First knife build need help

Well while I'm waiting on the steel to get back in stock anyone have any unique knives they'd like to post? More so just curious what's possible when you let your imagination run... And to help me from going stir crazy waiting :smile:
 
That handle size should be more than enough to give you some leverage on the blade. For chopping a little wrist action and a longer grip will save you from trying to muscle it. And if you ever do start into some hunting use, a little bit (not grossly so) overextended handle can lever some joints loose should you have to quarter with just that blade. (Hey, I've seen an elk quartered with a Shrade sharpfinger... not that I would want to do that...)

You asked for imagination run wild? Here is the knife that was used as a step. It is the culmination of a lot of work and testing. Destructive testing actually. Which was fun, but heartwrenching at the same time. It is as far out there as my mind has gone (with knives anyway...) Truly a form following function knife.

It is a modified karambit/tanto blade fighter. 5/32" tail to tip along the spine. Differentially HT 1095 steel. Detachable scales and completely disassembleable (made up word?) sheath. We do a lot of lab entries and wet decon. The whole story is on my site if you're interested.
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On the boards here during my WIP thread it got labeled the shark knife. As it resembles a shark, obviously. It has since been cristened the MAKO. Or the Modern Attack Knife for Operators.

Cheers.
-Eric
 
Man, I'd love to just hold that knife Eric. It's got a lot of things that I can't stand on other knives, tanto blade, serrations, protrusions from the spine, etc..., but for some reason, as a package, it works for me looks wise. Just wish I could feel what it feels like to hold.

How did you settle on those serrations? They look very Chris Reeve to me. It's very rarely seen, but I prefer serrations to be at the tip end on a combination edge. Ever tried that configuration?

I need to have a look at your site. I have a lot of questions about the MAKO. :)
 
Impressive knife and nice handling in the video on your site. Thought for sure the but would make it difficult but you make it look effortless. Maybe I completely missed it but I couldn't find the story of it being used as a step.
 
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That story isnt on there yet. It is in SWAT service with the Jefferson County Combined SWAT team in Denver Colorado. That was relayed to me just recently as being done 'in real life.' We, being me and a couple fellow SWATties and DT instructors came up with the design. We used it as a step during destructive testing and proved it would work... I didn't think it would actually happen with the finished product that I spent a gazillion hours on! (Jaw drop...) But it did. And its stilk ticking and hair popping sharp.

I don't suggest anyone handle a fully sharp knife the way I did in the video, but honestly the thing handles like a dream. It has dead 50/50 balance front to rear and side to side which really helps. We made a dull aluminum trainer and did some fighting with it. While not as balanced as the steel model, it was devastatingly brutal... Impact weapon, good penetration from the tip, etc... I am truly biased, hence why I am sending it on its year long pass around... But to me it is everything the ESEE's and HEST's aren't. I teach Krav Maga, where we fight instinctively. This blade's positive retention allows you to 'take risks' and go for slices and strikes you wouldn't normally due to fear of losing your blade. But your finger isn't trapped like a traditional karambit. Trust me, someone who knows what they are doing will take that trapped finger in a traditional karambit and bake your biscuits... We made some retention and fighting videos, but we screwed up by being in department PT attire or entry gear. Chief said no no on posting them. Will have to reshoot next visit.

I HATE serrations on a knife. But, I was out-voted on that so I had to hand file the dang things into my nice crisp dead straight blade edge.. boo.
They are handy for cutting paracord. Thats about it IMHO. Otherwise I call them a crutch for someone who doesn't know how to sharpen a knife... And I also hate protrusions and tanto blades... But I swore to let form follow function no matter where that took it.

Sorry to hijack the thread. Can you tell this one's my baby? I am dying to get this thing into a lot of hands. May have to waterjet some blanks out of pocket to get that done. As soon as all reports are in, I will at least make a couple more (mine sans serrations...)

And yes, I have piddled with serrations up front, but just can't embrace teeth on a nice clean blade. Kinda like finding fangs behind Angelina Jolie's lips...

Thanks for the compliments.
 
Luckily I wasn't there... I'd have probably had a ND into someone's foot.

In testing it was no biggie cause we were going to break ithe test blades anyway.
 
Right on. I'm with you on the no serrations. Honestly can't think of anything a properly sharpened plain edge can't do that a serration can.
 
They do come in handy sometimes. Cutting rope or webbing...

The rest of the time they just screw up a good looking blade IMHO...
 
serrations are legit if the entire knife is purpose built for cutting rope or something and is entirely serrated.

I agree with you on combo edges... "just can't embrace teeth on a nice clean blade. Kinda like finding fangs behind Angelina Jolie's lips..." LOL, yup!

the other downside to serrations is that they give freaking nasty cuts that take forever to heal (or so I've heard), while a nice clean blade will only give you a clean cut that will heal fairly well.
 
I rather like the idea of Angelina with fangs. :)

Some tactical knives (Spyderco hawkbill knives like Civilian and Matriarch) come fully serrated. I know that if I had to get cut I'd rather it be done with a plain edge.

Maybe it was part of the plan but those Spyder-Edge knives are intimidating enough to even look at that I'd run. Fast.
 
I have one of the Ka-Bar TDI knives they marketed to LEO's a few years ago. Don't ask me how, but I wound up as part of some beta testing group for them. One just appeared in the mail back in 05-06, somewhere back there... It was a smaller one with fully serrated blade. They designed them originally to ride on our inner belts and just protrude enough to be handy. (I will avoid my DT instructor instinct to preach about its location and being another weapon to defend against take-away...) I will say it looked nasty and would cut like stink... I did in a few seatbelts with it and it made quick work of them.
I never had to use that knife defensively but imagine it would have left a nasty wound. But pretty? Not even close...

What's the chicks name from those tweener/emo vampire books/movies? Twilight right? Lets just say I wouldn't kick her out of bed for eating crackers...
 
For LEOs I can see where it could be slightly handy but for anything outdoors seems like more of a burden than anything else. And I think Kirsten Stewart is her name. Only reason I know that is because a friend of mine took another buddy if mine to see it telling him it had vampires and werewolves in it. I still have both their man cards in my possession to this day.
 
LeaderofthePack said:
For LEOs I can see where it could be slightly handy but for anything outdoors seems like more of a burden than anything else. And I think Kirsten Stewart is her name. Only reason I know that is because a friend of mine took another buddy if mine to see it telling him it had vampires and werewolves in it. I still have both their man cards in my possession to this day.
Click to expand...

Article 7, ch 2, subsection 1 pg 4; ...covers full lifetime revocation of one's man card for any movies involving vampires, werewolves or other monsters where a love story is the key plot element. You're good to go.
 
There was another bandsaw thread running a minute ago. I was always told to shoot for mid 20's for my work (1/8-5/32"). But forget who mentioned what sounds like a good rule of thumb. 3 teeth in the thickness of stock you are cutting, I.e. 1/8" stock = 24tpi blade.

The goal is to have enough teeth in the steel to keep from taking too big a bite and blowing the teeth off or too many teeth will burn the teeth off the blade, overheat the steel, and cut like poop.

I don't use my bandsaw much anymore (but I probably should cause its safer...) but steady pace and cutting oil go a long way.

Edit: Credit where credit is due. The Count...
 
Yet another newbie question. While I've been waiting for my steel I've decided to truly experiment with different blade and handle profiles and maybe it's just me but is it possible for the handle to make it easier to increase the speed of a swing? Only reason I ask is since my knife will see it's share of being a chopper and with the heaviness of the blade any little tweaks I can do to the handle would be a lot easier than modifying the blade.
 
Eric i never used a Bandsaw either. Im a country boy always farmed raced cars etc etc. Used angle grinders to cut everything. Always got the good dealt disc. Yesterday i had one fly apart. Ripped the whole side of my glove out. Must have been flat against my hand when it went by. I was lucky only receiving minor scrapes. A Bandsaw now moved to no1 on my priority list.
 
LeaderofthePack said:
Yet another newbie question. While I've been waiting for my steel I've decided to truly experiment with different blade and handle profiles and maybe it's just me but is it possible for the handle to make it easier to increase the speed of a swing? Only reason I ask is since my knife will see it's share of being a chopper and with the heaviness of the blade any little tweaks I can do to the handle would be a lot easier than modifying the blade.
Click to expand...

A little bit if extra length can help you get some wrist action into it, but there isn't a whole lot you can do to speed it up. My argument would be to use a machete or hatchet for anything you need tip/head speed with, but a knife sometimes has to be pressed into service.

For that, I have taken to using a lanyard mounted in a more forward positon like the chopping contest guys do with a bit more handle length. That lets me swing hard without concern for losing grip, and as stated the little extra length helps with wrist action. But even that is more for my choppers than campers. I think in a smaller knife comfort, or rather lack of it can impede speed more than anything. In other words, if you feel like the blow is going to hurt or you are gonna lose the knife you certainly won't swing as hard as you could...

And Crank, I have had disks go too. With the guard in place and proper PPE its been a non-issue. I never ever ever grind without a guard. If you can see the edge of the disk, it can see you. But yes, after all the recent discussion about it I have wisely started back to using my bandsaw more like a good boy. I still prefer to use a grinding disk (not cut-off wheel) to finish roughing in. Much cheaper and lasts longer than my pricey norton blaze belts.

Cheers!
-Eric
 
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