Inkosi

RamZar said:
Comparison of Chris Reeve Knives Inkosi, Small Sebenza 21 and Mnandi.

[TABLE="class: grid, width: 500"]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]Inkosi[/TD]
[TD]Small Sebenza 21[/TD]
[TD]Mnandi[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Blade Length:[/TD]
[TD]2.75 inches[/TD]
[TD]2.94 inches[/TD]
[TD]2.75 inches[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Blade Thickness:[/TD]
[TD]0.128 inches[/TD]
[TD]0.125 inches[/TD]
[TD]0.090 inches[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Handle Length:[/TD]
[TD]3.875 inches[/TD]
[TD]3.94 inches[/TD]
[TD]3.625 inches[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Weight:[/TD]
[TD]3.1 ounces[/TD]
[TD]3.0 ounces[/TD]
[TD]1.5 ounces[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Thumb Studs:[/TD]
[TD]Dual[/TD]
[TD]Single[/TD]
[TD]None[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Click to expand...


Thanks, Ram.
I like the small 21s and Mnandis very much, but this new one seems made for me.
 
I am pretty excited about this being a little smaller than the 21.. I will wait for the KA exclusive though, this would look awesome on a CF scale... :)
 
Im wondering why Chris just didnt name the 25 an "Ikosi"? I would def call a 25 a "Chief!" The new one coming out is basically a small 25, but will not be called that? Could be a little confusing to newer CRK addicts. Any thoughts(not trying to hi jack Dallas)
 
I still wonder why no one will comment with knowledge or thoughts on whether the Inkosi has the ceramic ball like the 25/Umnum?
 
VolGrad said:
I still wonder why no one will comment with knowledge or thoughts on whether the Inkosi has the ceramic ball like the 25/Umnum?
Click to expand...

Prob cause no one knows for sure, but my guess is that it does. Highly doubt Chris would not implement that into this design.
 
nyefmaker said:
With the original sebenza design, when you reassembled the knife, it was just tighten it and go. With the zaan and 25 ( ti-lock to I believe ), you have to set the blade tension. If you like it stiffer, you can do so, if you like it a tad looser, you can. All this is achieved with less than 1/4 turn.
Click to expand...

I must be doing something wrong. I have read this and am not doubting anyone but it just doesn't seem to be the case for me and 21s. I have taken down a couple and it seems I do still have to set the tension by adjusting the pivot screw tension. What am I doing wrong?
 
VolGrad said:
I must be doing something wrong. I have read this and am not doubting anyone but it just doesn't seem to be the case for me and 21s. I have taken down a couple and it seems I do still have to set the tension by adjusting the pivot screw tension. What am I doing wrong?
Click to expand...

Hard telling. A normal, in-spec Sebenza 21 with the pivot bushing...you snug the pivot screw all the way down.



Also, while it is possible to assemble a 21 like a sandwich (or a normal folder), the only proper way is to assemble the handles, and slide the blade/washer/bushing into the front of the handles.
 
Tripton said:
Hard telling. A normal, in-spec Sebenza 21 with the pivot bushing...you snug the pivot screw all the way down.



Also, while it is possible to assemble a 21 like a sandwich (or a normal folder), the only proper way is to assemble the handles, and slide the blade/washer/bushing into the front of the handles.
Click to expand...

I assemble and disassemble my 21s this way and I reasonably tighten them with no problems.. :)
 
I've done both reassembly methods and for both if I tighten the pivot screw to what I feel is moderate pressure/tension the blade is tough to open and I have to back it off a bit.

Maybe I'm just too strong. :D
 
Whitty at USA Made Blade is also taking them. It's not on his site but he has an order in and is starting a wait list. I am on it.
 
VolGrad said:
I've done both reassembly methods and for both if I tighten the pivot screw to what I feel is moderate pressure/tension the blade is tough to open and I have to back it off a bit.

Maybe I'm just too strong. :D
Click to expand...

Shouldn't matter, seriously. The pivot bushing prevents overtightening (at least it should). The blade should drop with some resistance when the lockbar is held away from it. It shouldn't just drop freely.
 
Another feature that I haven't heard mentioned, but was shown to me, is the fact that the lock bar will be more robust by having the lock bar cutout made at a diagonal, widening at the bottom of the lock cutout. This is due to some complaints that it is possible to wiggle the lock bar side-to-side when the blade is not locked opened. Not sure how/why anyone would complain about this, but the new lock bar will be wider at the bottom than it is at the top (where it engages the blade), resulting in zero wiggle that way. It shouldn't be visually disturbing to OCD types as it appears that the angled clip will cover that portion of the cutout. I love the incremental, thoughtful, purposeful way that Chris innovates!
 
Inkosi%20introduction_zpsxvm9rtno.jpg


Is it just me, or does the lockbar/clip look like someone crossing their fingers? As luck would have it, they'll probably sell a thousand of these with no 'crossed fingers' required.
 
VolGrad said:
I've done both reassembly methods and for both if I tighten the pivot screw to what I feel is moderate pressure/tension the blade is tough to open and I have to back it off a bit.

Maybe I'm just too strong. :D
Click to expand...

I think you have to take down some of your bronze washers. Go easy..
 
@VolGrad: I was also wondering about the ceramic ball, but the spec sheath from CRK does not mention it - so I came to the conclusion it has not.
As for adjusting the tension of a Sebie - you are not alone. ;)
red mag
 
Thanks for the lock side pics. __ :D __ What would be an educated prediction on when these will be reaching vendors for sale?
 
I would like to know this too. I would hope within 3 months but maybe that's a bit optimistic? I've got a preorder in with on of the dealers so hopefully I get a chance at the first batch.
 
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