The people at AKS have amazing customer service! They called me back after I placed my order and we chatted a bit about Butch and his amazing grinding skills. Experiences with 3V/ how to take care of it/Oiling the blade.... etc. Apparently I didn't need your shipping address I just needed to say ship it to Butch. And they asked about the knife and everything... I'm not a knife maker but I highly support AKS. Felt like a mom and pop kinda of customer service.
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Dagger Progression
- Thread starter petah
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- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
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- 6,212
yep good people
i always try to send a buyer that wants a kind of wood i dont have to them so they can get just the right piece there looking for
i need to get some more stuff ordered from them soon and work on the D2 i got from them for push daggers i need to make 2 of them
i always try to send a buyer that wants a kind of wood i dont have to them so they can get just the right piece there looking for
i need to get some more stuff ordered from them soon and work on the D2 i got from them for push daggers i need to make 2 of them
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
- Messages
- 6,212
here you go
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
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- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
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even shaped G10 acn be fairly grippy if not sanded to high grit and buffed
btw got confirmation on the4 AKS order
btw got confirmation on the4 AKS order
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2006
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- 2,418
I like blasted G10, it has a nice grip to it. Canvas micarta blasted also seems to come out grippy.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
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- 6,212
wow steels here
just got the mail and was shocked to see it
just got the mail and was shocked to see it
I was thinking That I'd be able to do all the finishing work but I have no time 
Sooo... here's a few idea's I may like to get done....
Handle: on further research I've settled on black micarta (The type with light Grey highlights) And Black(dosent matter on the screw colour) Torx screws. with a super grippy texture... Something like the the ribbed strider handles or Busse snakeskin (I think it is, same idea but not the same pattern)
I was thinking I want to make it thin without losing gripping strength.
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq334/petahwong/Idea2.jpg
Up to you you this one....
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq334/petahwong/nanana.jpg
Also I was thinking of a guard but I don't know... I need something removable. And The idea I have is complicated ( I'll get my engineering friend to CnC it out of Ti maybe) But it's like the guard slides onto the knife from the handle direction and uses the same screw holes as the handle to hold it on... then the handle slab will be mortised to accommodate it.... No soldering here and it will be 10000000000 times stronger than anything ever.
I'm still wondering about the blade finish... I want to blast it but... I was thinking grey gun kote? I can do a satin? maybe a nice matt finish. But for the non flat area I do not know.... I like The grind lines with a polish on them... Like my old puma hunting knives... Look's and feels awesome! ( I'll go for the cheapest/most durable... I can always send it out to get a finish re-done)
...And there is no one here That i think can sharpen a knife well (Vancouver) and Chuck Raved about your grinding/sharpening.... So i don't want to cut myself finishing off the blade I'll let you finish it maybe...
And with further reading about Cyro (fitz mentioned this early on)... A dag should be tough... Edge retention is less important. So maybe skip a cryo? But I'ts up to the HT'er (Reading the cryo thread I started... I do plan on hard use... stabbing through tatami mats wrapped around green bamboo)
Sooo... here's a few idea's I may like to get done....Handle: on further research I've settled on black micarta (The type with light Grey highlights) And Black(dosent matter on the screw colour) Torx screws. with a super grippy texture... Something like the the ribbed strider handles or Busse snakeskin (I think it is, same idea but not the same pattern)
I was thinking I want to make it thin without losing gripping strength.
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq334/petahwong/Idea2.jpg
Up to you you this one....
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq334/petahwong/nanana.jpg
Also I was thinking of a guard but I don't know... I need something removable. And The idea I have is complicated ( I'll get my engineering friend to CnC it out of Ti maybe) But it's like the guard slides onto the knife from the handle direction and uses the same screw holes as the handle to hold it on... then the handle slab will be mortised to accommodate it.... No soldering here and it will be 10000000000 times stronger than anything ever.
I'm still wondering about the blade finish... I want to blast it but... I was thinking grey gun kote? I can do a satin? maybe a nice matt finish. But for the non flat area I do not know.... I like The grind lines with a polish on them... Like my old puma hunting knives... Look's and feels awesome! ( I'll go for the cheapest/most durable... I can always send it out to get a finish re-done)
...And there is no one here That i think can sharpen a knife well (Vancouver) and Chuck Raved about your grinding/sharpening.... So i don't want to cut myself finishing off the blade I'll let you finish it maybe...
And with further reading about Cyro (fitz mentioned this early on)... A dag should be tough... Edge retention is less important. So maybe skip a cryo? But I'ts up to the HT'er (Reading the cryo thread I started... I do plan on hard use... stabbing through tatami mats wrapped around green bamboo)
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2007
- Messages
- 3,121
I think a guard, be it separate or cut from the steel, is a must for this kind of knife. How wide is the steel? I know that in your drawing you have a straight handle, but Butch could probably grind something with a little more shape for a better grip quite easy. (I don't want to speak for him, though)
There is defiantly somebody who can put an edge on the knife in Vancouver, It is a pretty big city and there are lots of sharpening services and knifemakers not on BF there.
There is defiantly somebody who can put an edge on the knife in Vancouver, It is a pretty big city and there are lots of sharpening services and knifemakers not on BF there.
The steel should be around 1 and 1/4 and about .210 thick. Edit: The steel sheet I got is 11.1 by 3.1 by .218 I believe
I read it once that a guard is not necessary... I forgot who it was... John Ek I think... He greased his hand and stabbed a board and his hand did not slip.
I read it once that a guard is not necessary... I forgot who it was... John Ek I think... He greased his hand and stabbed a board and his hand did not slip.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
- Messages
- 6,212
1.25 inch width at the handle will be wide i think
perhaps get a paint stir stick and shape it to what you thing is good and see how it feels
perhaps get a paint stir stick and shape it to what you thing is good and see how it feels
- Joined
- May 7, 2008
- Messages
- 93
When I was a kid we used to make that exact design out of those big horse files. Stock removal.. do it slow and you can keep the temper.
I have almost that exact drawing on some paper from when I was 10 or so years old....man.. talk about flashback..
You can't throw it or pry with it as it will shatter... but it will cut anything you have and will be a really nice knife.
You can get the files for free from the garbage of your local welding shop... as they use those super big files also... and throw them away after they get dull.
If you find a welding testing shop they go through them pretty fast..
Would save you a lot of money. We used to dip the handle in that plastic tool dip.
But. .like I said.. you throw it at a stump and it will break in half...but boy will it take a scary edge.
Anyway.. I am sure you want something way more nice.... but was fun remembering building those things.
I have almost that exact drawing on some paper from when I was 10 or so years old....man.. talk about flashback..
You can't throw it or pry with it as it will shatter... but it will cut anything you have and will be a really nice knife.
You can get the files for free from the garbage of your local welding shop... as they use those super big files also... and throw them away after they get dull.
If you find a welding testing shop they go through them pretty fast..
Would save you a lot of money. We used to dip the handle in that plastic tool dip.
But. .like I said.. you throw it at a stump and it will break in half...but boy will it take a scary edge.
Anyway.. I am sure you want something way more nice.... but was fun remembering building those things.
- Joined
- May 7, 2008
- Messages
- 93
btw.. in answer to your original question about people working with 3V.. if you search the internet you can find several folks who do that.. and they may not be in this forum. I contacted several for my own purposes.. and they even recommended contacting spyderco to see who they use.. there are lots of options.
Funny enough.. the engineers at Crucial highly recommend 3V over most all other steels.. even over the S ones (stainless). You can call them and they are great people.. they will be happy to discuss your application and the 'best' steel. Also be aware some of the more higher end steels are not available in 'easy to use' form...aka.. they are darn thick... they are very nice people to talk to..
Good luck..
Funny enough.. the engineers at Crucial highly recommend 3V over most all other steels.. even over the S ones (stainless). You can call them and they are great people.. they will be happy to discuss your application and the 'best' steel. Also be aware some of the more higher end steels are not available in 'easy to use' form...aka.. they are darn thick... they are very nice people to talk to..
Good luck..
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