My new wilderness knife

[Steel-Junky]

I'm not going to argue with you, as you're clearly set in your ways. I'm just going to point out the irony in saying I'm spreading misinformation when I say a thin edge carves better than a thick one (and suggesting people have come to this conclusion due to ignorance) then in the same paragraph admit a "beefy edge" will preform poorly at carving.:jerkit:

That's not what you said... You said "A thick edge can be razor sharp, and slice paper very well, but for cutting other things like wood, geometry is as important as being sharpness. The larger the angle the farther away the spine has to be held from what ever youre cutting, and that affects performance." This is not the same thing as saying "a thin edge carves better than a thick one". I would have agreed with that. You implied that a thick edge was not good for cutting material like wood... this is simply a work of fiction. A Thick edge works very well at CUTTING wood. It is however poor at finely carving it. And I agreed with that. But the chores that being able to finely carve wood are useful in are not very useful to me. Making fine little wood carvings don't matter to me. I don't NEED to be able to make a spoon, or a bowl, or pipe, or a wooden duck, or a candle holder, or a civil war soldier figurine. I need to be able to cut wood (not whitle it [Spelling]), I need to be able to notch wood, split it, chip it, make shavings, strip it, and quarter it... and a thicker edge geometry does this just fine all day long. It also works well at cleaning game and breaking bone, and a beefier blade which would support a thicker edge has a million an one uses that a little thin whispy blade does not. So if you're going to argue the finer points of the pros and cons of thin vs thick edge geometries... at least get right the statement you're trying to make. Because implying that a thicker edge cannot cut wood well is simply false.

 

[Mentor]

Ugh. Not this again. The poor horse is dead, already!

If you like a thick edge, use it. If you like a thinner one, go for that. Get out there, use your knife, take some pics, and report back to us on what worked, what didn't and why.

All the best,

- Mike

 

[1Tracker]

Wonder why most Busse's come with such a lackluster edge??

I mean I get that with a big chopping blade you don't want a fine edge that will mess up when you slam it into some oak or something.

On the other hand stuff like the Game Warden, or the BAD or that SAR, those sizes are really using knives.

The BAD is about the same overall size as the Fallkniven F1, maybe a bit smaller. The SAR is about the size of the Fallkniven S1 correct? Both of those are significantly cheaper but about 10 times the effort at the factory seems to have gone into the edge on them

I have a Game Warden and it's around the size of a Bark River Mini North Star but while the Mini North Star has a really great edge it took me hours of work to put a decent edge on my Game Warden which cost twice the price??

For those of you who think I'm a BRKT basher hear this....I think the BRKT Mini NorthStar's handle/ scales are much more comfortable to use than a GW. I use my Mini more than the GW:foot: Agree, the Mini came razor sharp and keeps a good working edge:thumbup:

I HAD 6 SAR5's but had to sell all of them off, save for one. They all went for $200 plus shipping. I see other bushcraft types going for that, so it was cheap for those who grabbed them from me. It's certainly handle biased and needs a working edge put on it for more than just heavy use. I'm leaving it convex for heavier work and using the Mini for everything else until I feel the 5 is the do all. I would like the SAR4 to come out, but it may be a long wait.

 

[BarberFobic1992]

Ugh. Not this again. The poor horse is dead, already!

If you like a thick edge, use it. If you like a thinner one, go for that. Get out there, use your knife, take some pics, and report back to us on what worked, what didn't and why.

All the best,

- Mike

+1, this is a waste of potentially productive time.

 

[Ramm9]

If you're planing on stripping your SAR5, expect a lot of ugly underneath. It's not like some other Busses that have a nice bead blast finish bellow coating. The convexed bevel has CNC grind lines and the flats are covered with dimples, including a strip along the top, it's not quite a full convexed grind, it's more like a very tall saber grind with a convexed bevel. The dimples take absolutely forever to sand out by hand, I wouldnt even bother without a belt grinder.

Here's a pic of a stripped SAR5 showing some dimples and the balance point.

 

[theonew]

Steel-Junky, why not just go with a double extra super-duty edge and put a 90 degree included angle on it. That too can be sharpened to shave hair and it will be nearly impossible to damage :thumbup:

 

[Ebbtide]

Steel-Junky, why not just go with a double extra super-duty edge and put a 90 degree included angle on it. That too can be sharpened to shave hair and it will be nearly impossible to damage :thumbup:

Get two and you could lash them to your boot soles and have survival skates

 

[DOC-CANADA]

Steel-Junky,

Congratulations on your new knife. I hope it serves you long and well. :thumbup:

Don't own any Busses yet, maybe one day. Two that I think are interesting are the Badger Attack (nice one, Jake) and the BAD. Pretty knives - ugly bank balance

Doc

 

[j williams]

Thanks Doc, I am happy with it. Its one of my favorite Busses. I primarily carry a Game Warden and a SAK on dayhikes now, and even EDC. If I bring the BATAC, its in my pack, and gets used for the bigger jobs that my GW wont handle, which isnt very many. Truth is, I do pretty well with a small fixed blade. I do like the SAR too, might have to get me one someday....

 

[James_Terrio]

Steel Junky, I don't even see why you ask questions, seems like your mind is already made up. Chris

I've been guilty of this myself.
Cheers, friends!

 

[attej]

... a beefier blade which would support a thicker edge has a million an one uses that a little thin whispy blade does not.

Just out of curiosity, what advantages does a significantly thicker blade have over a "normal", lets say puukko-style knife's, thickness?

 

[Ankar Sheng]

Steel Junky, I know you've told us "bushcraft people" a MILLION times, but I dont think anyone asked for your opinion once. Although it was clear from the description of the cut in my first post that I wasnt talking about chopping or batoning, for some reason you just can't seem to get away from that, but even then you're wrong. Thin edges chop better. There's a reason felling axes have thin sharp edges and not "beefy" ones, they cut deeper with less resistance. As for splitting, that has very little to do with the edge and everything to do with the wedge like profile of the blade. The reason for thicker edges is to overcome the limitations of steel. It's pretty obvious you have very little experience actually using these tools because if you had this would all be self evident and wouldn't need explaining to you, and if you've actually done any of these tasks you say you need to be able to do you'd realize that half of the ones you listed involve 'carving'.
You've proven to be condescending, ignorant and very conceited, and frankly I'm through wasting my time reading your erroneous opinions which I'm sure you'll force down us "bushcraft people's" throats another million times.

Here's a pic of a stripped SAR5 showing some dimples and the balance point.

And with the scales on the balance point is another 3/4" farther back, right behind the tube fastener. Cant help but LOL at people who obsess over chopping with a 5" handle heavy knife.

 

[Ramm9]

And with the scales on the balance point is another 3/4" farther back, right behind the tube fastener. Cant help but LOL at people who obsess over chopping with a 5" handle heavy knife.

Right, which means removing the scales and cord wrapping the handle will not change the handle heavy profile.

If someone wanted this blade to primarily chop I think they would have to go with a hidden tang micarta by grinding the handle down to a narrow rod.

I'm still working on the knife in the photo so it would be helpful to know, how far forward did you bring the balance when you cut out the two holes in the handle on your SAR5?

 

[VTguy]

Steel Junky, I know you've told us "bushcraft people" a MILLION times, but I dont think anyone asked for your opinion once. Although it was clear from the description of the cut in my first post that I wasnt talking about chopping or batoning, for some reason you just can't seem to get away from that, but even then you're wrong. Thin edges chop better. There's a reason felling axes have thin sharp edges and not "beefy" ones, they cut deeper with less resistance. As for splitting, that has very little to do with the edge and everything to do with the wedge like profile of the blade. The reason for thicker edges is to overcome the limitations of steel. It's pretty obvious you have very little experience actually using these tools because if you had this would all be self evident and wouldn't need explaining to you, and if you've actually done any of these tasks you say you need to be able to do you'd realize that half of the ones you listed involve 'carving'.
You've proven to be condescending, ignorant and very conceited, and frankly I'm through wasting my time reading your erroneous opinions which I'm sure you'll force down us "bushcraft people's" throats another million times.
.

Steel Junky has quite a history of coming to this board to try a point out our "ignorance" and inform us the knowledge we have gathered over our years and years in the woods is worthless because it is at odds with his superior knowlege. Usually when he come and asks a question he already has his mind made up about the answer. Remember when he came to tell us that Busse was the ultimate knife for bush craft? Or rather "ask" why we didn't consider Busse the ultimate bushcrafting knife. There are many people like this in the world the best thing to do is just smile nod and ignore every thing they say, getting upset or trying to educate them is a waste of time, you can't fill a closed mind.

This looks like a great knife however I am quite sure that is a Scrap Yard logo not Busse (I prefer SY anyways:thumbup

 

[Ankar Sheng]

Right, which means removing the scales and cord wrapping the handle will not change the handle heavy profile.

If someone wanted this blade to primarily chop I think they would have to go with a hidden tang micarta by grinding the handle down to a narrow rod.

I'm still working on the knife in the photo so it would be helpful to know, how far forward did you bring the balance when you cut out the two holes in the handle on your SAR5?

After cutting the holes and cutting off the butt just past the lanyard hole the balance is right on the front edge of the forward most fastener as opposed to the back edge like before. But I also ground most of the swedge off and polishing out the dimples probably took a decent amount of material off so that kind of brought the balance point backwards again. I was just happy to make it lighter.

 

[Steel-Junky]

Steel-Junky, why not just go with a double extra super-duty edge and put a 90 degree included angle on it. That too can be sharpened to shave hair and it will be nearly impossible to damage :thumbup:

You're funny. Not really.

 

[Steel-Junky]

Steel-Junky,

Congratulations on your new knife. I hope it serves you long and well. :thumbup:

Don't own any Busses yet, maybe one day. Two that I think are interesting are the Badger Attack (nice one, Jake) and the BAD. Pretty knives - ugly bank balance

Doc

Yeah... they ding the wallet up a little. But man are they worth it.

 

[Steel-Junky]

Just out of curiosity, what advantages does a significantly thicker blade have over a "normal", lets say puukko-style knife's, thickness?

Prying for one. The ability to endure more stress.

 

[runningboar]

Nevermind.

 

[Steel-Junky]

SJ- bro, im not trying to come off as a dick, but you come off as very confrontational to guys offering you their personal opinions. I dont know if you see you are doing it, but you are. Why all the hate twoards bushcrafters? Have you read Bush Craft? Its not all about carving little wooden ducks and soldiers. It seems like to me, if you have no experiance with a convex edge, as you have stated, you dont know enough to make an accurate comparison. The guys who do have experiance with both V grinds and convex, are just offering up their impressions and opinions. Take em as they are. :thumbup:

You're not a dick. Just stating your opinon, and I respect that. What I have found in this forum is that 90% of the folks here are nice knowledgable people. Easy to get along with and much like myself I think. But there is a small percentage that take this bushcraft thing like it's a religion. And if you DARE suggest that the ideas they hold so dear from their favorite little book or bushcraft "Expert" aren't the only way to go... and that they're idea may not be the only valid one... the lash out. They tell you you have no experience, you're not a real outdoorsman, or some other such nonsense. It's almost as if you told a Christian that Jesus wasn't real. And I have no problem scrapping with these types of tightly wound easily upset people. At the end of the day I forget this place exists... for some of them it's the only good thing in their life. So... whatever. No bad feelins with ya bro. I'm told I can be unyielding and straight forward sometimes. It's part of my charm. LOL.