few reasons. First, those sharp edges can cause stress risers during heat treat, from what I understand. Second, the pins are mainly for preventing movement along the axis of the blade. Most of the work relative to holding the handle scales on is done by the epoxy. Countersinking gives more space for the epoxy to grab a hold of the pins. In fact, you don't even want the pins to be exactly the same size as the holes. It's harder to fit, and won't result in as positive a fit, because you need space for the epoxy all along the pins so that they don't come out. There's a few more reasons, but those were sufficient for me.
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What he said.

yes, the countersink can raise a burr both on the surface and inside the hole. Soft metal squishes around under pressure. You might try less pressure, but I haven't experimented a lot with it. You solved the problem the usual way. Good to go.
 
Is it possible you made a tiny burr inside the hole? That could cause the hole to tighten up.
 
daizee said:
What he said.

yes, the countersink can raise a burr both on the surface and inside the hole. Soft metal squishes around under pressure. You might try less pressure, but I haven't experimented a lot with it. You solved the problem the usual way. Good to go.
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Good to know!! I was a little worried my bit was jacked up LOL

Ray Settanta said:
Is it possible you made a tiny burr inside the hole? That could cause the hole to tighten up.
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Anything is possible but the holes looked clean still, I couldnt see any burr at all except on the surface. What Daizee said makes sense now about the soft steel squishing.
 
zuluninja said:
I have never countersunk the holes on a tang, but I will give it a try on the knives I'm working on now. Been quite lazy about them lately, maybe tomorrow I will cut up some more steel.

GSOM, your rig for mycarta looks great but maybe a bit overbuilt? I just wrap the stack with wax paper and clamp it between 2 flat boards and c clamps, making sure to tighten them evenly; after the first clamp, I wait like half an hour and then give them another tightening turn, then forget about it for 2-3 days. To avoid hassle with the hardener, I measure out resin ounces individually in small Dixie cups and add hardener drops to one at a time, when I finish a cup then add drops to the next one and so on. I also find that doubling up on disposable nitrile/latex gloves is easier and faster as you can just slop it and spread with your fingers.
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Thanks, ZN...that press really didn't take that long to build, and I wanted something that wouldn't bend so the stuff would come out flat. Also by trapping one part on the other I don't have to worry juggling clamps and trying to keep everything lined up. Lets me get the cloth edges lined up easily, too. As far as the hardener goes, the 80% ratio worked well...good guess, luckily. And I did double up gloves, which I learned from the internet...it was a good idea. I used bondo spreader because I am AR about some things and didn't want to handle the canvas any more than I had to, and wanted to work the resin in as thoroughly and quickly as possible. All in all, this first batch really went off without a hitch, and came out pretty OK...although I haven't started shaping it yet, so the jury's still out. Looks are only skin deep.....but ugly goes straight to the bone.
 
iwouldhurtafly said:
I guess I can contribute. Still making slow but steady progress on my blade. Got a little bit of contouring done last night and I am getting real close to finished with the shaping...

Like I said, not done yet, but getting closer...

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What sort of technique do you use to get that contour around the first and last pin? Looks really professional, and I've been trying to get my handles to do that with mixed results
 
asmith80 said:
What sort of technique do you use to get that contour around the first and last pin? Looks really professional, and I've been trying to get my handles to do that with mixed results
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All of the contouring on those scales was done with a 4 way "hobby" file by hand. Then I cleaned it up a bit with a little bit of sandpaper. No power tools used. I need to provide an explanation in my WIP thread but what helped a lot was just plotting out my contour points by drawing on the scales in pencil, then shaping with a lot of stopping and checking the fit with my hand. Just slow and deliberate.I did some more work to them last night. I'll have to take another pic or two.
 
Thanks for the invitation. This BK16 mod is a companion piece to the Wharncliffe that is patiently waiting for its scales. It will need hours of hand polishing. The handle shape was an experiment for the drop point and for me it feels very good.
I would urge all those who enjoy modifying Mr. Beckers creations to watch the videos by Nick Wheeler and view the posts by the professional craftsmen showing their methods of hand polishing. The time and effort to achieve that level of finish is well worth the beauty of the result.
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