The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase

jacobconroy75 jacobconroy75 , I’ve had a few screws loosen over time on my Shiros so it may not be solely due to the previous owner, most recently was the pocket clip screw on my F95 Zero and the rear frame screw of my Halloween Hati (both purchased new). I’ve had two pivots on other Shiro’s that operated best being barely snugged up, so the pivot screw loosened frequently. Being familiar with CRK’s I’ve simply used the thread lock that is supplied with the adjustable pivot knives, my Inkosi had some with it. I also just lube the ball bearings with the CRK grease as well by putting a little dab on my finger and rubbing the surfaces down.

I found using too much grease obviously slows the action way down and I hadn’t used much at all so just a very light film works best. I’ve ran Shiro’s dry too and can’t tell much of a difference but I figured a light layer of grease/lubricant is best.

ui7B2QM.jpeg
 
Jsega51 said:
jacobconroy75 jacobconroy75 , I’ve had a few screws loosen over time on my Shiros so it may not be solely due to the previous owner, most recently was the pocket clip screw on my F95 Zero and the rear frame screw of my Halloween Hati (both purchased new). I’ve had two pivots on other Shiro’s that operated best being barely snugged up, so the pivot screw loosened frequently. Being familiar with CRK’s I’ve simply used the thread lock that is supplied with the adjustable pivot knives, my Inkosi had some with it. I also just lube the ball bearings with the CRK grease as well by putting a little dab on my finger and rubbing the surfaces down.

I found using too much grease obviously slows the action way down and I hadn’t used much at all so just a very light film works best. I’ve ran Shiro’s dry too and can’t tell much of a difference but I figured a light layer of grease/lubricant is best.

ui7B2QM.jpeg
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Good stuff. I have a NIB Halloween too, and the rear screw was also found to be loose two days in. Now it spins freely, even though it's as tight as I can get the non-captured setup. Since it has wonky lockbar issues, maybe I need to figure out how to get the rear screw tight. My Hati is the other knife that I think I can sometimes feel something moving in the handle. I know something's...not right, but haven't figured out what. The knife works well though.

I alway clean current CRKs out and set them up with thin oil, so maybe that's the thing to try first. The only way to know is to try both grease and oil. Thanks!
 
seems like the more I follow this thread, the more common the Shiro issues are out of the box -- mainly with rattles, loose screws, lockbar issues, etc.

I just got my Quantum gen 2 out of the safe and flipped it a few times and I remember why I'm sending it back to Russia and waiting 6 months.. the action is incredible. Can't lie, blows the Arius action out of the water.

But the issues are disappointing for this price point.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
Good stuff. I have a NIB Halloween too, and the rear screw was also found to be loose two days in. Now it spins freely, even though it's as tight as I can get the non-captured setup. Since it has wonky lockbar issues, maybe I need to figure out how to get the rear screw tight. My Hati is the other knife that I think I can sometimes feel something moving in the handle. I know something's...not right, but haven't figured out what. The knife works well though.

I alway clean current CRKs out and set them up with thin oil, so maybe that's the thing to try first. The only way to know is to try both grease and oil. Thanks!
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These little things are where I hate a knife on these style of bearings because it’s not as easy as just pulling the scale off and dealing with an issue, those little balls add a whole new level of care to the process. If the rear screw feels like its bottoming out before seating the frame tight, I would just remove the slotted part and file/sand some material off of the end to shorten it up slightly allowing it to fasten tighter.

I‘ve thought I’ve had a screw or part loose before and have found the little balls make noise while moving inside the cage so you can hear them when shaking the knife but usually when I’ve felt like something was a little loose, it’s been the rear frame screw or the pocket clip screw.
 
Jetlau3 said:
seems like the more I follow this thread, the more common the Shiro issues are out of the box -- mainly with rattles, loose screws, lockbar issues, etc.

I just got my Quantum gen 2 out of the safe and flipped it a few times and I remember why I'm sending it back to Russia and waiting 6 months.. the action is incredible. Can't lie, blows the Arius action out of the water.

But the issues are disappointing for this price point.
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To be fair, I'm a bit of a Karen about my toys and to make things worse, I don't know what I'm dealing with in Shiro world. I'll get it figured out with the help of you good folks.

I still like 'em. :)
 
Jsega51 said:
These little things are where I hate a knife on these style of bearings because it’s not as easy as just pulling the scale off and dealing with an issue, those little balls add a whole new level of care to the process. If the rear screw feels like its bottoming out before seating the frame tight, I would just remove the slotted part and file/sand some material off of the end to shorten it up slightly allowing it to fasten tighter.

I‘ve thought I’ve had a screw or part loose before and have found the little balls make noise while moving inside the cage so you can hear them when shaking the knife but usually when I’ve felt like something was a little loose, it’s been the rear frame screw or the pocket clip screw.
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I think you've described what I could not on the Halloween, and that course of action sounds like a good one.

Though I was determined not to monkey with my Shiros, it isn't going to turn out that way. Hehe.
 
Jetlau3 said:
But the issues are disappointing for this price point.
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I havent had issues per se and have plenty of my CRK knives experience screws loosening up, this transcends into plenty of other tools/toys as well so it’s just something to deal with and it’s a part of basic maintenance. It took 2 years for the pocket clip screw to loosen on my F95 zero so it wasnt exactly a QC issue, that knife had probably been flipped 5k times lol.
 
Jsega51 said:
I havent had issues per se and have plenty of my CRK knives experience screws loosening up, this transcends into plenty of other tools/toys as well so it’s just something to deal with and it’s a part of basic maintenance. It took 2 years for the pocket clip screw to loosen on my F95 zero so it wasnt exactly a QC issue, that knife had probably been flipped 5k times lol.
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yah thats not what I'm really referring to honestly. loose screws can be loctited. I'm talking about rattles that can't be fixed, frame locks without enough lock tension to where the lock fails with a spine tap on the back of your hand. I've never seen a CRK do that and I've had every model in multiple years.

It's akin to the striders constantly developing lock stick. I sent an SNG back to them 2 times for larger stop pins.

These are just QC issues. makes it worse that to warranty it needs to go back to Russia and you have to wait until the next blade show to get it back 4-6 months later.
 
Jetlau3 said:
I'm talking about rattles that can't be fixed, frame locks without enough lock tension to where the lock fails with a spine tap on the back of your hand. I've never seen a CRK do that and I've had every model in multiple years.
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It’s taken me a bit to catch up on this thread and when I saw your post on this issue, it made me think of the time I first took my F95 Zero apart. The knife was functioning perfect prior, but when I reassembled it, it locked up real early and nowhere near as positive as it should have been, plus it felt sticky on the release. I took the front scale off and turned the stop pin so the marks lined up with the tang again and the issue went away. I wonder if this is a similar case with that Quantum.
 
Jsega51 said:
It’s taken me a bit to catch up on this thread and when I saw your post on this issue, it made me think of the time I first took my F95 Zero apart. The knife was functioning perfect prior, but when I reassembled it, it locked up real early and nowhere near as positive as it should have been, plus it felt sticky on the release. I took the front scale off and turned the stop pin so the marks lined up with the tang again and the issue went away. I wonder if this is a similar case with that Quantum.
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Holy crap. That very well could be. I noticed that there were "battle marks" on the stop pin in places that the blade was not currently touching. I guessed that the stop pin was rotating (like they do in Hinderer Autos). I'll put that idea on the check list too.
 
Jsega51 said:
It’s taken me a bit to catch up on this thread and when I saw your post on this issue, it made me think of the time I first took my F95 Zero apart. The knife was functioning perfect prior, but when I reassembled it, it locked up real early and nowhere near as positive as it should have been, plus it felt sticky on the release. I took the front scale off and turned the stop pin so the marks lined up with the tang again and the issue went away. I wonder if this is a similar case with that Quantum.
Click to expand...
That’s super interesting . If you ever have yours apart again would love to see a photo . Didn’t notice this on nick shabazzs take down video of the quantum 2 .

CCKS is next week and I already filled out the warranty paperwork with recon1 so I’ll prob send this one back .

Bit scared of the loose bearings to be honest .
 
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