Fehrman knives

My latest addition to my user knives was a Fehrman Shadow Scout (satin).

userknives005.jpg


I have taken the knife on several hikes and a overnighter, as well as using it in the kitchen and am really liking it as a all around utility knife. Its size makes it ideal for a hiking belt knife, I can wear it all day and not feel like it is dragging or gettinmg in the way. If I could make one alteration to it, I would add another 1/2" to the handle length. I am getting used to it, but I do have smaller hands, so anyone with larger hands would find it uncomfortable. Overall I am very happy with it though and can see it is going to get a lot of use.
 
Ok, all of you Fehrman-fans...
Is Fehrman-knives "line"-producted or handmade-knives?

And is there a possibility of customizing an allready existing blade design? Like other measurements on thickness and length of a blade? Does Fehrman do this for customers?
 
The blanks are cut by a cnc machine, and then they are hand-ground. As far as I know, Fehrman does NOT customize knives. You can give Eric a call, but I'm pretty sure they're a production-only outfit.

If you want to go custom, maybe you should look at Busse Combat knives, but be prepared...customs run about 100$ an inch, and they STILL work with one of their production blanks first. Check www.bussecollector.com for a good catalog of Busse knives over the years.

For the money, though, you won't beat a Fehrman. And if you do, it'll laugh at ya and ask for more. ; )

What exactly are you looking for Bluka? Maybe we can suggest something in line with what you'd like.

Also, check out Rat Cutlery and Ranger Knives. Also very good knives, and may offer something closer to what you want. I believe Justin at Ranger Knives also does customs as well.
 
I was thinking of blade design of Shadow Scout or First Strike with blade size: 6" x 1.60" x .25".
But, as I understand it's not possible to order a custom measurements :(

I was onto K9 Dingo but it's difficult to get in contact with Dan and Tom and get some answers. I assume they are very bussy at the moment fighting to finish and ship out K9s.

It's same steel type CPM 3V. Take a look and tell me what you think of these...http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517851

I have looked at various knives during my search for a knife for strictly military use (whatever need may occur) and this is my list so far:
CRK Pacific http://www.chrisreeve.com/pacific.htm They refuse to leave off serrations along the edge and I lost my interest in it.
Our swedish Fällkniven A1 http://www.fallkniven.se/a1f1/a1_en.html Always an option...
SOG Gov-Tac http://www.sogknives.com/store/S21T.html
Busse Satin Jack http://www.zknives.com/knives/fixed/busse/bussesjcg.shtml alternatively BTAC
Buck/Simonich Raven Legacy http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=BU895
Gryphon M-30A1 Combat Knife http://www.cutleryshoppe.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6846&MMP=1013882068
Ontario RAT-7 D2 http://www.knivesplus.com/ontario-rat7-knife-qn-rat7d2.html
Zero Tolerance Model 0100 http://www.knivesandtools.com/en/pt/-zero-tolerance-model-0100.htm
Wilson Tactical Models (Tactical Fighter) http://www.wilsontactical.com/wt-knives.aspx Model 5 or Model 8. but they have an overwhelmed backlog and I don't have time to wait...
RC-6 http://www.ratcutlery.com/rc-6.htm
Bravo-1 http://www.davesknifeworld.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=14884

And than we have K9 (above) and Fehrmans Last Chance or Cold Fury (this one looks so cool and more military...). I don't know...if I need chopping ability I'll use an axe...
If you have some spare time than you copuld take a look at these knives and post an opinion on eash one...I would be greatful.. You seem to know quiet a lot about knives. But keep in mind the knife will be used within military, only...

OT: Good Lord, how tired I am...It's ONLY 03:30 in the morning :( But, that's the price you'll pay when you go to the gym for 2 hours and than to work for 9 hours. And it is not an office (read: gay) job.:D Real work in car factory...manufacturing my beloved Saab :thumbup:
 
Actually, I'm not NEARLY as informed as a lot of the people on here, but I do enjoy reading/learning, so I know a little bit. :thumbup:

From what I've heard/read, the Fallkniven are EXCELLENT knives. Won't go wrong with that.

I wouldn't really put SOG anywhere near a lot of the other makers you've listed. They just don't have the reputation for quality products that Fallkniven, Ranger, Busse, Fehrman, Bark River and some of the others have. Those names I just listed are considered at the top of the production knife industry.

You won't go wrong with either the Bravo-1, or the RC-6 either. Both Bark River and Rat Cutlery offer fantastic warranties, as do Ranger, RAT, Busse and Fehrman. I don't know much about the Buck/Simonich, or Gryphon, though I'm more likely to trust the Buck than the Gryphon because I know Rob Simonich was highly regarded in the industry, while I've never heard of Gryphon before.

As for the Zero-Tolerance, that design is Ken Onion's, and Ken is renown as a great knife maker. The Zero-Tolerance knives are production knives, but the folders are said to be built like tanks, and some of the most heavy-duty folders out there. I would venture to say the fixed blades would be quality knives as well.

Wilson Tactical is an unknown to me, though I've heard the name before. You would hafta get that info from another member here, as I can't offer any.

I will say this about Ontario, though...do NOT order one of their knives. Those designs belong to RAT Cutlery, and for awhile, Ontario was overseeing manufacture of those knives. Recently, Ontario became a little "free" with quality assurance standards, and as a result (combined with RAT Cutlery's start as their own manufacturer), has lost the privilege to continue using RAT's name. They have, however, decided to try and sue RAT Cutlery, claiming the line as their own. Many people have vowed not to support Ontario, and instead buy their knives directly from RAT, who designed and named them to begin with. If you want a RAT knife, buy from RAT cutlery. You won't be able to get a 7"er yet, but their RC6 is a GREAT knife for the money, backed up by two great guys and a fantastic warranty.

AS for the Satin Jack Tac and BATAC, some would argue that Busse knives are the best out there. I personally own a BATACLE (and a variant) and love the knife. They feel solid enough for chopping/batoning if needed, but will slice well and shave the hairs off your arm with a good edge. (Both of mine came shaving sharp). Also, you can find a BATAC or an SJTAC for a reasonable price on the Busse/Swamprat exchange. Busse's warranty is also considered one of the best in the industry. If it breaks, they'll replace it. Period.

As for K9, Tom Krein and Dave Koster are well respected as grind-masters. Both make awesome knives, and this collaboration between them has the potential to wield some fantastic results. Only problem is that it will be difficult to get a Dingo because there are so many people already waiting for them. If your name is not on the list, you may be waiting a while. They will be great knives when they're finished and in people's hands, though. If you do end up getting one somehow, I'm sure it will really meet your needs.

What I think, ultimately, is that the Last Chance seems to be the best bet for you. Don't worry about the aesthetics of a satin knife so much. The black coating will be way more practical for you, as out in the field, you won't have the time, nor the inclination to worry about protecting the steel in your blade. Also, the LC's tip is a great balance between a more traditional bowie clip, and a modified drop/tanto point. It will be sufficiently pokey to get through clothing, or other fibrous materials, as well as metal or other hard substances. It will also slice very well when you need it to. The only cut it probably won't do too well is the push cut, but you won't see much need for that in military environments.

The Last Chance will be pretty easy to pick up (there's one on the trade exchange right now), and it will do everything you need it to. You won't be dissatisfied with it. And chances are you will end up buying more knives later anyway. Now that you're here...you're stuck...just like the rest of us. ;):thumbup:
 
New to the Fehrman knives, looking at getting a few: Last Chance, Peace Maker, Shadow Scout, Thru Hiker, and Cold Fury.
 
Now that you're here...you're stuck...just like the rest of us.
:eek:

First of all...Thank you very much for detailed answer!!:thumbup:

Alright then...Let's see which ones stay, what they are made of and their thickness...

Fällkniven A1 - Laminated VG10 - 0.24"
Bravo-1 - A2 Tool steel - 0.215"
RC-6 - 1095 Carbon Steel - 0.188"
Buck/Simonich Raven Legacy - S30V - ¼” full tang at the handle and then tapers down to an 1/8” at the tip.
Zero Tolerance Model 0100 - CPM3V Tool Steel with Tungsten - 0.190"
K9 Dingo - CPM3V - 0.25"
Last Chance - CPM3V - 0.25"
Cold Fury - CPM3V - 0.25"
Satin Jack - INFI - 0.187" (at least most of them)

Ok, the knife I need does NOT have to be maid of stainless steel. I more appreciate if they are not brittle. I would like a thicker blade with little weight in it...Out there in the field you will not play with food trying to slice it so it looks beautiful, but cut it in pieces that you can put in the mouth.
Good penetration ability through clothing, skin, muscles and ribs without fear of breaking the blade. Good cutting ability through skin, muscles and possible thin clothing and wires. It will keep the edge good and without chipping. Absolut NO serrations along the edge. Serrations on the top can I live with, but not a must. Good grip on the handle, don't want it to ratate in the hand. I always think of screwdriver...it's much easier to handle one with thicker handle.
Which knife fulfils these requirements?

I have a question about 1095 carbon steel. What is its preferences? Are blades made of it brittle, is it stainless, does it keep edge well...And other things you know about it...

My appologies if I have been too straightforward when describing what the knife might be used for...You never know what kind of situation you might get in and I want to be able to count on that knife.

Thanks,
//bluka94
 
Had a conversation with a knife collector/seller once, and he railed against laminated steels. I wasn't able to understand what his qualms were, but he seemed pretty adamant against it. Maybe someone here can expound.

As for chipping/rolling, there have been extreme torture tests where cpm3v has been made to chip. I've never done it, and I doubt it would happen under regular, or even hard use. The test I saw was pretty freaking nasty.

The rumor about INFI is that it does NOT chip. I have seen rolled edges, but those were produced by pretty extreme use. If you go to www.knifetests.com, you can see what a torture test of a fat flat battle mastress by Noss. It has been that website's best performing knife to date. INFI is tough steel.

You'd also be well-served by tool steels like A2.

I'm not so knowledgeable about 1095, but I'm sure someone like Brian_T or TexasTonyDobbs can tell you a bit. TTD is a big proponent of Rat Cutlery, though lately he seems to really love the Busse Family knives (you could also check out Swamprat knives and Scrapyard Knives as well, though they are made of their own proprietary steels, and not INFI.)

Like I said before: for the money, you won't beat a Last Chance, but if you don't mind spending more for a top-quality knife and/or you also like the aesthetics, go with a Busse. The SatinJack tacs can be had for a decent price, and yu would LOVE a BATACLE. (.25" inches of satin INFI, with a convex cutting edge--very easy to maintain).

Go ask some questions in the Busse forum and you'll learn a lot. The vibe there can seem someshat cultish, but it's only because those people LOVE their knives. You'll get plenty of answers and see lots of cool stuff.

All in all, it seems like you still have some research to do. Don't rush into anything. Take your time and look around a little more. Keep asking questions, and then try to find other, more objective information as well.

I may get flamed for this (because he's been banned from BF), but check Google for Cliff Stamp's knife tests, and you'll learn a little bit more about the steels and some of the knives you're looking into.

Good luck.

Jason
 
I've been at Busse forum a lot, here at BF looking for a SJ. Many of ETS were for sale for $300-350. And racently I've started to look for BTAC as well.

How important is the thickness of a blade? I can't get rid of thoughts of blade thickness:o

I'll take a look at Cliff Stamp's tests as well... I'm not in hurry (yet), but I would like to have things clear so when time is in I can just order a knife...

Thanks for answering!:thumbup:
 
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Thickness should be selected based on your usage. Thicker knives pry better, and chop better for their size because of the mass. The grind is just as important as the thickness, a fully distal tapered .25" flat ground bowie will have an extremely thin cross section and won't pry that well. A .125 thick blade with a shallow saber grind will pry better because it's thicker near the tip where most folks tend to pry.
 
Thickness should be selected based on your usage. Thicker knives pry better, and chop better for their size because of the mass. The grind is just as important as the thickness, a fully distal tapered .25" flat ground bowie will have an extremely thin cross section and won't pry that well. A .125 thick blade with a shallow saber grind will pry better because it's thicker near the tip where most folks tend to pry.

And so things become even MORE complicated. ; )

For what you want, Bluka, .25" is probably a great thickness. You don't NEED it that thick, but it will give you a sense of security and the knife will feel fantastically sturdy, maybe even a bit overbuilt. At that thickness, I would say it doesn't really matter whether you go with a full-height grind or a sabre-grind. You probably won't want to go with a hollow-grind unless you anticipate doing mostly cuttin/slicing chores with it.

Full-convex (or zero-edge) is probably going to be difficult to find on this type of knife unless you go with a custom. I don't think even the BRK Bravo-1 is full-convex, and they seem to love that edge geometry. (Regardless, you could do this by hand if you wanted to).

Most of these chunkier combat-type knives will come with asymetrical edges, so unless you specifically want a different type of edge geometry, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
 
Recently I got Fehrman's Last Chance (and a Thru Hiker 2 months before). Let me show you a few photos of the Last Chance, sometimes in combination with another knives for comparison and/or suggested combo.


My Fehrman's Last Chance with books and ...

LastChance_A017.jpg


LastChance_A015.jpg



Himalayan Imports Ang Khola kukri (5160 steel, differentially hardened) with Last Chance - that is, IMO, a perfect combo for wildest outdoors:

LastChance_A001.jpg


Ang Khola, Last Chance, and Fallkniven F1 for comparison - F1 is also ideal as a buckup and/or small field knife:

LastChance_A023.jpg


LastChance_A004.jpg


LastChance_A014.jpg


LastChance_A032.jpg


The next photo: HI Ang Khola, Buck/Strider ML 890, Last Chance, SOG Field Knife (BG-42 steel):

LastChance_A052.jpg


LastChance_A012.jpg


The next photo: Thru Hiker with a small Sebenza - a perfect (my) EDC:
LastChance_A070.jpg


Enjoy,

Franco
 
And so things become even MORE complicated. ; )

For what you want, Bluka, .25" is probably a great thickness. You don't NEED it that thick, but it will give you a sense of security and the knife will feel fantastically sturdy, maybe even a bit overbuilt. At that thickness, I would say it doesn't really matter whether you go with a full-height grind or a sabre-grind. You probably won't want to go with a hollow-grind unless you anticipate doing mostly cuttin/slicing chores with it.

Full-convex (or zero-edge) is probably going to be difficult to find on this type of knife unless you go with a custom. I don't think even the BRK Bravo-1 is full-convex, and they seem to love that edge geometry. (Regardless, you could do this by hand if you wanted to).

Most of these chunkier combat-type knives will come with asymetrical edges, so unless you specifically want a different type of edge geometry, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

You're master of complications :D
I'm greatful for all answers I got. But it doesn't seem like any of the "candidates" from my list meet my requirements.
I'll post my question in manufacturers forums, asking just about their knives.

So if any of you general moderators see my posts...I just want you to know that I'm NOT spaming.

Thanks,
//bluka94
 
I've got a last chance coming in, I'll report back.

Excellent, 2 reports due! :D

Seriously, though, Fehrmans are one of the *few* fixed blades (Dozier being another) that I didn't feel the need to thin the edge out when I got it. I really dislike "too thick" edges, yes, even on big knives, and usually thin them out considerably when I get them on my Edgepro. None of my Fehrmans needed it.

Just received my Fehrman (Last Chance) and all I can say is WOW! :eek: This thing is a massive 1/4" handful of one of the toughest steels out there, and is my official new 'punch my way out of an M1 Abrams' knife. Not that I would have the need, but it's strangely comforting to know I probably could. :D

In all seriousness, this knife should handle any task I could throw at it. The handle is very comfortable, and fits my medium sized hand well.

I think Eric has achieved a good balance between being able to pry open a car door and still maintain decent slicing ability. The flat grind tapers down nicely from 1/4" to an edge that should slice well and remain strong for the rougher tasks. Here is an interesting sidebar. I was looking at the blade and noticed what I thought was a change in the grind thickness along the blade. I could even feel it when running my fingers along the grind. Emailed Eric about it and he said it where they transition from a flat grind at the back of the blade to a more convex grind towards the front that maintains more steel in the tip area. I've not seen that before, thought it was a pretty good idea.

Anyway, if you are in the market for what appears to be one of the toughest blades around that can actually slice, I don't see how you can go wrong with a Fehrman.

Oh, here are the obligatory photos:

IMG_1918.jpg


IMG_1921.jpg
 
Nice lookin' knife. From the picture it really looks like the blade thins down quite a bit :thumbup:

If you have a scale around, I'd love to know how much it weighs.
 
Nice lookin' knife. From the picture it really looks like the blade thins down quite a bit :thumbup:

If you have a scale around, I'd love to know how much it weighs.

15 oz. by my postal scale. 5.5" blade, 11" OAL.
 
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