91bravo
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2008
- Messages
- 28,554
Luckily, it wasn’t worse, because it could have been!
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Luckily, it wasn’t worse, because it could have been!
I’ll send you some bro!Bruh. Your fatwood rich! Mail me a chunkI'll pay shipping!
Well, you must be that incompetent, inept, no hand eye coordination having axe user that arathol was talking about.Got a scar on my wrist from an unlucky hatchet bounce. Stuff happens! Thankfully, I was in my own yard and not way out in the bush.
… listen, I don’t know what parts you’re talking about, or their application, but let’s not over complicate anything. You put a round semicircle of any radius into the edge of a piece of bar stock and you didn’t make it stronger, I promise you that. There’s no cut you can make into a bar of steel that doesn’t reduce the strength in bending, period.When we cut 12560 armor into parts that go on strykers and tanks, there's radiused features. A proper transition when changing angles is the difference between a part that fails when you need it most and one that lasts a lifetime. Spreading the stress vs concentrating it. Works for vehicles that run over ieds and take rpg hits
This reminds me of the old stamped beckers, there was failures running through the stamping enough to warrant the switch to laser, I think. I have an almost 13 yo bk2 that's stamped.
You're missing the point, a poorly cut feature that isn't radiused properly can and does cause catastrophic failure. A proper radius all but makes that failure a statistically insignificant decimal place. It's why machinists use radiuses lol… listen, I don’t know what parts you’re talking about, or their application, but let’s not over complicate anything. You put a round semicircle of any radius into the edge of a piece of bar stock and you didn’t make it stronger, I promise you that. There’s no cut you can make into a bar of steel that doesn’t reduce the strength in bending, period.
I don’t believe that’s the argument he was making.… listen, I don’t know what parts you’re talking about, or their application, but let’s not over complicate anything. You put a round semicircle of any radius into the edge of a piece of bar stock and you didn’t make it stronger, I promise you that. There’s no cut you can make into a bar of steel that doesn’t reduce the strength in bending, period.
At my old place of employment, we heat treated armor plates that bolted to the bottom of the MRAP. It was critical that we radiused the holes properly, but more importantly, heat treated it properly. Too hard and the that plate becomes shrapnel. Proper heat treat, the metal plate bends and absorbs most of the energy of the blast. Soldiers’ lives were at the forefront of our work.You're missing the point, a poorly cut feature that isn't radiused properly can and does cause catastrophic failure. A proper radius all but makes that failure a statistically insignificant decimal place. It's why machinists use radiuses lol
Luckily, it wasn’t worse, because it could have been!
I am!Well, you must be that incompetent, inept, no hand eye coordination having axe user that arathol was talking about.
I love you nerd, just ribbin’ ya.I know, Mom
Sure, but you would never see the benefit of MagnaCut in a froe.Anybody know of a froe maker who uses MagnaCut?
In ESEE's case, dumbing down the heat treat so bad that it's stupid soft and overly thick helps mitigate any stress risers that might pop up.How jimping is cut matters. Rounded valleys vs V valleys, the V will cause a crack and it will have a catastrophic failure when it goes. It's ok to have jimping, just properly machined or cut jimping
What hardness range? Most armor on the exterior is 12560. Non armor is usually a514. 6in+thick v shape hulls of 12560 is blast resistant. .25 thou thick will stop most rifle rounds!At my old place of employment, we heat treated armor plates that bolted to the bottom of the MRAP. It was critical that we radiused the holes properly, but more importantly, heat treated it properly. Too hard and the that plate becomes shrapnel. Proper heat treat, the metal plate bends and absorbs most of the energy of the blast. Soldiers’ lives were at the forefront of our work.
Don't pop the esee guys bubble lolIn ESEE's case, dumbing down the heat treat so bad that it's stupid soft and overly thick helps mitigate any stress usdues that might pop up.![]()
I don’t remember to be honest, but it’s a small window of tolerance. I know they did both Rockwell and Brinell testing to verify.What hardness range? Most armor on the exterior is 12560. Non armor is usually a514. 6in+thick v shape hulls of 12560 is blast resistant. .25 thou thick will stop most rifle rounds!