The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase

t seems even more incredible for the Russian market. My only guess is that some custom configurations are in greater demand by wealthy overseas collectors, provoking bid wars
That would make sense based off the guy I saw writing down the 26k bid
 
mitchnola mitchnola , I'm not familiar with that particular knife, but have seen a few Shiro "Customs" and believe that some of them have gone for 5 figures, though I don't recall seeing any in the 20's. Inflation can be a Bear, though. 😏

I used the term custom in quotes as my definition of that term in my career as a builder and master carpenter relates to a home built to order for a specific customer--a Custom Home. For Shirogorov, while there may have been knives built to a certain spec for a buyer--read, "custom ordered"--their terminology refers specifically to "Sergey's Customs", their highest end knives, designed and built entirely by Sergey himself and available by auction.

Shiro's various categorizations include two levels of Production Knives--the "entry level" equivalent to what was once the One Bear tier with G10 handles, SRBS pivots without underlays, steels such as Elmax, and no jimping or interior milling; their "upper level" of those feature MRBS with underlays, pricier handle materials and steels, with jimping and/or blade extracts plus interior milling, The latter were equivalent to the former Three Bears or R Series knives. Newer within Production Knives is the Ursus category, so far only inclusive of the Quantum NL.

Next up are the Collaboration Series with makers such as Tom Mayo, Dmitry Sinkevich, RJ Martin, Brad Southard, and others plus their "Custom Division Knives" which are more elaborate versions of their higher end production knives. Both these categories generally have been priced in the higher teens, short of 2K. From what I've observed, the collabs initially market for higher prices right after selling out, but drop in value later. I believe Custom Division runs are more limited and those knives may hold their value better.

My only upper tier Shiro--the CF Russian Doctor Death Tom Mayo collaboration--went for around $1800 new. I got a generously good deal from a friend here for around three quarters of that.

As to "Sergey's Customs", well, if there's a market of one, then there's probably a market of two or more. I guess something unique like that would hold its value or appreciate. Probably not a knife to take to the job site if you wanted to get your money back out of it....
 
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mitchnola mitchnola , I'm not familiar with that particular knife, but have seen a few Shiro "Customs" and believe that some of them have gone for 5 figures, though I don't recall seeing any in the 20's. Inflation can be a Bear, though. 😏

I used the term custom in quotes as my definition of that term in my career as a builder and master carpenter relates to a home built to order for a specific customer--a Custom Home. For Shirogorov, while there may have been knives built to a certain spec for a buyer--read, "custom ordered"--their terminology refers specifically to "Sergey's Customs", their highest end knives, designed and built entirely by Sergey himself and available by auction.

Shiro's various categorizations include two levels of Production Knives--the "entry level" equivalent to what was once the One Bear tier with G10 handles, SRBS pivots without underlays, steels such as Elmax, and no jimping or interior milling; their "upper level" of those feature MRBS with underlays, pricier handle materials and steels, with jimping and/or blade extracts plus interior milling, The latter were equivalent to the former Three Bears or R Series knives. Newer within Production Knives is the Ursus category, so far only inclusive of the Quantum NL.

Next up are the Collaboration Series with makers such as Tom Mayo, Dmitry Sinkevich, RJ Martin, Brad Southard, and others plus their "Custom Division Knives" which are more elaborate versions of their higher end production knives. Both these categories generally have been priced in the higher teens, short of 2K. From what I've observed, the collabs initially market for higher prices right after selling out, but drop in value later. I believe Custom Division runs are more limited and those knives may hold their value better.

My only upper tier Shiro--the CF Russian Doctor Death Tom Mayo collaboration--went for around $1800 new. I got a generously good deal from a friend here for around three quarters of that.

As to "Sergey's Customs", well, if there's a market of one, then there's probably a market of two or more. I guess something unique like that would hold its value or appreciate. Probably not knife to take to the job site if you wanted to get your money back out of it....
Thanks for all the info

P.S. I too am a carpenter and builder. Unfortunately I don’t have the tools in my hand as I just run/supervise jobs but I miss it greatly! And I d get to use my knife more! 🥹
 
what was once the One Bear tier with G10 handles, SRBS pivots without underlays, steels such as Elmax, and no jimping or interior milling

BTW, I've just remembered that for whatever reason the COAs for F3 Outdoor and F95 Zero still bear the mark (both knives manufactured in 2023 and sold directly through the maker's website):

F3-vs-F95.jpg


May be there's a stockpile of paper not to be wasted just because of the fact that 1-2-3 Tier labelling has become outdated.
 
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I'm not familiar with that particular knife, but have seen a few Shiro "Customs" and believe that some of them have gone for 5 figures, though I don't recall seeing any in the 20's. Inflation can be a Bear, though. 😏

I don't remember which one went for 2+ mRUB, but the final bid for this Stellar was 1.4 mRUB, which was roughly 17 kUSD in May.

Blade -- Smoky mirror S125V
Handle -- Zirc Mokume, Titanium
Pivot -- DRRBS

Stellar.jpg
 
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Yes it’s nice. I wish they would still do knives on washers. About two weeks ago I had a possibility of buying Hati CF M390 on washers but hesitated too long..
 
I just grabbed a Hati with CF in S30V on washers and I’m excited to see how it compares to the Hati-R with MRBS. I’ve yet to own a flipper on washers but have had a couple of Sebenzas that could be flicked open pretty easily.

That’s a pretty cool one with RWL steel!
 
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Seeing F forest. 's orange Hati on washers this morning got mine out the Russian drawer and into my pocket today. It wasn't but 5 pages back that B Bacchus and I were posting about the bushing pivot on that model and I put up some pics of mine disassembled for cleaning. Interesting that Jsega51 Jsega51 would ponder the comparative action of this flipper on washers with a bushing pivot with some of his Sebenzas which flicked open easily. (FWIW, all my Sebenzas and other CRKs all flick out easily as I get rid of the flouro grease, tune and polish the washers, and re-lube with W10 NanoOil.)

Anyway, my Hati came to me in rough shape as the 5th or 6th owner and I spent a lot of time getting it right. The longer I've had it--6 years now--after the original work the better it flips (it was terrible when it first arrived as it had been treated poorly by at least some of the previous owners). It'll push-button now, though I prefer light switching anyway, and it flies open with a light quick forefinger pull. It's not a free-dropper but, unlike a CRK, it'll shake or forefinger flick closed. It has some of that same hydraulic smoothness as a CRK, though it's definitely freer than most all of my Reeve knives. The Sebenza of flipper's? Yup.

1688690574421.jpeg

1688690611026.jpeg

1688690661816.jpeg
 
Interesting that Jsega51 Jsega51 would ponder the comparative action of this flipper on washers with a bushing pivot with some of his Sebenzas which flicked open easily.

I’ve been traveling back in time by slowly combing through this thread from the start and have seen the comparison of the washer knives as being the some of the best Shiro’s and the “Sebenza” of flippers, it really has me curious now. I was talking with SVTFreak SVTFreak earlier today about his Hati on washers and he agrees with those statements and also says the action is just a bit different, more of a hydraulic feel like the CRK knives.
 
(FWIW, all my Sebenzas and other CRKs all flick out easily as I get rid of the flouro grease, tune and polish the washers, and re-lube with W10 NanoOil.).

I don’t mean to derail or sidetrack this thread. Do you have a link you can PM me on how to polish and tune the CRK washers? I feel like I have worked open/closed my LG Sebenza thousands of times and still far from happy with it. Thank you!
 
So after 2 months of EDC (except the 4th of July obviously 😎) and using it to full potential, I noticed my back screw loose on my Hati Gen. 3. I was able to tighten with my finger nail and is seems fine for now.

What is the recommended method for tightening Shiro hardware if you don’t have their tool? I’m not going to use a screwdriver or anything like that, I was thinking a penny or nickel? Something that won’t mark up the hardware. Also locktite? Is this normal for a heavy user ?
 
So after 2 months of EDC (except the 4th of July obviously 😎) and using it to full potential, I noticed my back screw loose on my Hati Gen. 3. I was able to tighten with my finger nail and is seems fine for now.

What is the recommended method for tightening Shiro hardware if you don’t have their tool? I’m not going to use a screwdriver or anything like that, I was thinking a penny or nickel? Something that won’t mark up the hardware. Also locktite? Is this normal for a heavy user ?
Here's a link to my post here from May '22 with a few thoughts and pics regarding tools for Shiro PacMan screws.

I'm no fan of thread locker and only use it if I have a screw that chronically backs out. Actually, I have a couple Shiro's with pivots that loosen slightly over time and I'm fine with just applying a thumbnail tweak if needed for centering or blade-play adjustment. I'd rather that than putting the hair dryer or heat gun to them to disassemble when cleaning.
 
Here's a link to my post here from May '22 with a few thoughts and pics regarding tools for Shiro PacMan screws.

I'm no fan of thread locker and only use it if I have a screw that chronically backs out. Actually, I have a couple Shiro's with pivots that loosen slightly over time and I'm fine with just applying a thumbnail tweak if needed for centering or blade-play adjustment. I'd rather that than putting the hair dryer or heat gun to them to disassemble when cleaning.

Blue locktite has served me well for this sort of thing before. It can still be undone without crazy force but definitely keeps a scew from backing out. I was more concerned with best tool to use for tightening. I have not desire to do a disassemble unless it’s absolutely needed. Definitely not without proper tools

I like the electrical tape over the bit idea tho. Thanks for the link!
 
Blue locktite has served me well for this sort of thing before. It can still be undone without crazy force but definitely keeps a scew from backing out. I was more concerned with best tool to use for tightening. I have not desire to do a disassemble unless it’s absolutely needed. Definitely not without proper tools

I like the electrical tape over the bit idea tho. Thanks for the link!
Up until recently, all Shiro's, like some other Russian makers, had free-spinning pivots, so the screw and receiver side would spin together if thread locked when trying to disassemble. I believe Shiro will be changing that model by model when going to a new Gen now. For knives with one side mechanically held, breaking blue LocTite is easy. As my older Shiro's are all free-spinners, I avoid thread locker, but I do so on most all my knives unless absolutely necessary. My Tarbargan loosens easily and quickly, so that's one I do have glued. Clear nail polish will also work to lightly resist movement.
 
So after 2 months of EDC (except the 4th of July obviously 😎) and using it to full potential, I noticed my back screw loose on my Hati Gen. 3. I was able to tighten with my finger nail and is seems fine for now.

What is the recommended method for tightening Shiro hardware if you don’t have their tool? I’m not going to use a screwdriver or anything like that, I was thinking a penny or nickel? Something that won’t mark up the hardware. Also locktite? Is this normal for a heavy user ?
Just use a penny, man. Won’t mar it. Even the right tool will if used incorrectly. A penny for the small ones and a nickle for the bigs will always get ya right.
 
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