Fehrman knives

What others have said in regards to the satin finish, even if it's done with belts/scotchbrite on a machine you still need to get all the rough grinding marks and blemishes off the blade, this extra work adds up in terms of time spent making the knife and consumable materials. The coated finishes can basically be taken straight from rough grinding and coated, at most they might bead blast to help the coating stick better.
 
Thanks for all of your replies!:thumbup:

It will probably be a LC due to its "allroundness", if I decide to have a Fehrman blade.
I still have to check out my other options.
 
Oh wow, glad I checked out this thread, but it's gonna be hard on the wallet.

I'm feeling the fighters here. Not sure if I'll just go the Cold Fury or step up the 10" Hood (says Hunter in the name, but I think otherwise!). Wish I could hold the Hood.

EDIT: Monetary interests and the Cold Fury win! Still wish I could hold the Hood, though :C
 
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When I got a First Strike and Last Chance from Eric, the first thing I did was try to slice tomatoes with them. I never had a blade that thick that was able to do it. The tomatoes would just get crushed.

Imagine my amazement when, for the first time in my life, a quarter-inch thick chopper made nice clean slices through the tomatoes. I stared at the edge trying to figure out the geometry, because it's deceptive. The grind didn't look like it was thin enough to slice like that. But yet it did, and very well!

I then took them out and abused them in every way I could think of, short of detonating explosives. The edges held up to chopping in frozen wood, other wood, and the blade, after being driven into a tree with a log, supported my full weight without even feeling like it was flexing - it was just solid as a rock. I then bashed it out of the tree laterally with the log (against the flat side), and it snapped out of the tree, fully intact with no damage. It was ridiculous and dangerous to do those things, so please don't try it at home.

But man, those knives can withstand anything that a person might put them though in the wilderness! :thumbup: And, they actually CUT! Like a knife should....
 
Sag,

It was a few years ago. I'll check to see if I have copies on CD-R, but it was also about 7 or 8 computers ago too. I'm not hopeful I still have the pics. But I might get lucky.
 
Woodroez said:
Oh wow, glad I checked out this thread, but it's gonna be hard on the wallet.

I'm feeling the fighters here. Not sure if I'll just go the Cold Fury or step up the 10" Hood (says Hunter in the name, but I think otherwise!). Wish I could hold the Hood.

EDIT: Monetary interests and the Cold Fury win! Still wish I could hold the Hood, though :C
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Just an FYI, Woodroez, the Hood Hunter is actually a woodsman's knife, though it might look like something else. It's named for the man who designed it for Fehrman, Ron Hood, who happens to be a well known and highly respected outdoorsman. He actually has his own forum here on the intarwebz called "Hoods Woodz" or more often called the Hoodlums.

http://www.survival.com/

Lots of good people and information over there. :thumbup:
 
Brian Jones said:
Sag,

It was a few years ago. I'll check to see if I have copies on CD-R, but it was also about 7 or 8 computers ago too. I'm not hopeful I still have the pics. But I might get lucky.
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No big deal, Brian, I was just curious. :)
Sounds like the Ferhman is a fantastic knife. :thumbup:


Sag.
 
I've got a Peace Maker on order, so I'll be able to give some idea soon. The only negative I can see so far is that they are not to quick on replying to emails.
 
I want to know what you think about it when you get it. I think the peace maker is one of the best ergonomically designed knives of it's size that I've ever held. The steel really holds an edge, and is easy to sharpen too! Good luck!
 
Excellent, 2 reports due! :D

Seriously, though, Fehrmans are one of the *few* fixed blades (Dozier being another) that I didn't feel the need to thin the edge out when I got it. I really dislike "too thick" edges, yes, even on big knives, and usually thin them out considerably when I get them on my Edgepro. None of my Fehrmans needed it.
 
samhain73 said:
Satin is the bare steel, with a satin sandpaper finish, 400 grit. The black is epoxy coated.
Black for rust resistance if you can't/dont want to oil your knife, satin is for easier cutting through dense materials.
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Just a thought...how do you oil between the tang and the handle?:confused:
Can you remove the handles to get in to tang for oiling?
I would like to have coated tang under the handles and all the way to the choil, if it was possible;) The blade itself should be satin.
 
The handles are easily removed with hex bolts.

There's also a rubber liner under the slabs on top of the steel to keep out water.

B
 
bluka94 said:
Just a thought...how do you oil between the tang and the handle?:confused:
Can you remove the handles to get in to tang for oiling?
I would like to have coated tang under the handles and all the way to the choil, if it was possible;) The blade itself should be satin.
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If you want a coated tang and a satin blade, your only bet is going to be to buy a coated blade, and then satinize it yourself. If you look around on here, I'm sure you'll find info on how to do that. Or, you could contact Ban (usually hangs around in the Busse forum) and speak with him about doing the satin job and stupid sharp (easy to maintain) convex edge on it, too.

Matter of fact, Brian_T can probably help you with plenty of into on satinizing AND convexing.

Otherwise, you'll hafta go either full satin or fully coated.

J
 
Brian_T said:
The handles are easily removed with hex bolts.

There's also a rubber liner under the slabs on top of the steel to keep out water.

B
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That's funny, Brian. You got me by 2 minutes. Hope you're well, brother.

Btw...I'll be sending you an email later today or tomorrow. Keep your eyes open.
 
LOL! Busy. As you know SCHOOL'S OUT!!!

:)

Stripping off the finish on a coated Fehrman is EXACTLY the same as stripping a Busse or any other coated knife except you can just unscrew the slabs on the Fehrman instead of drilling out the hollow pins.

I stripped a Thru-Hiker a while back and it takes about 10 minutes to get the coating off and then a few hits on a Scotchbrite belt brings up a really nice satin finish. I only did the bevels on mine and left the "natural" finish on the flats and handle.

Just FYI, Eric was not as excited about my stripped Thru-Hiker as I was--something about messing with perfection. :D

Let me see if I can find a pic for you.

EDIT:
I re-ground the butt end of my Thru-Hiker after I stripped it. That's why this one may look a little "off" to those of you who've seen the normal model.

ThruHiker.jpg


Oh yeah, getting the epoxy stripper in a clean line is going to be tough unless you leave the slabs on. A rough edge on the coating may result in peeling down the road if you use it nice and hard. Leaving the slabs on will protect the coating under the liner and give you a precise line exactly shaped like the handles. You'll lose the spine/grip (top and bottom) coating with the stripper but those are areas you can easily reach with a little oil.



B
 
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